Oil Catch Can .... It really works..
#41
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Maybe you can make your own small one instead of buying a second one. Your main one should catch the majority of mist and oil particles while the second one would catch anything else that gets by. You can possibly use a fuel filter type as they are small enough not to take up any room and can be placed in line with the outgoing hose of the main catch can...just a thought
#42
Burning Brakes
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A double catch can, the first one is a catch can, the second is just a catch can with filter substance so only gas's pass to the intake. Yea, now if I could only find the room in my engine compartment for that second catch can. Try not to block the air flow on the PCV, it needs to flow to take out the extra pressure. Some engines I've seen just put a filter to the atmosphere, run a hose toward the ground (yea illegal, but so is the catch can in California).. Pray they don't stop in high water and suck up dirty street water into their engine...
Last edited by Jesse Asis; 07-04-2012 at 01:28 AM.
#43
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I don't believe the second can is to work in series with the first can. I believe it's supposed to be between the valve cover and the throttle body while the first can is between the valley and the intake manifold.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...s1-engine.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...s1-engine.html
Last edited by SCM_Crash; 09-05-2011 at 03:30 AM.
#44
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08,-'13-'14, '16-'17
Maybe you can make your own small one instead of buying a second one. Your main one should catch the majority of mist and oil particles while the second one would catch anything else that gets by. You can possibly use a fuel filter type as they are small enough not to take up any room and can be placed in line with the outgoing hose of the main catch can...just a thought
They can be run in series, but most use one for the pcv and one for the valve cover...
Peace
Chip
#45
Burning Brakes
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Sorry, been busy, drained my "Oil Catch Can" after 4 weeks of normal driving. It's shows that you don't have to be a street racer to have oil in your intake. It's amazing how much builds up just normal miles. Enjoy the Clean ride..
#46
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Wow, thats crazy! I'm surprised you get that much after 4 weeks. It takes me a whole summer of regular driving to get that amount
#47
Every motor is different depending on how well the rings seated, if the valley cover baffel is separating and letting more in, and of course the bigger cube or FI builds create more blow-by and thus more usage and how hard or easy a car is driven.
#49
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Did my oil change last week. Had 8800 miles on my car with a lot of beating on the car. This is an Elite Engineering catch can. The can was about 1/3 full. I also retained the PCV while I know others do not which is why they get MORE oil in their catch can.
#50
Race Director
My next engine mod will be an intake manifold. The catch can will go on at the same time.
Seafoam the whole system first, then new plugs, oil, filter, etc.
Chip, I will be calling later this Fall. Just can't bring myself to quit driving her for now, even for one weekend!
Seafoam the whole system first, then new plugs, oil, filter, etc.
Chip, I will be calling later this Fall. Just can't bring myself to quit driving her for now, even for one weekend!
#51
#52
Burning Brakes
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Even the less expensive ones work, the clear hose on the side is for you to have a visible of the build up as the oil moves up the catch can. The best is of course have some form of filter or exchanger for the hot oily gases to build up and separate the oil from the gases. But even the less expensive ones are better than the stock setup. Do your homework, purchase what fits your budget and just keep that oil out of your intake.. Enjoy the ride.
#53
Your correct Jesse, even a empty beer can with 2 fittings in it will work and catch oil. The idea though is to prevent ANY oil ingestion as no good comes from even a small amount, and most of the cans that are cheap in price are no more than empty cans with 2 fittings.
And if you look inside the filter media cans you will see most have the outlet app. 1" from the filter media so as the droplets fall off of the media the smaller ones are pulled right through.
The other issue is the size. Many are far to small to allow for the flow to slow enough for the oil droplets to all fall out of suspension. Take a small tube and put a cap full of water into it and it only takes a little puff to blow it all out. Now take a hose the size of a garen hose and pout the same cap full of water in it and you will not be able to blow it out no matter how hard you try. Same principal.
There are several princiapls that come into play to effectively separate all the oil out of the vapors as they are pulled through a can and very few address these and that is why if you do the clear galss fuel filter pull-through test you will see just how well (or poorly) a specific can does actually work.
Again, ALL will catch some oil...even the beer can, but it is what gets through and still is ingested that determines how effective a given can is.
And if you look inside the filter media cans you will see most have the outlet app. 1" from the filter media so as the droplets fall off of the media the smaller ones are pulled right through.
The other issue is the size. Many are far to small to allow for the flow to slow enough for the oil droplets to all fall out of suspension. Take a small tube and put a cap full of water into it and it only takes a little puff to blow it all out. Now take a hose the size of a garen hose and pout the same cap full of water in it and you will not be able to blow it out no matter how hard you try. Same principal.
