[Z06] Need some help/input here
#1
Need some help/input here
I have a 2002 Z06 with a G5x3 cam and running on a stock clutch at about 40k on the odometer. The clutch crashes hard and has done it since I have owned the vehicle.
Now my question is, which I have searched and searched about, what do I need to replace? The clutch is about done anyway but I can hit gears hard still but it grips at the VERy top of the pedal...well until the clutch crashes. The car dyoed 457 rwhp....Should I get a Centerforce Dual Friction like I was looking at? As for the clutch crash, should I get new hydraulics? Do the whole drill out method? Where do I get these parts? Cost?
Sorry for all the questions but after hours of reading threads, saving links, and so on I decided to just post and start a new thread.
Thanks in advance.
Now my question is, which I have searched and searched about, what do I need to replace? The clutch is about done anyway but I can hit gears hard still but it grips at the VERy top of the pedal...well until the clutch crashes. The car dyoed 457 rwhp....Should I get a Centerforce Dual Friction like I was looking at? As for the clutch crash, should I get new hydraulics? Do the whole drill out method? Where do I get these parts? Cost?
Sorry for all the questions but after hours of reading threads, saving links, and so on I decided to just post and start a new thread.
Thanks in advance.
#3
Race Director
I would go with a twin disc. Your clutch is toast. I have the exedy twin disc and it does take some getting used to, especially coming from a stock 02 Z06 clutch.
#4
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Dallas Ft Worth Texas
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i would do new slave, possiably new master, and a remote bleeder for sure!, i got my remote bleeder from LAPD, and I'm so glad i went that route, makes life so much easier to bleed the system and to keep fresh fluid in the car.
good luck!
good luck!
#7
#8
Melting Slicks
- Slave
- Remote Bleeder
- New Pilot bearing (inside Crank)
- New Clutch/Pressure Plate
- INSPECT THE REAR ENGINE COVER FOR ANY LEAKS!!!
I did the drill mod on mine while I had it all apart. Easy to do, just search on google it can't hurt.
I also have the Textralia OZ700 and I have the Tick adjustable master. It's fun to drive with the release point just a couple inches off the floor. I would highly recommend the Tick.
If you are doing this yourself, take the time to take apart your torque tube and inspect the rubber bushings inside for cracks. Also a good time to replace the tranny/diff fluids since you have to pull it out from under the car.
- Remote Bleeder
- New Pilot bearing (inside Crank)
- New Clutch/Pressure Plate
- INSPECT THE REAR ENGINE COVER FOR ANY LEAKS!!!
I did the drill mod on mine while I had it all apart. Easy to do, just search on google it can't hurt.
I also have the Textralia OZ700 and I have the Tick adjustable master. It's fun to drive with the release point just a couple inches off the floor. I would highly recommend the Tick.
If you are doing this yourself, take the time to take apart your torque tube and inspect the rubber bushings inside for cracks. Also a good time to replace the tranny/diff fluids since you have to pull it out from under the car.
#9
If crashing hard means it stays on the floor you will get mixed opinions from people saying you either need to use the Ranger method or you should replace the slave cylinder and/or clutch. Obviously you will run into the same issues if you just replace the slave since you are making good power so you might as well change everything while you are there.
I used the Ranger method probably 15 times before my clutch first stuck to the floor. The first time it happened was a week after getting a cam and I have repeated the ranger method 10 more times since. I gave up and opted to replace the clutch and here is what I ordered:
Centerforce dual friction 12" clutch
New Master cylinder and slave cylinder
New pilot bearing and throwout bearing
Remote bleeder
I used the Ranger method probably 15 times before my clutch first stuck to the floor. The first time it happened was a week after getting a cam and I have repeated the ranger method 10 more times since. I gave up and opted to replace the clutch and here is what I ordered:
Centerforce dual friction 12" clutch
New Master cylinder and slave cylinder
New pilot bearing and throwout bearing
Remote bleeder
#10
Melting Slicks
I would recommend the Tick adjustable master instead of the little stock unit. Don't know what the cost is on the stock unit but the Tick is about $330 shipped. The throwout bearing is a part of the slave cylinder btw...