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Clear coat peeling question ?

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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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Default Clear coat peeling question ?

I just bought a 2004 and where there was molding on the right side ( after market ) the clear coat is peeling, is this common with Corvette's ? Car was not in a accident to my knowledge (carfax) is there anyway I can stop it from peeling until I get some extra money to have it taken care of in a body shop ? What would it possibly cost me to have the door redone with clear coat ? or at least blended in. Thanks for any help in advance.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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Can you post pics?

Is the clear peeling entirely and exposing the base?

If so, there isn't much you can do bout it, and the entire door will have to be repainted if you want it done right. The base will likely have to be shot again as well (at least in that area), because the base that is exposed from not having clear will fade. CC is like a UV protectant as much as anything else. Depending on how close it is to another panel, it may have to be blendid over on to that to make the color match and that entire panel will have to be CC too.

What kind of moulding? Was it the body side mouldings that come as an option or something else?
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Is your car white or gray?

If it is the gray, I suspect it is metallic. I see the lines you are talking about in the pictures from your profile. If this is the case, the fix will have to take place on all three panels - rear fender, door, and front fender..on both sides I assume. A good painter could keep the rocker panel from getting involved, but if it has some road rash (most of them do if the car has any miles), I'd go ahead and knock that out too. Less stuff to mask around.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by J S Machine
Is your car white or gray?

If it is the gray, I suspect it is metallic. I see the lines you are talking about in the pictures from your profile. If this is the case, the fix will have to take place on all three panels - rear fender, door, and front fender..on both sides I assume. A good painter could keep the rocker panel from getting involved, but if it has some road rash (most of them do if the car has any miles), I'd go ahead and knock that out too. Less stuff to mask around.
Just tried to take pics but right know to much glare with sun will try later and yes it is spiral gray metalllic, and molding was just a cheap molding, that is why I removed it, for some reason it looks like it was sprayed while cheap molding was on, that is why it was lighter under molding because other wise it would normally be darker under molding. you can feel the clear coat edge where the molding ended. I'm trying to find out from the previous owner why it was done but so far no luck locating owner any suggestions there ?
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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If you look you will see the grass reflection at the top after that is the asphalt drive way then go down and if you look close you will see a straight line where the molding was then below that is the clear coat peel. thanks for any help and how much would something like this cost to repair.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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Could the clear that is pealing be the clear from spot repaint? Generally, when the clear peals, the base coat is uncovered which is very dull. I don't see that.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mez
Could the clear that is pealing be the clear from spot repaint? Generally, when the clear peals, the base coat is uncovered which is very dull. I don't see that.
hard to explain it is a lighter gray where it has peeled and not quite as shinny
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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by looking at the pics standard body shop procedure is to repaint and clear the fender and door.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by billmiller8
hard to explain it is a lighter gray where it has peeled and not quite as shinny
Base coat is real dull. From the pictures, it is impossible to tell if the OEM clear is pealing or the repaint clear. A body shop could tell for sure.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 12:10 AM
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I got your pm, and I see the pics here too. You definitely have an issue here, and I can't tell you exactly what it is without putting my hand on it and actually seeing it up close. If it has to be redone, it isn't going to be cheap. Just the fact that it is a vette makes it a little more than your average repair. Body / paint guys know this and they will (should) want it to look better than normal anyway.

Best bet is to take it by a small locally owned body shop that doesn't do much work. Most bigger main stream shops are going to specialize in collision repair because that is where the money is. They likely won't want to deal with your car since it is kind of speciwl and may even refer you to a smaller shop.

There is a slight chance that the moulding strips were put on over factory gray base and clear, and then based and cleared at a later date (repaint). If they repair like I say in post 3, it will cost a good bit. I'd say at least $1k.
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