Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts
09-01-2010, 09:12 PM
#43
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Heres a THREE RIB unit:
Non three rib
Non three rib
09-03-2010, 02:54 PM
#44
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: East Oakland CA
Posts: 2,367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mine looks like the one on the first pic. i thought the 3 rib was for '01 and up?
anyways from this quote i can use a brace if i have a 1 rib diff
anyways from this quote i can use a brace if i have a 1 rib diff
Both the 2-series and 3-series cases come from the manufacturer with either the 1 or 3-rib mounting flange reinforments. Both types will and have been broken under high power/low gear ratio applications.
We have also seen where the Z06 case has come with either a 1 or 3-rib mounting flange reinforment at random also, so there certainly is nothing special about that case itself. In the early model cases, it was completely random as to what type of case one received from the manufacturer, no matter what gear ratio was O.E. installed, but as of 2003 and up, ALL 2 and 3-series cases come standard with 3-rib mounting flange reinformant from the manufacturer no matter what gear ratio is installed from the manufacturer. For 95% of the market, either version suits their needs just fine without any negative issues what-so-ever, but for the hardcore drag racers, it's recommended to opt for the later version, as they need all the help/strength thay can get at the track.
However, there is no strength difference between the two types when our differential strut is is utilized for added driveline rigidity because the strut bracing assembly/bracketry removes the severe structural loading from the differential/transmission case at that crack-prone mounting flange area anyway and spreads the shock loading across/evenly to the strongest areas of the entire driveline, preventing driveline fracture. These differences are one of the reasons why we developed the M6/M12 and A4 differential strut kits in the first place. Necessity is often the driver of invention...
Best Regards,
DTE
We have also seen where the Z06 case has come with either a 1 or 3-rib mounting flange reinforment at random also, so there certainly is nothing special about that case itself. In the early model cases, it was completely random as to what type of case one received from the manufacturer, no matter what gear ratio was O.E. installed, but as of 2003 and up, ALL 2 and 3-series cases come standard with 3-rib mounting flange reinformant from the manufacturer no matter what gear ratio is installed from the manufacturer. For 95% of the market, either version suits their needs just fine without any negative issues what-so-ever, but for the hardcore drag racers, it's recommended to opt for the later version, as they need all the help/strength thay can get at the track.
However, there is no strength difference between the two types when our differential strut is is utilized for added driveline rigidity because the strut bracing assembly/bracketry removes the severe structural loading from the differential/transmission case at that crack-prone mounting flange area anyway and spreads the shock loading across/evenly to the strongest areas of the entire driveline, preventing driveline fracture. These differences are one of the reasons why we developed the M6/M12 and A4 differential strut kits in the first place. Necessity is often the driver of invention...
Best Regards,
DTE
09-03-2010, 02:57 PM
#45
Corvette C5 Enthusiast
Didn't even know that would be possible.
09-04-2010, 12:04 PM
#46
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Frederick Maryland
Posts: 2,966
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
6 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
The 3 rib is stronger by design but when you have wheel hop, I have seen broken cases both on the 1 rib and 3 rib cases.
I personally would start with a 3 rib case for any performance builds.
09-04-2010, 02:23 PM
#47
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: East Oakland CA
Posts: 2,367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
would i be better off if i get the parts micro polished?
09-05-2010, 10:26 AM
#48
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Farmington CT
Posts: 6,125
Received 160 Likes
on
125 Posts
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Rick, good meeting you at the americanracingheaders.com compound last week
I swapped the C6Z short and long shafts into a diff 2 weeks ago
pretty basic, just need a press for the short side
I have done a bunch of 300M's in the past
great info here!!!
I swapped the C6Z short and long shafts into a diff 2 weeks ago
pretty basic, just need a press for the short side
I have done a bunch of 300M's in the past
great info here!!!
09-06-2010, 11:47 AM
#50
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Frederick Maryland
Posts: 2,966
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
6 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Micro polishing the parts does help if you are looking for the last ounce of performance but the cost doesn't off-set gain IMHO. Only part I have micro polished are the gear sets.
05-09-2011, 10:11 PM
#56
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2008
Location: Clarksville TN
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-03-2011, 02:40 AM
#58
Help.
I think this is an upgrade I may need. I have an 03Z and the diff seems to have way too much play. The left side cover is leaking pretty bad as well (not the axle seal).
When I lift the car, put it in gear and then turn one of the rear wheels, there seems to be way too much play. It goes "clank clank" as I wobble the wheel left and right (the wheel turns about 2-3 inches in each direction). Is this normal? Or will I be replacing the diff soon?
If I do need to replace the diff, I would like to upgrade as mentioned in this thread, but I don't have the tools necessary. Any recommendations for a shop in San Diego CA that could do this for me?
Thanks in advance.
When I lift the car, put it in gear and then turn one of the rear wheels, there seems to be way too much play. It goes "clank clank" as I wobble the wheel left and right (the wheel turns about 2-3 inches in each direction). Is this normal? Or will I be replacing the diff soon?
If I do need to replace the diff, I would like to upgrade as mentioned in this thread, but I don't have the tools necessary. Any recommendations for a shop in San Diego CA that could do this for me?
Thanks in advance.
10-19-2011, 10:34 AM
#59
Intermediate
Member Since: Sep 2011
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before you spend a lot of cash and wont be able to use the parts that you get,,,,,I believe that you will have to properly set up the pinion and differential side bearings if you replace those parts!!!!!
. Thats what prevented me form up-grading that portion of the rear-end. It takes special alignment tools and knowledge to do the pinion. Its not a simple procedure if you don't know what your doing. Google that Kent Moore alignment tool that listed in the post and you will see whats involved.
" Here is the calculation on C5 pinion shim setup:
B1 = pinion & drivers side measurement (need Kent Moore tool J42168)
B = 0.197"
B - B1 = B2
A1 = numbers on pinion gear
A = nominal value of 4.055"
A1 - A = B3
B2 + B3 = pinion shim thickness "
Bill
. Thats what prevented me form up-grading that portion of the rear-end. It takes special alignment tools and knowledge to do the pinion. Its not a simple procedure if you don't know what your doing. Google that Kent Moore alignment tool that listed in the post and you will see whats involved.
" Here is the calculation on C5 pinion shim setup:
B1 = pinion & drivers side measurement (need Kent Moore tool J42168)
B = 0.197"
B - B1 = B2
A1 = numbers on pinion gear
A = nominal value of 4.055"
A1 - A = B3
B2 + B3 = pinion shim thickness "
Bill
Bill, do you have any new info regarding setting the pinion carrier? My stock carrier needs replacement & I want to upgrade.
10-19-2011, 10:57 AM
#60
Burning Brakes
So on this type build, if you want 3:73 or 3:90, it can be done when using aftermarket ring/pinion? If so I would need ring and pinion for a C5 or C6? (The car is a '01 with factory 3:42)