It was a pleasure talking with you Pete! Thanks for your call and I'm excited with your involvement! I always felt out of my element somewhat when it came to the mold developement and this project deserves better. Thank You!

Carbon Fiber in the same finish as has been demonstrated by your manufacturer would be ideal! That's my vote!
Owners can choose to paint that to taste or not.

If this tracks the same way other projects we've seen Pete complete we will see developement photos and have some input to the look. We discussed starting with a short-necked version of the turtleneck prototype design C5vetteguy did in fiberglass to workout the details. I agree with Jistari that the bezel looks good exposed from the side and we hope this will achieve the look and fitment we're after. There will need to be some gap around each projector bezel as they adjust individualy and will have to accomodate all vehicle heights and personal adjustment preference. This will take some time and I'd like all to have a chance to at least see and comment on the photos, especially those testers that are already on board.

I too am waiting to hear back from my suppliers and fabrication shop for delivery timeframes. I'll let JW know when I do!!
I have to say to all here, that I'm humbled and just a little proud of how this project has managed to bring together some of this Forum's best vendors and members. Ya, ya; three years in the works it can't help but involve a lot of people, nevertheless, Thank You All, for your input and patience!

 

Count me in for a shroudless or shrouded version, should they become available.

 

I'll put a word in with JW for you...



ya, he cracks me up too!

...working with JW on that.

Doug, those look really good over the TS nose!!
BTW; you've got a keeper when it comes to the shop working on your ride! Your mechanic was a pleasure to talk with!! Good luck with the mods!!

You'll get used to it...

 

The "good" news about this delay is that I got a good year out of my ACAs!

If you get the shroudless version, can the future CF shrouds be purchased separately and fit the shroudless version or will the design be tweaked?

 

I am too Joe! Beats never getting a return call from the composite shop I thought was working all winter on these!!
Thanks for the reminder. We talked about the shortened turtle neck mirroring/covering the rear shoulder of the bezel only. The gaps for adjustment should be smaller/thinner as a result of moving the neck rearward and the differences that will show around the bezel due to any adjustment should optically appear less, too. (I hope...)

 

...that you got from JW, I hope!

Design is done and won't be changing. Shrouds should fit regardless of whether you get them now or later.
I will be supplying shrouds to the testers and that was a condition and understanding when they purchased last summer. This coming GP could have an option to have the shroud included in the price depending on Pete's manufacturer and projector delivery times from Hella. JW and I haven't discussed that yet as I'm still waiting to hear back from Hella.

 

Patches, due to the "sleepy eye" or lower opening arch, does this place additional stress on the already stressed pop-up motors? I have my brass gear set waiting in the wings for when (not if) my OEM nylon gears fail, however from an engineering perspective does this mod cause any additional stress to the gears?

Also, I had to modify the OEM light frames/shells for the ACAs. Can the same frames/shells be re-used or do these Sun Guns have an entirely different light frame/shell?

 

I won't speak for Patches but this (picture below) is a direct bolt-in replacement for the light housing whether OEM or ACA or what ever aftermarket system you might have and shouldn't matter if you've done the "Patches" ACA mod that removes some of the ribbing in the OEM frame...

 

Thanks. I wanted to make sure that my "ribless" frames would work with the Sun Guns.

 

No problems using the ACA frames with these.

Also, these is no additional stress on the motors. The stop point is simply moved lower and they sense the increase in resistance and cut the power at that point just like the stock setup does..

 

Thank you, sir.
I would think this could actually be beneficial to those with gears starting to go bad as this changes the point on the gears where the system comes to a stop and could prolong the life of the gear somewhat...

This also brings up a similar point Pete and I discussed concerning those that have broken the infamous "golden rod" adjuster.
This system will work with a broken adjuster rod, provided you have not stripped the threaded adjuster itself...

 

Less talk.... More WORK!

 

 

Michael, meet Joe on the forum when I was having problems with a turbo system that I had purchased. Since then he has helped me out numerous times and has done all the work on both of my vette's.

If anyone is looking for a corvette perfectionist I highly recommend Joe.
He is located in the St. Petersburg, Florida area and does outstanding work at a reasonable price. His forum handle is turbojoe.

 

Thanks Michael I've been talking to manufacturing and they think they can get it done. They do need the lights to get me a quote on mold cost etc. Just to clarify (lol I posted earlier from my phone and messed things up) But they DO NOT need to be clear coated if we do indeed make them in carbon. They already come with UV protection and normally have a 1 year warranty on fading, cracking, yellowing etc. Just curious, I don't know if they can make them the same as the OEM shroud with the round cutout on the inside for adjustments. Would we be ok with maybe a small opening there for adjustment (we could possibly find a rubber grommet to cover the opening) I just dont think they would want to make a shroud, then have to make a separate round cutout piece that would twist into place like the factory shroud. I know I would be cool with say a nickle size opening there or enough to get a socket in there to adjust the lights. Let me know

 

There really is no need for external adjustment apertures. If the shroud's headlight openings, as manufactured, are centered pretty much vertically and horizontally, all adjustments can be done with the shrouds off.
The stock (goldenrod) adjustments give you gross vertical and horizontal adjustment that will get you at least 90% of the way to a proper alignment. Because the lights themselves are adjustable individually up/down, left/right and fore/aft, these adjusting screws would be used for fine tuning the position of the lights within the shroud openings (turtlenecks). These adjustments are made with the shrouds off, test fit the shrouds, readjust again, until all lights fit as desired within the turtlenecks. The whole process only takes a few minutes. Once aligned, there is no need for readjustments unless the car is lowered or raised.
Anyone who is willing to undertake this conversion, which is really quite easy, shouldn't have a problem with test fitting the shrouds after making minor adjustments to the lights. With this procedure, it isn't necessary to have any additional openings/plugs in the shroud, which should minimize design and manufacturing time (and hence cost). I doubt anyone who installs the Sun Guns will be taking them to a dealer for adjustments, so the factory-type of alignment apertures are really unnecessary for this application.

 

Thanks Pete, The cut-out isn't needed as Mike explained. Is the UV protection in the epoxy? Sounds great...
I have been through the mold process with these several times on my own, albeit learning as I go, so I know the time involved and have realistic expectations. I've ordered your set to get this done.


Thanks Mike! Cold one at Carlise is getting closer...!

I ordered 20 sets from Hella yesterday.
Like Mills used to say...

"Let's Get It On!!"

 

I have adjusted both my OEM lights as well as my ACAs and every time, I removed the shroud to do it just for the ease of full access to the adjustment rods. I lost two of the plastic adjustment hole covers and have now taped the replacements on the inside just to make sure I don't lose them again. I understand GMs reasoning for the adjustment plugs, however I would prefer a shroud that doesn't have them and simply needs to be removed when adjustments (if any) need to be made.

Once aimed, I doubt it would be necessary to have immediate access to the adjustment rods.

 

It seems like forever since this project started. I saw mtndv8's car in Sacramento over a year ago!!! I thought for sure they would be out by now. Is it still the shroud holding these up?

 

Once you have seperate adjusters (up/down left/right) on each projector that work with a simple phillips head screwdriver right from the front (as Mike designed them), you will not likely ever go back to touching the hard to access/use oem adjusters.