...and once again, you have taken my response out of context. I expected this reply from you hours ago. Re-read my original post. There is plenty of lip even with my "adjustments" on Rhinos. That is why I only use a 2x4. Driving onto ANY ramp takes extreme caution. Your ramps are no different. I would do the same adjustment on your ramp as it is logical to get any clearance on these cars. As origianlly stated, I would PREFER your ramps. Just no need for the cost. No incidents in twenty years (will update you later when my car/truck/atv/boat/dog fall on me) and seeing as I am IN the car at the time, only my pride would be hurt. Stop selling fear...though it works well...

Bottom line, if you wish to sell a product to me (and I am only speaking of me), do not insinuate that I am an idiot and that what has worked SAFELY for me for two decades is a mistake. (PM me for address if you want to make up and send the proof of your superior product.)

 

Just got a message from the RaceRamp guys. I expected it to be flaming but I must admit, he was truly professional and I was impressed by his response. I still stand by my original post, but I should not have taken some replies so personal. I cannot speak to his product personally, but if it is as high caliber as he appears to me...may have to check into them one day.

(will still stick with my Rhinos and jack for now)

 

Here are my ramps I made years ago from 2X10s. They're not pretty & they're not light as are race ramps & rhino ramps. But they work great. They have never slid out from the car when driven on & are 100% stable. I first (of course) drive on the staggered front one. They have graduated slopes so I can tell where I'm at on them by myself. I since added chocks to the top as a safety measure. I then jack the rear with my floor jack and slide the "cribs" under the rear tires. Then remove the floor jack and have clear space under the car. The 10" wide fit the rear tire great. As I said they are completely stable, you can rock the car from side to side and their is no movement & that is what I like. If I have to go higher, front or back, I use jack stands but leave the ramps in place just in case. I think race ramps are nice but I made these years ago and they have never failed. And I don't use them everyday. The front are 6" high & the rear are 10" high. Makes it just right for an oil change. Guess I could paint them to match my car, but what the heck. Mike Mercury has a blueprint of the ones he made that are nice also.

tracer1

 

Nice and simple, and they WORK. I was wondering if you had 2 more like the fronts, could you change the oil without jacking??

 

Good question, Chasboy.......Don't know why you couldn't do that. I think the rear ramp may have to be a little higher to make the car somewhat level for the oil to drain properly but don't know for sure. The good thing is you can make these higher if you want. I've thought about making a contour for the wheel to sit in for the front to eliminate the stop & for the back crib also but they work very well as they are. With the chocks on the rear, even when the trans is in neutral, they're is no movement. I put the chocks up against the rear wheels so their would be no movement at all, & their isn't any. I work on my car 99% of the time by myself & just wanted something safe. My wife was always worried about me being under the car with jackstands because we had a very good friend crushed when his fell off of them. I know that's rare & probably a fluke but........so when I made these she relaxed quite a bit on that. As I said, Race Ramps are nice & light but I never knew about them years ago.

tracer1

 

I don't care for jackstands even tho' I've used them for years. I'd rather the car sit on it's own feet on solid lumber. My favorite Uncle also had a car fall on his chest. It was 'one of those superhuman stories" where my Grandfather found him and lifted the side of the car off him so he could get out.

 

I have the 3 ton (ea.) aluminum jackstands & have never had a problem with them. And I don't see a problem using them, as long as my ramps are there as a safety net. I just feel at ease under the car when I use my ramps & I'm sure the "store bought" ones are the same. Mine are not pretty or fashionable & they don't get the "oohs & a ahs" but I like'em and will stick with them as they have served me well throughout the years. Maybe I'll paint'em & stick some C5 emblems on 'em, lol......If you're a good welder, you could make some out of aluminum or even use diamond plate. The only thing bad I've seen about metal & plastic is they will slide depending on the surface. I would think the manufacturers would put rubber on the bottom to prevent this. BTW, you can also get cribs from race ramp. If I can be of help in the future, let me know. Any way, good luck on whatever you decide and remember........
Be Safe

tracer1

 

Race Ramps Wheel Cribs are available in 8", 10" and 12" heights. There are two styles, one-piece and two-piece.

Before you order a set of Wheel Cribs you should verify that your floor jack has the top end range to lift your car high enough to slip the Wheel Cribs under the tires with the suspension extended. The inexpensive floor jacks with a 14" max height won't do the job.

If you only get one set of Wheel Cribs, consider the two-piece Adjustable Height models. They allow you to raise the car in two steps. This means you can add a suitable spacer between your floor jack and the car once the wheels are on the first half of the Wheel Cribs. It's unlikely that your floor jack would fit under your car with the spacer if the car is still on the ground. So you need to get it on the first half of the Wheel Cribs before adding the spacer.

If you use the Wheel Cribs along with one of the service ramps, remember to chock the wheels on the service ramps before placing the opposite end on the Wheel Cribs.

If you plan to use a Wheel Crib under all four tires, you should get one set of one-piece and one set of two-piece Wheel Cribs. The reason is that once the first set of Wheel Cribs is in place, it may not be possible to get your floor jack under the opposite end of the car. The sequence to get the car on the four Wheel Cribs would be something like this:

1) Place one end of the car on the first half of the Adjustable Wheel Cribs.
2) Place the other end of the car on the one-piece Wheel Cribs.
3) Add the upper half of the Adjustable Wheel Cribs to the first end of the car.

As a point of information, you cannot mix and match the halves of different size Adjustable Wheel Cribs. In other words you cannot use the bottom of the RR-WC-10-2 with the top of the RR-WC-12-2 to make an 11" high Wheel Crib.

 

I know that jack stands for the most part are safe, I just always felt uneasy under them. My new Rhinos have rubber pads under them to prevent slipping, working perfectly when I used them last week.