There are several princiapls that come into play to effectively separate all the oil out of the vapors as they are pulled through a can and very few address these and that is why if you do the clear galss fuel filter pull-through test you will see just how well (or poorly) a specific can does actually work.
Again, ALL will catch some oil...even the beer can, but it is what gets through and still is ingested that determines how effective a given can is.
#54
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Catch can filter design is a balancing act (as are most designs in general). The airflow needs to be fast enough to "encourage" the oil droplets to impact the filter media, whereas too large a flow-through diameter of surrounding structure results in a velocity of gasses so low that the oil droplets are allowed to flow around the media.
#55
Burning Brakes
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Next time I will open my Catch Can, CC, take a picture of the internal and show you how I modified it to keep the oil from getting into my intake.. On paper I did this; Installed a 3" Stainless steel tube on the intake side going down from the top of the CC, inside that tube are steel mess, and the lower half of the tub has many cuts in the body so the oil can separate from the gases and drop to the bottom of the CC, and than the gases can go up to the output hole and get sucked into the intake. I made a mock up and it works pretty well. Here is my design on paper:
Last edited by Jesse Asis; 10-03-2011 at 05:07 PM.
#56
Race Director
Jesse,
according to the oil filtration experts I have spoken to, the filter media should be the last thing the blowby gasses "see" before exiting the structure. Having the oil droplets enter a sloshing, frothing reservoir before exiting the can is the opposite of when is idea, assuming the filter media is designed to trap oil effectively.
Ideally, the blowby gasses will first impact the inside wall of the reservoir to allow oil drainage by gravity. The gasses, which are then free of large droplets of oil should then exit through the media.
according to the oil filtration experts I have spoken to, the filter media should be the last thing the blowby gasses "see" before exiting the structure. Having the oil droplets enter a sloshing, frothing reservoir before exiting the can is the opposite of when is idea, assuming the filter media is designed to trap oil effectively.
Ideally, the blowby gasses will first impact the inside wall of the reservoir to allow oil drainage by gravity. The gasses, which are then free of large droplets of oil should then exit through the media.
#57
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Dave68, correct you are, but also the can should also be located were colder air should help drop the temp. so the gas and oil can separate. I looked at several options and the wire mess at the output, to me, would allow oil gases to attach and droplets to build up and possible air flow may push droplets towards the output hold. I was even thinking of a duel can setup, but room is a factor. I've seen several different designs and some have a green mesh on the intake as well. This seems to work for me at this point. Thanks, your observations are spot on... Enjoy the oil free Ride...
#58
Race Director
You are correct about keeping the catch can away from the main heat source, the engine. Yet so many catch can vendors advocate mounting the can to the cylinder head. Synthetic oil is tough to trap in the first place but keeping it hot just makes it easier to squirm by the filter media.
Dave
Dave
#59
Both are correct (good job jesse), but what we find with the "pull-through" test that when we installed a filter media near the outlet that as soon as it becomes saturated, it allows the smaller oil droplets to be pulled out the outlet and into the intake. Not alot mind you, but still noticeable.
Again, the size of the container and the design of the dispersion tubes and deflectors (baffles) we found to be the most critical. Get the flow slowed enogh to allow the condensed droplets to fall out of suspension, and make sure the vapors make as much contact with the outer cooling surfaces as possible.
The RX can uses a perforated dispersion tube where the perforations start in the condensing/collection chabmber, and the defection cylinder directs it all down and out allong the outer cooling surface where the disc baffle forces it to travel up the outside cooling surface as evenly as possible. It then has to enter the exit chamber where it has one more chance to cool & condense further before exiting the integrated flow controll checkvalve (as you guys mention above, the flow is critical. Not to fast and not to restricted).
Again, the size of the container and the design of the dispersion tubes and deflectors (baffles) we found to be the most critical. Get the flow slowed enogh to allow the condensed droplets to fall out of suspension, and make sure the vapors make as much contact with the outer cooling surfaces as possible.
The RX can uses a perforated dispersion tube where the perforations start in the condensing/collection chabmber, and the defection cylinder directs it all down and out allong the outer cooling surface where the disc baffle forces it to travel up the outside cooling surface as evenly as possible. It then has to enter the exit chamber where it has one more chance to cool & condense further before exiting the integrated flow controll checkvalve (as you guys mention above, the flow is critical. Not to fast and not to restricted).