Installed Vararam, now Check Engine light
11-10-2011, 02:29 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Installed Vararam, now Check Engine light
So I installed the Vararam VR B2 last night, all went well, but man what a pain in the *** 
I installed the power duct too and managed to get everything all lined up. The install took around 5 - 6 hours, I see now why they recommend having a friend there to help out.
The car started up fine, I noticed a little bit or surging at idle but nothing crazy and after driving around for a few minutes the car is back to normal. However, now the check engine light is on. The car runs fine and pulls harder than before (i think..) but im getting the P0171 and P0174 codes.
P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2
Is there any way to get the car to "relearn" the fuel management after the intake install? Im not in a position to pay for a tune, especially for just an intake. My car is an 03 Z that is bone stock, except now for the VR and PD.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Dan
I installed the power duct too and managed to get everything all lined up. The install took around 5 - 6 hours, I see now why they recommend having a friend there to help out.The car started up fine, I noticed a little bit or surging at idle but nothing crazy and after driving around for a few minutes the car is back to normal. However, now the check engine light is on. The car runs fine and pulls harder than before (i think..) but im getting the P0171 and P0174 codes.
P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2
Is there any way to get the car to "relearn" the fuel management after the intake install? Im not in a position to pay for a tune, especially for just an intake. My car is an 03 Z that is bone stock, except now for the VR and PD.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Dan
11-10-2011, 02:37 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
I had to do the idle relearn procedure (search for it) after installing the same. They say you should also drive it for about 50 miles for the computer to adjust to the new setup. 
11-10-2011, 02:45 PM
#3
Race Director
Verify you have no air leaks anywhere in the intake system. It's not uncommon for a silicone coupler to pucker beneath the throttle body allowing in un-metered air. You will only be able to see it with a small mirror. It happened when I initially installed an SLP Blackwing with the "ice box cover". I still got intermittent lean codes. I ended up getting rid of it. I'm at 5,200 ft elevation. A 300 mile round trip for a $500 tune didn't appeal to me, either.
HALLTECH recently came out with this product that is supposed to suppress the lean codes associated with the VARARAM and other true cold air intakes...
http://www.halltechsystems.com/Hallt...r_p/hc.125.htm
I recently installed a CALLAWAY Honker (MAF is moved closer to the throttle body) in addition to the HALLTECH product. Between the "idle relearn procedure" and that product, no lean codes.
Idle Re-learn Procedure
1) Insert key into ignition and turn to the “ON” position, but, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
2) Open the engine compartment fuse box cover and remove the two 10 amp fuses from position numbers 16 & 23.
a) According to the manual there are two fuse boxes. Use the engine compartment fuse block for this procedure not the instrument panel fuse block.
b) Engine Compartment Fuse Block (correct one): 16 is Powertrain Control Module A and 23 is Powertrain Control Module B.
c) Instrument panel fuse block (wrong one): 16 is Air Bag, 22 is Body Control Module-Ignition and 23 is Body Control Module-Ignition 2.
NOTE: Your DIC will now display “check” messages for ABS, etc… Do not worry as this is normal.
3) Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position.
4) Return to the engine compartment fuse box and re-insert both 10 amp fuses for positions 16 & 23.
5a) Idle relearn for an M6:
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) After the 176 degree, 5 minute minimum run, shut down the engine for a minimum of 30 seconds.
3) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
5b) Idle relearn for an A4: (different)
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) Allow the car to idle in DRIVE, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each, and then in NEUTRAL, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each.
3) Turn the car off for at least 30 seconds.
4) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
6) Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCM will now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and temperature at the intake.
a) If error codes persist, repeat steps 1-7. Make sure fuses are properly inserted before repeating steps.
b) Do not deviate from the sequence outlined above. If you do, restart the sequence from scratch.
c) Steps 1-4 are also necessary if you ever disconnect your battery or lose power for any reason.
HALLTECH recently came out with this product that is supposed to suppress the lean codes associated with the VARARAM and other true cold air intakes...
http://www.halltechsystems.com/Hallt...r_p/hc.125.htm
I recently installed a CALLAWAY Honker (MAF is moved closer to the throttle body) in addition to the HALLTECH product. Between the "idle relearn procedure" and that product, no lean codes.
Idle Re-learn Procedure
1) Insert key into ignition and turn to the “ON” position, but, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
2) Open the engine compartment fuse box cover and remove the two 10 amp fuses from position numbers 16 & 23.
a) According to the manual there are two fuse boxes. Use the engine compartment fuse block for this procedure not the instrument panel fuse block.
b) Engine Compartment Fuse Block (correct one): 16 is Powertrain Control Module A and 23 is Powertrain Control Module B.
c) Instrument panel fuse block (wrong one): 16 is Air Bag, 22 is Body Control Module-Ignition and 23 is Body Control Module-Ignition 2.
