Battery disconnect switch?
#1
Instructor
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Battery disconnect switch?
I got a new daily driver in April and since then my '03 coupe's battery has completely drained. I'm wondering if anyone else has installed a battery disconnect switch on their C5 to avoid this problem. I found a thread on this topic with regard to older vettes, but I'm obviously keen to hear people's thoughts on this with regard to newer vettes.
What kind do you recommend?
Thanks!
What kind do you recommend?
Thanks!
#3
Melting Slicks
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I dont have one on my vette, but do have a dis connect on my 69 Camaro. It just hooks up to the positive side of the battery and you turn the **** to connect or dis connect the battery. It works well and is easy. You can get them at almost any parts store.
#4
Race Director
If you use a disconnect switch, you lose all of your memory functions..maybe that doesn't concern you. FYI, you can simply disconnect the negative cable and accomplish the same thing.
If you want to insure you maintain full battery charge (and battery life) and maintain your memory functions, then a float maintenance charger is the best option. You can leave it connected full time w/o any concerns. They have internal fail safes to protect your pride and joy.
Most prefer the BATTERY TENDER PLUS or CTEK to keep their battery fully charged during hibernation periods.
Or you can use a hot rod batter disconnect switch like this one. It will completely disconnect the battery, but a small lead wire and fuse will allow full memory functions to be maintained. Should anyone attempt to start the car w/o throwing the hidden micro toggle switch, it will blow the fuse.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...yes-or-no.html
If you want to insure you maintain full battery charge (and battery life) and maintain your memory functions, then a float maintenance charger is the best option. You can leave it connected full time w/o any concerns. They have internal fail safes to protect your pride and joy.
Most prefer the BATTERY TENDER PLUS or CTEK to keep their battery fully charged during hibernation periods.
Or you can use a hot rod batter disconnect switch like this one. It will completely disconnect the battery, but a small lead wire and fuse will allow full memory functions to be maintained. Should anyone attempt to start the car w/o throwing the hidden micro toggle switch, it will blow the fuse.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...yes-or-no.html
Last edited by hotwheels57; 07-06-2009 at 05:39 PM.
#6
Race Director
Not at all.
Most leave their hoods unlatched when the battery is being maintained on the charger.
Some, myself included, run the lead wire down through the engine bay. That allows for the hood to be latched.
The float maintenance chargers usually come with two manners to connect to the battery...either temporary alligator clips or permanent ring terminals. There is a short lead from the connections, then a male/female quick disconnect for periods of use.
Just don't forget to disconnect when you want to drive the car. It's happened to a few of us...but, usually only once.
Most leave their hoods unlatched when the battery is being maintained on the charger.
Some, myself included, run the lead wire down through the engine bay. That allows for the hood to be latched.
The float maintenance chargers usually come with two manners to connect to the battery...either temporary alligator clips or permanent ring terminals. There is a short lead from the connections, then a male/female quick disconnect for periods of use.
Just don't forget to disconnect when you want to drive the car. It's happened to a few of us...but, usually only once.
Last edited by hotwheels57; 07-06-2009 at 06:11 PM.
#7
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Should anyone attempt to start the car w/o throwing the hidden micro toggle switch, it will blow the fuse.
The CTEK looks like a good product.
#8
Safety Car
Not at all.
Most leave their hoods unlatched when the battery is being maintained on the charger.
Some, myself included, run the lead wire down through the engine bay. That allows for the hood to be latched.
The float maintenance chargers usually come with two manners to connect to the battery...either temporary alligator clips or permanent ring terminals. There is a short lead from the connections, then a male/female quick disconnect for periods of use.
Just don't forget to disconnect when you want to drive the car. It's happened to a few of us...but, usually only once.
Most leave their hoods unlatched when the battery is being maintained on the charger.
Some, myself included, run the lead wire down through the engine bay. That allows for the hood to be latched.
The float maintenance chargers usually come with two manners to connect to the battery...either temporary alligator clips or permanent ring terminals. There is a short lead from the connections, then a male/female quick disconnect for periods of use.
Just don't forget to disconnect when you want to drive the car. It's happened to a few of us...but, usually only once.
[IMG][/IMG]
Dont bother any more, but believe me, I could see myself doing it when it was new
#9
Safety Car
#10
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I just received my CTEK 7200, but attempting to connect the cables with the eyelet terminals to the battery has me wanting to scream. Am I wrong in assuming all C5's have the same battery: terminals on the side and connecting cables with the plastic ring & bolt on them?
Problem 1: The rubber molding around the CTEK eyelet terminals interfere with the ring on the battery cable. You can't sandwich the molding between the cable ring and the battery terminal.
Problem 2: The eyelet holes are too small to fit the bolt on the battery cable through.
Did anyone else encounter these problems? Any answers? My first instinct was to cut off the molding and drill the holes bigger. CTEK's instructions are of no help.
Thanks.
Problem 1: The rubber molding around the CTEK eyelet terminals interfere with the ring on the battery cable. You can't sandwich the molding between the cable ring and the battery terminal.
Problem 2: The eyelet holes are too small to fit the bolt on the battery cable through.
Did anyone else encounter these problems? Any answers? My first instinct was to cut off the molding and drill the holes bigger. CTEK's instructions are of no help.
Thanks.