Help with 01 Vette
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: McAllen TX
Help with 01 Vette
im looking into an 01 Vert Arctic white Vette. Its loaded with pretty much everything from that year. 1 previous owner with 74k miles. 6 speed manual
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 15
From: Ga
Both common problems with the C5. Buy a column lock by-pass to ensure you don't get stuck with a locked wheel. The oil sending unit is no big deal. If it's a dealer your working with have them replace the unit. its a PIA to get to. The part is ultra cheep. Offer 16.5k and see what the do. Best and good luck.
D.
D.
im looking into an 01 Vert Arctic white Vette. Its loaded with pretty much everything from that year. 1 previous owner with 74k miles. 6 speed manual
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: McAllen TX
ill have to look into that...
what do you think about the price? It sounds like they were pretty flexible on it.
it was at a Ford dealership so im not sure if theyd be willing to fix or try to fix the "issues" it has
what do you think about the price? It sounds like they were pretty flexible on it.
it was at a Ford dealership so im not sure if theyd be willing to fix or try to fix the "issues" it has
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 73,568
Likes: 33
From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
The oil sending unit is known issue with a C5. But keep in mind not everyone will experience that issue.
But it also appears that cars that have some of the known issues pop up, other known issues pop up as well, while some people don't have issue one with their car.
This may be a one time, one issue thing, or it may have laready been replaced 3 times. you won't know for sure.
But like I say, from my expriences in buying cars for 38 years, if you ignore an issue when you buy it, you're asking for other issues. I would be way more comfortable with this car if it didn't have any of the known issues. especially at the price they're asking. A known issue for me is at minimum 2K off the price no matter what it is.
But it also appears that cars that have some of the known issues pop up, other known issues pop up as well, while some people don't have issue one with their car.
This may be a one time, one issue thing, or it may have laready been replaced 3 times. you won't know for sure.
But like I say, from my expriences in buying cars for 38 years, if you ignore an issue when you buy it, you're asking for other issues. I would be way more comfortable with this car if it didn't have any of the known issues. especially at the price they're asking. A known issue for me is at minimum 2K off the price no matter what it is.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
im looking into an 01 Vert Arctic white Vette. Its loaded with pretty much everything from that year. 1 previous owner with 74k miles. 6 speed manual
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
Price is too high; but anyone that walks into a dealer and pays asking price on a car like this deserves what they get. They'll move; negotiate.
Make them fix the pegged oil pressure indicator. Yes they can fix it; any experienced mechanic could do it in 45 minutes tops. You just remove air intake and intake manifold then unscrew the sensor and screw a new one in then put everything back like you found it. Don't need a mechanical engineering degree for this.
Do not let them touch the column lock mechanism; they'll screw it up. There is a GM recall (several of them actually) for this but they all failed miserably in fixing this issue. Buy an aftermarket Column Lock Bypass from Corvettes of Houston for $50 and install it yourself. It takes 25 -30 minutes if you've never held a screwdriver before. Ten minute job from the time I pulled into the garage to the time I put the tools away for me.
Pull the DTC codes to see if there are any other issues with the car. You do not need an aftermarket scanner, you can pull them from the car's DIC. When you go see the car pull the codes and reset all of them. Then take it for a long test drive and when you get back pull them again. The ones that come back are current issues. Look them up yourself or post them on here if you're not sure. Instructions on pulling codes below:
POST DTCS!!!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,738
Likes: 10
From: Austin, Texas
Why not ask the dealership to have the two issues fixed? $18K may be reasonable for a perfect car, but a bit high with a couple issues. Maybe you can get them to come off some $ knowing that is has issues.
The column lock can be a real pain. It is arguably the most talked about problem with the C5. If you say that the message is on the DIC, but you can still move the steering wheel (actually drive the car), it could already have the Column Lock Bypass installed. It would also mean that most likely none (or at least the latest) GM recalls have not been done. Because one of the later ones, if not the last, actually programs the ECU to shut off the fuel at 2mph if it detects a column lock. Not having any of the recalls done is not necessarily a bad thing. If you have the CLB installed, and the car does not shut off at 2mph, you should not have any issues driving it. If the recalls have been done, then someone would have to have changed the 2mph shut off (I did that to mine) with tuning software. I would check the age/voltage of the battery (with the ground side disconnected you should see at least 12.8volts), as low battery voltage can cause column lock issues. Pull the codes to see if anything else may be wrong.
As for the oil pressure sensor, that will not cause any problems, but you would definitely want to have that replaced. I wouldn't want to drive mine too long not know what the actual pressure is.
The column lock can be a real pain. It is arguably the most talked about problem with the C5. If you say that the message is on the DIC, but you can still move the steering wheel (actually drive the car), it could already have the Column Lock Bypass installed. It would also mean that most likely none (or at least the latest) GM recalls have not been done. Because one of the later ones, if not the last, actually programs the ECU to shut off the fuel at 2mph if it detects a column lock. Not having any of the recalls done is not necessarily a bad thing. If you have the CLB installed, and the car does not shut off at 2mph, you should not have any issues driving it. If the recalls have been done, then someone would have to have changed the 2mph shut off (I did that to mine) with tuning software. I would check the age/voltage of the battery (with the ground side disconnected you should see at least 12.8volts), as low battery voltage can cause column lock issues. Pull the codes to see if anything else may be wrong.
As for the oil pressure sensor, that will not cause any problems, but you would definitely want to have that replaced. I wouldn't want to drive mine too long not know what the actual pressure is.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Loveland Colorado
Comparison
im looking into an 01 Vert Arctic white Vette. Its loaded with pretty much everything from that year. 1 previous owner with 74k miles. 6 speed manual
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
I test drove it last night from the dealership.
