spoolin7

i searched and found tons of headlight threads, but none specific to this issue. i installed HIDs a couple of months ago and everything has been fine up until about 2 weeks ago. whenever i shut the lights off, both headlights go down, then the driver's side one comes back up about an inch and a half. i usually just pop the hood and manually make it go back down, but it's getting really annoying.

i really don't think it has anything to do with the HIDs since they were fine for a few weeks. also when i turn them back on, the light will go back down before it goes up. it's like the motor stops shortly after it's supposed to

STALION

Have you replaced the stock motor cog (gear)? It could be a sign that some of the teeth are worn. If not, then you should consider replacing them with the metal version.

spoolin7

i haven't personally replaced anything, but we've only had the car for 5 months.

MSG C5

When you installed the HIDs did you change any of the settings after manually adjusted them up or down? Was it a simple bulb swap/ballast install or did you completely remove the housings.

I installed the ACA housings/HID kit a few weeks ago and have not had any issues, however I did need to adjust the body colored light covers as I moved some of the adjustment screws a little when calibrating the light beams.

Sometimes when we start working on a component, it only accelerates an pending repair, such as the OEM nylon gears. I'm no mechanic, however I suspect some of your gear teeth are slipping.

Spoon83

Most likely there are two issues you are experiencing:

1. Worn headlight gears, suggest replacing with the brass versions. Patches has a great write-up on how to change them in the link below:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...orialized.html

2. With the HID install, you may need to purchase a inline resistor, which can be found here:

http://shop.jwmotoring.com/product.s...8&categoryId=4

I would try the inline resistor first personally, since it is cheaper and much easier to install. If that does not solve the problem, then it may be time to change headlight gears...GL

eldudereno

Got to be worn teeth otherwise you would have experienced this scenario straight away after installing your HID's.

JW Motorsports

Sounds like a bad gear.

Do they make a weird machine gun type sound?

MY5THVET

I replaced my gear 3 months ago, every thing was working fine until yesterday, now the drivers side door comes back up after shutting the lights off!

MY5THVET

I just found this link, may be the answer for my problem
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...s-one-out.html

Love this forum!!!!

Chicago1

I can promise you that is your issue is the stop tab is chewed up. There are 2 of them on the driver side. You can use the other temporally until you get a replacement. Also more then likely is when you did the gear swap the adhesive did not make a good seal causing it to come loose again and rattling around causing the issue. I suggest you follow that TSB. Let me know if I'm way off on this thanks

striper

I'm in the process of replacing my gear this weekend. The glue is drying and I'll reinstall the headlight tomorrow. The stops were okay but in one area the teeth were worn down in a groove in the exact shape of the worm gear, causing it to slip.

Go to www.rodneydickman.com to buy the gear kit. He makes the kit and sells them to other vendors.

offroadr

I had the same thing happen to me a while ago, after I replaced the plastic gear with the brass one, I didn't close and secure the gear cover very well. The cover separated from the body, which allowed gear's center shaft to slide around, which in turn allowed the headlight lift arm to slide past the stops. Chewed up the plastic cap a little before I could pull the headlight out again and redo everything, but it's a simple fix. I've got the HID conversion in might stock housing and they aren't the cause of the problem.

MY5THVET

Took my headlite assembly apart today. Chicago1 is right on, the glue failed and the shaft walked out a little. I am going with the t-bat strap across the housing as well as spacing the entire motor towards the middle of the car by using washers,as GM recommends, that way the arm will hit a more solid part of the stop

Chicago1

Glad you got it figured out.

bmkerrdog

I changed the front passenger side blinker bulb about two weeks ago. Headlights were working fine until i replaced the bulb. I went in through the top (through the headlight bezel) to change the bulb. Anyway, a week later I drove the car at night and the driver's side headlight wouldn't open. The light was on, but pop-up no worky.

I checked them again a couple of nights ago, and both lights popped up and activated. I turned them off and both lights closed and deactivated.

The next day I went outside, and both lights are up. I started the car and turned on the lights. The lights illuminated. I turned the lights off and both lights closed and deactivated. I turned the car off.

About ten minutes later, the light on the driver's side popped up on its own (all the way open and not illuminated). This happens now all the time. I manually crank the lights down (even with the car off) and at some point during the day (could be a few minutes or a few hours later) the driver's side headlight will open on its own.

So, what gives? Since the headlight door motors appear to be working fine (no machine gun rattle or noise) I'm assuming a it's an electrical issue. Headlight control module? I haven't replaced any gears on the motors. I do have the old style (bolt on cover) headlight motors so I'll probably inspect the gears this week. Any thoughts?

Chicago1

Definitely check the gears since you have the bolt on covers. I thought maybe you had twilight on but you said you came out and it was open on it's own. SO you already know check the gears and check the tabs. If all is good I would suspect a faulty headlight control module. They can be had for $125 new and they are prone to go out. I had the same issue kinda like yours. The module is located under the passenger side light. Remove the black cover piece and you will see it. There are 2 plugs connected to it. If I where you I would take it out and give the pins a good cleaning and also the connectors. Reinstall and see what happens. I'm not sure if you can test those to see if it's good or bad but sounds like it may be bad.

bmkerrdog

Well, I pulled out the passenger side headlight assembly today. I took your advice Chicago1 and I opened up the gear case on the headlight motor first thing. Not only does my car have the original "old style" motors, but inside was what appeared to be the original gears in perfect working order.

Next I inspected the headlight control module. After removing the module from the assembly, I immediately noticed the back of the module had begun to seperate at the seams where it was glued (one corner only). I decided to pull open the case and take a look inside.

The burnt smell raised the red flag as i opened the case. When I get pictures I will post visual aids of the horror that I found inside. The circuit board was fried and covered with a greenish oxidation all over it. Moisture is the most likely culprit, and the module had probably been shorting out for some time (I just haven't driven the car much at night). So... time to find a replacement. I just hope with the module shorting out it did not surge the headlight motors and burn them up as well.

Chicago1

Glad we got it figured out. It"s just a signal being sent nothing to short the motors. Once you get a new module you will be set.

bmkerrdog

Here is the pics of the bad module. Ordered a new replacement from GMPartshouse.com last night for $220. Should be here late next week.





One corner of the module case had completely seperated and was allowing moisture to get inside.


Nasty stuff.




Time to hurry up and wait.

bmkerrdog

Installed the new control module yesterday. Guess what? I can see your a$$ at night now. LOL! Everything is working great!