DIY: Output Shaft Seal (Leaky Butt) Fix by The Junkman
#82
Burning Brakes
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#84
Awesome write up Junkman.
On the hex key + vice grips thing -- if you have a box end wrench that matches the size of the hex key, you can slide the wrench on the hex key and apply torque to the wrench as if it were a nut. It's best to keep the box end as close to the fastener you are trying to break free as possible.
On the hex key + vice grips thing -- if you have a box end wrench that matches the size of the hex key, you can slide the wrench on the hex key and apply torque to the wrench as if it were a nut. It's best to keep the box end as close to the fastener you are trying to break free as possible.
#88
Melting Slicks
Great post! I'm glad I found it because I just detected a leak on the driver's side of mine, just like described here, and I was already worried about having to find where to take it to fix it... Now I'm willing to give it a try
I have a couple of questions and will appreciate any help you guys can give me. It's in relation to the torque specifications listed by Junkman in his first post for all fasteners Please, excuse my ignorance, I'm not an expert, but I'm willing to learn
Three of the items in the table do not list a single torque specification. Instead a 3-pass process is shown and I haven't been able to figure out what do they mean in each case:
Thanks in advance for your help.
I have a couple of questions and will appreciate any help you guys can give me. It's in relation to the torque specifications listed by Junkman in his first post for all fasteners Please, excuse my ignorance, I'm not an expert, but I'm willing to learn
Three of the items in the table do not list a single torque specification. Instead a 3-pass process is shown and I haven't been able to figure out what do they mean in each case:
- Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Stud Nut
- First Pass: 20 N·m
- Second Pass: 3 ½ flats
- Third Pass: 55 N·m
- Outer Tie Rod End Stud Nut
- First Pass: 20 N·m
- Second Pass: 160°
- Third Pass: 45 N·m
- Upper Control Arm Ball Joint Stud Nut
- First Pass: 20 N·m
- Second Pass: 250°
- Third Pass: 55 N·m
Thanks in advance for your help.
#89
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
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Great post! I'm glad I found it because I just detected a leak on the driver's side of mine, just like described here, and I was already worried about having to find where to take it to fix it... Now I'm willing to give it a try
I have a couple of questions and will appreciate any help you guys can give me. It's in relation to the torque specifications listed by Junkman in his first post for all fasteners Please, excuse my ignorance, I'm not an expert, but I'm willing to learn
Three of the items in the table do not list a single torque specification. Instead a 3-pass process is shown and I haven't been able to figure out what do they mean in each case:
Thanks in advance for your help.
I have a couple of questions and will appreciate any help you guys can give me. It's in relation to the torque specifications listed by Junkman in his first post for all fasteners Please, excuse my ignorance, I'm not an expert, but I'm willing to learn
Three of the items in the table do not list a single torque specification. Instead a 3-pass process is shown and I haven't been able to figure out what do they mean in each case:
- Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Stud Nut
- First Pass: 20 N·m
- Second Pass: 3 ½ flats
- Third Pass: 55 N·m
- Outer Tie Rod End Stud Nut
- First Pass: 20 N·m
- Second Pass: 160°
- Third Pass: 45 N·m
- Upper Control Arm Ball Joint Stud Nut
- First Pass: 20 N·m
- Second Pass: 250°
- Third Pass: 55 N·m
Thanks in advance for your help.
#90
Melting Slicks
Flats refers to the six flat sides to the hexagon shape of the nut or bolt head...so, he means rotate it 3 and 1/2 flats after you have achieved the 20 N.m with your torque wrench, then take it to the last value. I am not sure if you wait a specific time between each operation, but the intent is to have the mating components equilibrate over a period of time.
I guess the other 2 examples in which they use degrees what they mean is to rotate the wrench to complete the given angle, after the first torque value is achieved, and then take it to the last value, right?
Thanks for your help.
#91
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
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So that's what it was!... I was going crazy trying to figure out what they meant by "flats"
I guess the other 2 examples in which they use degrees what they mean is to rotate the wrench to complete the given angle, after the first torque value is achieved, and then take it to the last value, right?
Thanks for your help.
I guess the other 2 examples in which they use degrees what they mean is to rotate the wrench to complete the given angle, after the first torque value is achieved, and then take it to the last value, right?
Thanks for your help.
BTW, where the heck is that degree symbol on my keyboard????????????
#92
Melting Slicks
The degree symbol can be created by using a little trick. First make sure the "Num Lock" is active in your keyboard, then while pressing the "Alt" key you have to type 167 in the numeric keypad. The symbol appears when the ALT key is released, after the number has been entered. You can use this method to enter other ASCII symbols too if you know their codes.
#95
bump. I think I have this problem. Is there a difference between this (output shaft seal leak) and the rear differential leak? I cant seem to differentiate between the two.
I also heard it could be just the car "venting" after a long run. I got under it and can't diagnose the problem. I don't think it's venting, because I have gear fluid spilled all over the suspension and the rear wall fascia. And I don't think street cruising and doing 70 on a highway counts as a "long run".. even though I wish it was just venting..
I also heard it could be just the car "venting" after a long run. I got under it and can't diagnose the problem. I don't think it's venting, because I have gear fluid spilled all over the suspension and the rear wall fascia. And I don't think street cruising and doing 70 on a highway counts as a "long run".. even though I wish it was just venting..
#96
Melting Slicks
#97
Safety Car
Question: While using the seal installer, did you not have enough room to use some sort of extension to be able to reach in and hit it? I was thinking of something like a wooden dowel for example. Maybe 1" or 1 1/4" diameter and however long needed to let you do the hammer swinging where you have more room.