Things im concearned with:
Service lock column (it says on the info display on the dash) might be from the power steering column? it has some play when you push and pull the steering wheel.
and
Oil pressure guage stays at max (80) all the time.
car looks pretty good, no blemishes on the paint that i can see. has a small scratch on the convertible top but no more than 1" long.
asking price is 18k what do you all think?
Not sure if my example would help you or not but I too bought a white 2001 last month for comparison.
Mine is an auto, not manual transmission and a coupe, not vert.
Yours has 74K on the odometer where mine had just turned 50K by original owner.
Yours has error codes and bad oil pressure sender maybe. Mine had only a bad battery and with new battery needs nothing and has zero codes.
Your post has no real details about the cosmetics other than no blemishes. Look at the tire condition, or how the glass looks, and carpet etc. After a good wash and wax mine looked like a new car. Also look at the rubber seal condition on the door, trunk, and hood as these can be expensive items to replace. Mine had new OEM type tires, this is another big $$ item if yours will need replacement soon!
I think you can do better on the 18K price. I paid 17K for mine with a lot less on the odometer, new expensive tires, almost every option available, a perfect CarFax report, and like new car except for my battery replacement and some minimal issues.
You might also double check the paint code on it! In 2001 the Arctic White was not available. The factory color was Speedway White, a little softer looking white than Arctic White when side by side.
Perhaps it is possible the car has been repainted? It would have to be if it really is Arctic White.
Here is a link that is full of info on the 2001 Corvette (and other years too). You can see the options available too.
http://web-cars.com/corvette/2001.php
Below is my Speedway White......best wishes!
Last edited by KN6VV; Nov 1, 2011 at 03:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: McAllen TX
so the low/dead battery can cause the wheel lock thing to go off?
now that i think about it, the battery was dead on the car last night when i went for a test drive. they had to jump start the car
now that i think about it, the battery was dead on the car last night when i went for a test drive. they had to jump start the car
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Loveland Colorado
There are more educated people than I on this forum with info on this subject but I have seen frequent problems reported by many who later determine the whole list of errors were being caused by bad vehicle batteries.
Speaking of batteries, VERY IMPORTANT - remove the battery if able and inspect the whole area for signs of acid leaking. There is a serious list of problems that can be caused by acid leaks that drain below the battery tray area to components below! This is well documented on this forum so use the search function and look it over!
Tom
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
From: York PA
Assuming Speedway White is the color, only 7% of 2001 vert production was this color. Dark Bowling Green was the only lower production color.
Miles seem a bit high based on what's out there. Corvettes are not a typical used car, so 74,000 seems on the high side, even for a 2001.
Miles seem a bit high based on what's out there. Corvettes are not a typical used car, so 74,000 seems on the high side, even for a 2001.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 73,568
Likes: 33
From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
When I drove my new purchase from Florida to Colorado I noticed the battery voltage on the DIC while at steady freeway speeds was all over the place from say 9 volts to 14 volts. By the time I got home it was mostly at 9 to 10 volts unless the charger was on it and I was getting all kinds of error messages! I bought replacement FOBs and they would not even program. I bought a new vehicle battery and everything cleared up and there are no error codes.
There are more educated people than I on this forum with info on this subject but I have seen frequent problems reported by many who later determine the whole list of errors were being caused by bad vehicle batteries.
Speaking of batteries, VERY IMPORTANT - remove the battery if able and inspect the whole area for signs of acid leaking. There is a serious list of problems that can be caused by acid leaks that drain below the battery tray area to components below! This is well documented on this forum so use the search function and look it over!
Tom
There are more educated people than I on this forum with info on this subject but I have seen frequent problems reported by many who later determine the whole list of errors were being caused by bad vehicle batteries.
Speaking of batteries, VERY IMPORTANT - remove the battery if able and inspect the whole area for signs of acid leaking. There is a serious list of problems that can be caused by acid leaks that drain below the battery tray area to components below! This is well documented on this forum so use the search function and look it over!
Tom
Correct me if I'm wrong!
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
01 vert
For comparison.......I just bought my 01 speedway white vert about 6 weeks ago. Other than needing a really good wash and cleaning, I had to replace the hazard switch because my blinkers were not working and I replaced the sun visors. Total spent was $145 to repair the blinkers and the visors. My car had just turned 50k miles and is loaded with options, hud, memory, etc... Mine was in that same price range, but as someone mentioned, I did some negotiating due to the needed repairs. (bought it from an individual) I have put a little over 1100 miles on it in the past six weeks and it has been great.
I agree that a dealer "typically" is going to move on the price.....especially this time of year. No dealer wants a vert on the lot in the winter. However, I suspect that is also why it is priced where it is so there may not be as much mark up as you may expect. Vettes tend to be priced lower this time of year and then peak in April and May. BTW, after completing my search for my vette......it's not as easy to buy a nice car cheap as some would have you believe it is! Verts (2001 and newer in nice condition) under $18k are not that common. Good luck!
I agree that a dealer "typically" is going to move on the price.....especially this time of year. No dealer wants a vert on the lot in the winter. However, I suspect that is also why it is priced where it is so there may not be as much mark up as you may expect. Vettes tend to be priced lower this time of year and then peak in April and May. BTW, after completing my search for my vette......it's not as easy to buy a nice car cheap as some would have you believe it is! Verts (2001 and newer in nice condition) under $18k are not that common. Good luck!
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 731
From: Southwest Kansas
2022 Corvette of the Year Finalist -- Unmodified
2021 C6 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
Check out these videos on Column lock issue and batteries.
http://vettetube.com/view_video.php?...25f49408d959ca
http://vettetube.com/view_video.php?...3c1a84ce5276e9
http://vettetube.com/view_video.php?...25f49408d959ca
http://vettetube.com/view_video.php?...3c1a84ce5276e9