NOTE: Your DIC will now display “check” messages for ABS, etc… Do not worry as this is normal.
3) Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position.
4) Return to the engine compartment fuse box and re-insert both 10 amp fuses for positions 16 & 23.
5a) Idle relearn for an M6:
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) After the 176 degree, 5 minute minimum run, shut down the engine for a minimum of 30 seconds.
3) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
5b) Idle relearn for an A4: (different)
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) Allow the car to idle in DRIVE, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each, and then in NEUTRAL, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each.
3) Turn the car off for at least 30 seconds.
4) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
6) Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCM will now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and temperature at the intake.
a) If error codes persist, repeat steps 1-7. Make sure fuses are properly inserted before repeating steps.
b) Do not deviate from the sequence outlined above. If you do, restart the sequence from scratch.
c) Steps 1-4 are also necessary if you ever disconnect your battery or lose power for any reason.
Last edited by hotwheels57; 11-10-2011 at 05:12 PM.
11-10-2011, 04:21 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
The PCM tries to adjust for the new airflow. Sometimes it can compensate, other times the change is too much and requires a tune. Mine need one as I was starting to develop a ping.
11-10-2011, 04:42 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
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Also I think the power duct has you relocate the MAF. I didn't use the power duct on mine and the MAF stayed in the same place as factory. Never got any lean codes. Had a friend that had your setup and he had to get it tuned.
11-10-2011, 05:28 PM
#8
11-10-2011, 05:29 PM
#9
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I had the same problem with the lean codes after installing the Vararam with power duct. The lean codes kept popping. I since installed a Halltech honeycomb screen in the MAF and that solved the constant popping of the lean codes.
That said, every thousand miles or so I'll still get the lean codes to pop so I haven't completely solved the problem. Next year I'll be getting a tune after I add the long tubes and B&B Bullets which should take care of it for good.
That said, every thousand miles or so I'll still get the lean codes to pop so I haven't completely solved the problem. Next year I'll be getting a tune after I add the long tubes and B&B Bullets which should take care of it for good.
11-11-2011, 09:45 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Verify you have no air leaks anywhere in the intake system. It's not uncommon for a silicone coupler to pucker beneath the throttle body allowing in un-metered air. You will only be able to see it with a small mirror. It happened when I initially installed an SLP Blackwing with the "ice box cover". I still got intermittent lean codes. I ended up getting rid of it. I'm at 5,200 ft elevation. A 300 mile round trip for a $500 tune didn't appeal to me, either.
HALLTECH recently came out with this product that is supposed to suppress the lean codes associated with the VARARAM and other true cold air intakes...
http://www.halltechsystems.com/Hallt...r_p/hc.125.htm
I recently installed a CALLAWAY Honker (MAF is moved closer to the throttle body) in addition to the HALLTECH product. Between the "idle relearn procedure" and that product, no lean codes.
Idle Re-learn Procedure
1) Insert key into ignition and turn to the “ON” position, but, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
2) Open the engine compartment fuse box cover and remove the two 10 amp fuses from position numbers 16 & 23.
a) According to the manual there are two fuse boxes. Use the engine compartment fuse block for this procedure not the instrument panel fuse block.
b) Engine Compartment Fuse Block (correct one): 16 is Powertrain Control Module A and 23 is Powertrain Control Module B.
c) Instrument panel fuse block (wrong one): 16 is Air Bag, 22 is Body Control Module-Ignition and 23 is Body Control Module-Ignition 2.
NOTE: Your DIC will now display “check” messages for ABS, etc… Do not worry as this is normal.
3) Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position.
4) Return to the engine compartment fuse box and re-insert both 10 amp fuses for positions 16 & 23.
5a) Idle relearn for an M6:
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) After the 176 degree, 5 minute minimum run, shut down the engine for a minimum of 30 seconds.
3) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
5b) Idle relearn for an A4: (different)
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) Allow the car to idle in DRIVE, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each, and then in NEUTRAL, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each.
3) Turn the car off for at least 30 seconds.
4) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
6) Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCM will now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and temperature at the intake.
a) If error codes persist, repeat steps 1-7. Make sure fuses are properly inserted before repeating steps.
b) Do not deviate from the sequence outlined above. If you do, restart the sequence from scratch.
c) Steps 1-4 are also necessary if you ever disconnect your battery or lose power for any reason.
