jraschke11

So, lets just say... theoretically... if somebody were to use a green scotch pad (basic kitchen sponge with yellow sponge on one side and green pad on the other) on the exterior of their car, how bad would that be to repair?

An average amount of force was used, not very light bit it doesn't look like its through the clear coat quite yet, thought I may be wrong.

I used a good amount of Maguiars Scratch-X and got little results. It shined up the area and made it less noticable, but you can still see a thousand scratches.

Any suggestions? I have plenty of elbow grease, but don't own a buffer.

HarryO

One of the Forum vendors in the Chicago area is Jasons Auto Spa, I have seen him bring back damaged paint. He is a gtreat guy and would would probabbly tell you how to do it.

beaners

Well its hard to say.. Scotch brite pads usually have a grit#, but not certain for dish wash ones. I would go to a auto body supply store and buy some 2000# grit wet sand paper and good compound, lightly sand the area and rub away.

How did this happen???

How large a area???

P.S It would be ALOT easier with a buffer of some sort....

Vetteman Jack

Take it to a trusted body shop and let them try buffing the scratches out. Hopefully they are not deep enough to result in buffing through the clear coat.

dougbfresh

Wetsand with 2000 grit and buff assuming there is enough clearcoat left.

jraschke11

How large an area? Half the rear deck lid, the entire rear passenger quarterpanel, and the painted part of the B pillar between the passenger window and rear window.

What happened was I bought a brand new Coverking cover, just the basic grey one. I washed my 2002 Z06 and then put it on a trailer. The next morning I had to leave (was moving from NC to Michigan) and it was cloudy outside. The humidity in NC is always around 100%, so the car was soaked when I covered it. I didn't have the time or resources to dry it since I was leaving from the parking lot of work. I pulled the cover out of the box and covered the car nice and snug.

When I got to Michigan and uncovered the car, it was practically black. Covered bumper to bumper in what I can only partially describe as "ground in carbon" if you can imagine that. It was especially bad on any corners or any place where the cover was snug against the car. It would not come off with any sort of standard cleaner, but would mostly come off with my fingernail. And this is the entire car we are talking about. I was getting some of it using a blue non-abrasive scotch kitchen sponge, but some really unruly parts were annoying me, it was the last panel of the car, and I was tired and sore from spending 3 hours washing the rest of it, so I used the green scotch pad. I didn't really think it was that bad since it was still wet and covered in waxy soap.

I still have no idea what the substance is, but it still covers most of the car, although very light in most spots.

flynbyu2

After what you describe, it's possible that the clear coat is comprimised. The clear coat is only 1.8 to 2.2 mils thick (.0018" - .0022") so there isn't a lot of material there to begin with.

I would buy yourself an inexpensive buffer (you'll use it again down the road) and try some Adam's Swirl Remover. If it doesn't come out, a body shop will have to repair it and clear coat it.

BHRZ06

Possibly saveable but i would reclear the car if i was in your situation. Look at it on the bright side the preps done j/k

beaners

From what you have stated It sounds like its coming off. The car should have enough clear to get a good buff. But where you Cleaned it with the scotch brite is a different matter Green =600 grit. Since you possibly will have to paint that area anyway, I would as I already stated and rub with 3M Perfect-it Part#6085. That stuff is amazing on scratches..

Jistari

If I were in over my head and large areas of the car were effected, I would just take it to a good detailer.

Believe me, they do hundreds of cars a month, they have the equipment and experience. If you have a decent one near by bring it in and see what they say.

By me it would be like $150 and the whole car would be done a lot better than I could get it.

