walleyejack

I replaced my C5 shifter and box with a C6 ZO6 shifter and box that I bought off someone on the forum, well,after putting it in seemed ok on the floor, going down the street it sucked, would not go into reverse,no matter what i adjusted,took the box out and put my old one back in,they appear to be identical to me,seem to work for a while and now there is no way it will go into reverse,and there is no adjustement side to side as the V at the bottom of the box must sit in the channel on the side of the tunnel,so it only goes in one way. Also when it is in a gear the shifter can be moved side to side quit a bit,if it is in 1st gear,I can move the lever all the way over to 6 gear position,something is definatley not correct here. Any ideas would be appreciated. I guess it is the old stroy BUYER BEWARE. I emailed and pm d the seller but will not answer and is not on the board anymore,or changed names. At least he could have sent me some KY jelly when he sent the shifter.
Thanks Al

hotwheels57

First of all, go to C5 Tech (use search or search this forum) and find the thread(s) on "c5 shifter alignment procedure". Use those keywords. There are many of them. Some have actual images, others with images from the GM service manual. Here's one...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...uestion-3.html

C5 shifters and C6 shifters/"boxes" all use the same procedure. They're all interchangeable from '97 to current.

There's no bias springs in the oem shifters to be concerned with. Insure you have the plastic cup installed correctly on the bottom of the lever. If you did not transfer that cup, you will experience a very loose shifter. Insure that your rubber (?) bushings that mount the "box" above the torque tube have not deteriorated. Make sure that the large TORX bolts on the shifter rod out of the "box" have not loosened.

Do you have an "anti venom" washer on the transmission shift detent bolt by any chance? To thick of washer will cause sloppy shifter performance.

Follow the procedure. You'll need to remove the console surround again. You'll need the alignment pin or suitable tool of the same size (a punch or nail works).

See if that procedure helps, then followup in this thread...

bumble-z

I agree with hotwheels57.
Sounds as though the plastic/rubber cup at the bottom of the shifters shaft, that goes into the box is missing.

Suthunman

Make sure where the shift box is connected to the shift rod is tight.

walleyejack

I appreciate the info, I have done this 3 times, but now, will try it again with the flashlight in the hole idea, some good tips in there for sure. Won t be able to drive the car, but can at least try it in my garage,back and forth.
i will give an update when complete.
as for the plastic cup, it looks good,but i may take the one of my old shifter and slip it on,if there is a difference. No Venom. I am getting good at console removal and replace,got it down to 5 minutes or less to take apart and the same to put back in.
Thanks for you help Al

imavettegirl

leave the console off until you are sure shifter works.

noisy but easy.

bumble-z

i agree.
This too, would be a great time to put a male/female disconnect & longer wires that go to the gas lid pop up switch.
This would eliminate disturbing the switch in it's mounting position
(as sometimes happen) when removal & install of the console.
This way too, you can revove the console completely disconnected
from its wiring, w/out disturbing this "flimsy" mounted switch.
Good luck.

walleyejack

that would be off until May
but that is the only way I am going to get it lined up,drive, stop,wrench,drive some more, till it is perfect.

walleyejack

everything is in tact,took it all apart again,lossened it all, tightened it up, and kept testing it in garage as putting it back together, seems ok now, but will know for sure after a few miles down the road in the spring.