Bluefire

A lean AFR is the worst case scenario. It will fry the motor the quickest. If you must drive it, stay in the low rpm range.

geno01

I would put the stock power duct back on and try the relearn. Just a suggestion, might save you a tune. good luck!

Silverbullet00

I am betting you have an air leak somewhere maybe assocoated with the power duct.


I am not running the power duct and no problems for 3 plus years now with my VRB2.

SoDiezl350

Car will lean out more at higher RPM as well so yes avoid driving it there. 150 miles is fine. Honestly the computer can correct most fuel conditions as long as it's not WOT. At WOT it no longer runs closed loop fuel control where it uses the O2 sensors to correct. As long as you avoid WOT you will be fine.

red97vette

Thanks, I guess ill be double checking for leaks when I get home. If its still a problem the PD is going up for sale.

Olson98

That's why I took it off my 98 coupe. My car was stock and I tried everything everyone recommended, still had the codes. I didn't feel like paying the price of a tune either,since I was planning on selling the car within a year. Many here have no problems,just us few.

Good Luck

retired08

I installed a Vararam on my '04 and had very noticable results at speeds over 35mph...just like Vararam says...no warning or "check" lights came on. I did not install the power duct on the '04. I also put the Vararam on my '00, without the power duct (because the company sent me the wrong tubes), and had the same results as the '04...My only problem was that Vararam "re-tooled" their duct system and it does not line up and it cannot be fastened like it's supposed to be at the inlets next to the driving lights....the guy from Vararam said there was a problem with that "fit" so just don't use those screws at the inlet...he said the rest of the fasteners and the duct will hold everything in place. I didn't like his answer but tried it and things seem to be "holding" just fine. I also put a Grannetelli MAFS on the '04. It has a Corsa touring exhaust. The '00 has the X pipe, stock mufflers (for now), and the stock MAFS. Over-all, I'm very satisfied with the Vararam despite the poor fittment.

Baibaikin

It could also be turbulence across MAF.

I have a blackwing, and removed the front plate cover to let in more cold air.

Sets a lean code.

Reset codes, drive again.

Sets lean code again.

Put plate cover back on.

No more codes.

MNR

As others have said, try taking the PD off the car and see if the code still comes up. More than likely some part of the coupler is buckled somewhere.

I installed a VR (no PD) and I didnt get any check engine light but I do have an extremely high idle after a cold start, like 15mph crawl speed high (its an A4,).

papafrancisco

Been tracking the Vararam B2 and power duct threads mainly because I have interest in purchasing same. What I am hearing is the CAI works reasonably well without tuning however if you add the power duct, tuning may be required to eliminate the codes. Tuning via COW or others run upward to $600. Is my thinking correct so far?

red97vette

Yep, this seems to be the consensus. The only thing I can think of off hand is the MAF has a 'notch' on the ring that comes out a little (the part of the MAF that is closest part to the engine) that the rubber ring slips over, maybe this isnt creating a proper seal? I used the rubber connector ring that is smaller on the one end and bigger on the other that connects to the MAF, the bigger opening slips over the throttle body and the smaller end goes over the MAF. This is the correct ring to use, right?

rebelheart

Your Black wing will actually suck up more water during rainfall as it gets it's air supply much lower and from the road surface where the water is!

red97vette

Update:

I checked the hoses and they all looked tight, I re did the clamps, but I dont think that really did anything. I then did the fuel reset (the two 10 amp breakers) for the 2nd time and so far so good. I drove about 10 miles with out the check engine light coming on.
The first time I did the reset it came on almost right away, so now im a bit more hopeful.
The car runs strong as hell with this new intake setup!

Bluefire

It may have needed a second reset because the PCM had not completely re-calibrated the new AFR's.

The difference in feel (and sound) is amazing.

RonSSNova

My car had the VaraRam when I bought it. When i got around to checking the air filter, it was the original disaster of a filter. so replace it with a K&N I glued in.
At the same time, I replaced the unscreened Z06 MAf someone had installed and not tuned for. Since the original air bridge would no longer work with the stock MAF, I bought the VR power Duct for a 97-00 car.

Well, it didn't fit at all as advertised. I had to put the MAF in the stock position, not between the air bridge and the TB. No problem, except the couplers they gave me wouldn't work. So between couplers from the old air bridge and the new one, I was able to make it work fine.

I sent them an email and they sent me correct couplers, but didn't comment on the fit.

Here is how it ended up.



From what I have read about tuning, if you change the inlet path to the MAF significantly, you will have to tune the MAF table.

Have a photo of how yours ended up?

BTW....I haven't installed the couplers they sent yet. i'll be changing to a FAST 102, 90mm TB and 85MM MAF over the winter and will have to change it all again.

I never did get a check engine light though.

Ron

Silverbullet00

I hope you fixed it,,,but I would still dump the PD!

0Chuck CoW

Dan.... Here you go.... Installing the B2 is NO PROBLEM with a stock pcm.

When adding the power duct, it can either be installed with the MAF sensor BEFORE

or after the PD.

If you're NOT planning on tuning the car, then you have to remove the PD...

It will change the airflow enough that you'll get a lean fuel trim code. It might

run really strong at WOT, but again, if you're not tuning it, then remove the PD.

If you're looking to make it run correctly and really change the way the car drives,

call me and I can set you up with an AutoCal to get the most out of it...

Call any time.
Chuck CoW

mph1972

This fixed mine!!!

SoDiezl350

Hey Chuck,

Since you're the most knowledgeable about person who has posted in this thread about tuning the ECM could you clarify some issues for everyone here.

When changing the intake on the C5, the ECM adapts to the revised air flow. Could you explain to what extent it adapts?

When I installed a Vararam on my LS1

SoDiezl350

Hey Chuck,

Since you're the most knowledgeable about person who has posted in this thread about tuning the ECM could you clarify some issues for everyone here.

When changing the intake on the C5, the ECM adapts to the revised air flow. Could you explain to what extent it adapts? Now my understanding is that the ECM will adjust fuel delivery by up to 15% without throwing a code. Is this to say that it will adjust over the entire RPM/Load range to match the current air flow or will it look at the LTFT value and simply add or subtract the average percentage amount across the entire RPM range. Additionally, does it make these adjustments to both part throttle and wide open throttle(WOT)?

When I installed a Vararam on my LS1 it didn't throw a code but a quick scan of the LTFTs revealed that it was having to add 15% more fuel. Additionally a scan of the O2 voltages at WOT revealed that the mixture was leaner than one would prefer. The surprising thing to me was that the ECM was adjusting the part throttle mixture to maintain a stoich AFR but was doing nothing(or so it seemed) at WOT. This was troubling to me and was the main reason I chose to go with a custom tune.

What's troubling to me in this thread is that people are under the impression that as long as the car isn't throwing a code everything is running fine. Can you confirm this is or isn't the case?

Thanks