HALLTECH recently came out with this product that is supposed to suppress the lean codes associated with the VARARAM and other true cold air intakes...
http://www.halltechsystems.com/Hallt...r_p/hc.125.htm
I recently installed a CALLAWAY Honker (MAF is moved closer to the throttle body) in addition to the HALLTECH product. Between the "idle relearn procedure" and that product, no lean codes.
Idle Re-learn Procedure
1) Insert key into ignition and turn to the “ON” position, but, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
2) Open the engine compartment fuse box cover and remove the two 10 amp fuses from position numbers 16 & 23.
a) According to the manual there are two fuse boxes. Use the engine compartment fuse block for this procedure not the instrument panel fuse block.
b) Engine Compartment Fuse Block (correct one): 16 is Powertrain Control Module A and 23 is Powertrain Control Module B.
c) Instrument panel fuse block (wrong one): 16 is Air Bag, 22 is Body Control Module-Ignition and 23 is Body Control Module-Ignition 2.
NOTE: Your DIC will now display “check” messages for ABS, etc… Do not worry as this is normal.
3) Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position.
4) Return to the engine compartment fuse box and re-insert both 10 amp fuses for positions 16 & 23.
5a) Idle relearn for an M6:
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) After the 176 degree, 5 minute minimum run, shut down the engine for a minimum of 30 seconds.
3) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
5b) Idle relearn for an A4: (different)
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
2) Allow the car to idle in DRIVE, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each, and then in NEUTRAL, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each.
3) Turn the car off for at least 30 seconds.
4) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
6) Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCM will now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and temperature at the intake.
a) If error codes persist, repeat steps 1-7. Make sure fuses are properly inserted before repeating steps.
b) Do not deviate from the sequence outlined above. If you do, restart the sequence from scratch.
c) Steps 1-4 are also necessary if you ever disconnect your battery or lose power for any reason.
Is there any chance of it going away on its own after a few more miles? I have only driven about 20 miles since the install.
Dan
11-11-2011, 09:48 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
As people have said you wanna get the Halltech screen since you have a Z06. I would also highly recommend getting a tune. On my LS1 even with a screen in place the LTFT were off by 15% as a result of the vararam install. I know a lot of people don't recommend the Diablosport predator but in my case this is where it proved extremely useful.
I was aware of the potential issues associated with the Vararam and the need to change the MAF transfer function as a result of the modified air flow it produces. Now the majority of the people on the forums who have a predator and a vararam have actually had more problems than success. This is because the majority of the people using the Predator are actually using the tune that comes with the tool. This tune does nothing to modify the MAF transfer function and simply leans out the A/F a little across the board along with some timing changes. This is fine for a mild performance increase on a otherwise stock car but the Vararam requires such a significant change to the MAF transfer function that it actually causes problems to use this tune in combination with the intake. The Predator "hand held tuner" does allow global adjustments to fuel tables but due to the fact that these adjustments are not RPM specific it is not well suited to an intake which is so dependant on the speed of the vehicle as well as the RPM of the motor.
What most people don't know is that custom tunes specifically for the Predator are available from various online tuners who will use data that can be collected with the Predator to adjust the MAF transfer function and tailor it the specific car. Please do not confuse this type of tune with the tuning functionality built into the tuner. While not as finely sculpted as a dyno tune with a wideband sensor, they are a huge improvement over no tune or the predator tune that comes included with the unit.
To summarize, after installing my vararam I observed a 15% increase in Long Term Fuel Trim adjustment(LTFTs) with the tune that comes on the Predator. This meant the ECU was having to add on average 15% more fuel than what it was expecting based on the readings it had received from the MAF. In the case of a Z06 without a screen, this is usually around 25%. My O2 sensors voltage at WOT was typically between 0.75 and 0.82 volts. This roughly equates to around 13.5 AFR. I chose to go with a Diablew tune for which I paid $100. Lew, the tuner, had me record specific parameters of the car with the Predator with which he created the tune. After each tune I would remeasure these parameters. It took 3 iterations to get it "dialed" in. After the tune my LTFTs dropped to 2% while my O2 sensor voltage at WOT was around 0.93 Volts (~12.5 AFR). The car was considerably smoother and faster. I still got around 29mpg on the freeway and also felt a lot better knowing my car was not running dangerously lean. I also have the option of receiving a free retune if I ever choose to install additional mods including long tube headers.