Good luck

ALLEGRO

Here are the three things you need to do:

Cut, Buff and Pray

egrand333

They should put a warning on those type of scotch pads. I have no idea what there even good for exept maybe a frying pan that was left on to long with burned on crap on it. I bought some about a year ago for regular dishwashing and couldn't believe how bad they scratched my drinking glasses. My friend used one to clean grime off his windshield and scratched it so bad it had to be replaced. You may be able to remove your scratches if done by someone who knows what there doing. Live and learn! Good luck.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

It sounds like its going to be alot of work and at a heavy cost with average good details like this going for 500.00 or more bucks. Heres what I might suggest:

1. Wash the Car (use a good soap with lots of lubrication). Consider presoaking the entire car with P21S Total Wash First to try and loosen the black soot. If you need something heavier to remove it look into chemical based paint cleansers and solvents versus abrasive kitchen pads which mar finish immediately. (tar removers often work well, and I keep a can of 3M Wax/Adhesive Remover at all times at home)

2. Clay the vehicle --- this should also remove alot of the surface contaminents and you can toss clay at a relatively low cost. Its easy and quick learning, just remember to use the clay lube and kneed claybar often.

3. Polishing --- you are going to need to explore purchasing a buffer, pads, and some polishes to remove the swirls and scratches. As long as your finger nails cannot decifier them it should remove them or reduce to a more acceptable level. I highly suggest a random orbital buffer (PC-XP, Griots, Megs G110, or Flex 3401) and polishes. (Menzerna SIP and Nano / Megs 105/205). -- you can see videos in our tool bar under detailing how-to's as desired, its rather easy but time consuming

Dont worry about the wax or sealant, you can use any, once you have the finish to your desired level and considered repaired. For about the price of one good detailing session you should be able to have items that can be used time and again. If you feel the scratches with fingernails, immediately consult a professional or body shop because wet-sanding and refinishing might be needed but be prepared for a heavy expense.

Wish you all the best ....

tlc0706

BTW: Killrwheels knows car paint....

Old Man in a C

DO NOT let this post get to OT!

jraschke11

LoL...this is all theoretical we know that right?

Anyway, none of these hypothetical scratches are discernible by fingernail/touch, so the owner of said car might be able to get most of them out by hand...

Bill Vett

If you were closer I'd lend you my buffer, pads and 3M Finness it II or Perfect it II. Doing it by hand will not yeild the results of a RO buffer.

steve8

Hate to kick you when you're down, but what the heck are you covering a wet car for, and then with a cheap cover?
Elbow grease will definitely not cut it.
At the least you will need a buffer (everyone should own one). I am very happy with my flex.
Wash, clay, wash, machine polish, protect.
Wet sanding if needed should be done by someone who really knows what they are doing. Same goes for a rotary polisher. A rotary in the right hands can accomplish amazing results.
Good luck.

madmatt9471

A orbitabal polisher and some ADAMS swirl and scratch remover - there are plenty of products that can repair swirl mark made by a BRILLO pad!

Just be patient and it'll look good as new It's just the clear coat that is scratched and it can be repaired or buffed out!

Thanks,Matt

Jet-Jock

Generally, one uses those scotch bright pads to scuff the clear coat if you intent to re-shoot the clear. It's about like taking 2000 grit paper to the clear. The density of these pads are great because of the consistent scuffing you get. It's the product I use just prior to the application of paint material (granted followed with chemical preps). With enough pressure and concentration in an area, the clear will be removed and you will start into the base coat.

If you have any sort of damage like that, there is no amount of buffing that will restore the clear. Sure you might polish things up, but the clear coat is gone and it will deteriorate quickly. If it was at that level, it will be obvious because the clear gives a base coat the depth of color.

Can ya post some pictures of the hypothetical damage?

Assuming what you have described, you will probably will be making an appointment at a good quality body shop to have those panels re-scuffed and re-shot with clear coat.

Many folks freak on contaminated water when washing their Vette's as it introduces swirl marks. What you described is the nightmare some folks worry about.

Sometimes, light scuffing of the clear is tolerated when repairing say runs in the clear. They can be sanded then scuffed and then polished. But one has to be really careful about how much work is applied to the clear, it is not that thick. The 3M Finesse-It II described above with a wool pad will probably be the first step followed by less aggressive products like a swirl mark remover and a series of polishing pads. Then re-polish.

Hope you get this resolved to your satisfaction.