Edit:
If I wasn't clear in my original post, the tune as well as datalogging was all sent via email. I never had to send my ECU out anywhere as it can be uploaded with the Predator.
I should also mention that it's possible to do the same thing without a Predator. ECS and ChuckCOW both sell tunes by telling them what mods you have. You then ship them your ECU which they program and send back to you. It is also possible to purchase an Autocal(very similar to Predator) datalogging device which can measure system sensors as well as download and upload tunes thus enabling you to do this all via email. ECS no longer supports autocal tuning as I imagine they don't have time to tailor each program to each user. ChuckCow stills supports AutoCal tuning. The Autocal costs $299. An ECS "generic" tune costs $99. The ChuckCow "custom" tune costs $299. The Diablew Predator "custom" tune costs $99. All offer free retunes.
I was aware of the potential issues associated with the Vararam and the need to change the MAF transfer function as a result of the modified air flow it produces. Now the majority of the people on the forums who have a predator and a vararam have actually had more problems than success. This is because the majority of the people using the Predator are actually using the tune that comes with the tool. This tune does nothing to modify the MAF transfer function and simply leans out the A/F a little across the board along with some timing changes. This is fine for a mild performance increase on a otherwise stock car but the Vararam requires such a significant change to the MAF transfer function that it actually causes problems to use this tune in combination with the intake. The Predator "hand held tuner" does allow global adjustments to fuel tables but due to the fact that these adjustments are not RPM specific it is not well suited to an intake which is so dependant on the speed of the vehicle as well as the RPM of the motor.
What most people don't know is that custom tunes specifically for the Predator are available from various online tuners who will use data that can be collected with the Predator to adjust the MAF transfer function and tailor it the specific car. Please do not confuse this type of tune with the tuning functionality built into the tuner. While not as finely sculpted as a dyno tune with a wideband sensor, they are a huge improvement over no tune or the predator tune that comes included with the unit.
To summarize, after installing my vararam I observed a 15% increase in Long Term Fuel Trim adjustment(LTFTs) with the tune that comes on the Predator. This meant the ECU was having to add on average 15% more fuel than what it was expecting based on the readings it had received from the MAF. In the case of a Z06 without a screen, this is usually around 25%. My O2 sensors voltage at WOT was typically between 0.75 and 0.82 volts. This roughly equates to around 13.5 AFR. I chose to go with a Diablew tune for which I paid $100. Lew, the tuner, had me record specific parameters of the car with the Predator with which he created the tune. After each tune I would remeasure these parameters. It took 3 iterations to get it "dialed" in. After the tune my LTFTs dropped to 2% while my O2 sensor voltage at WOT was around 0.93 Volts (~12.5 AFR). The car was considerably smoother and faster. I still got around 29mpg on the freeway and also felt a lot better knowing my car was not running dangerously lean. I also have the option of receiving a free retune if I ever choose to install additional mods including long tube headers.
Edit:
If I wasn't clear in my original post, the tune as well as datalogging was all sent via email. I never had to send my ECU out anywhere as it can be uploaded with the Predator.
I should also mention that it's possible to do the same thing without a Predator. ECS and ChuckCOW both sell tunes by telling them what mods you have. You then ship them your ECU which they program and send back to you. It is also possible to purchase an Autocal(very similar to Predator) datalogging device which can measure system sensors as well as download and upload tunes thus enabling you to do this all via email. ECS no longer supports autocal tuning as I imagine they don't have time to tailor each program to each user. ChuckCow stills supports AutoCal tuning. The Autocal costs $299. An ECS "generic" tune costs $99. The ChuckCow "custom" tune costs $299. The Diablew Predator "custom" tune costs $99. All offer free retunes.
Last edited by SoDiezl350; 11-11-2011 at 10:11 AM.
11-11-2011, 09:49 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
11-11-2011, 09:55 AM
#17
Drifting
Thats why I will stick with my Blackwing, It may not make the power of the vararam but it wont vacume up water after a rainstorm either
11-11-2011, 10:21 AM
#18
Burning Brakes
The horsepower gains per dollar will be higher than any other mod you chose to do. The intake costs $250. The MAF screen costs 50 dollars. I bought my predator for $200 and my tune for $100. That's $600. If you search for people who had both "street" tunes as well as dyno tunes you will find most do not gain much at the dyno. Especially on an intake like the Vararam which prefers a "street" tune due effect the speed of the car has on the intake peformance. Since the most people see around 30whp(based on 1/4 mile times) with a tune and a vararam, I think that's a killer deal.
Last edited by SoDiezl350; 11-11-2011 at 10:24 AM.