FNCG

I just bought a 26' enclosed trailer. On Sunday I tried to load my 2004 Z06 and the air dam hit the ramp almost immediately. I have looked at race Ramps, but there are so many different heights and degrees of incline. Does anyone know what degree of incline I need to avoid scraping the air dam?

Thanks....Dick

0Fred@ReverseLogic

I attached a few diagrams of the various Race Ramps with a trailer bed that is 19" high with 6' long ramps. Your trailer door is probably another 18" or so longer which will make things better.

I also attached a diagram of a gauge you can make to determine your approach angle. A ramp with less than a 7˚ incline will probably work.

Once you know the approach angle of the car you can eliminate any of the ramps that have a higher incline than the approach angle. Then I would select the highest ramp that meets the approach angle requirements. The higher the ramp, the less the breakover angle.

If you can't find a stock ramp that works I can help you spec out a custom ramp. Reverse Logic offers three ramps made from incline sections combined with a trailer ramp adapter. They are actually the incline sections from service ramps. The RLL-87-IS with a 6.8˚ initial incline is shown in one of the attached files. We also have an RLL-89-IS and RLL-99-IS ramp with initial inclines of 4˚ and 3.2˚ for very low cars.

Our ramps with the trailer ramp adapters are available with either a 2" deep or 3" deep step. We can also have the trailer ramps adapters made with a custom height step.

dgoetz

I have a frt splitter and the lowered C5. I placed a 4' block under the end of the Ramp door and then placed a straight edge on the ramp door and slid it out until it touched the ground. That gave me the height and length of the race ramp to order. I can't get into my trailer right now or I would give the size of the one i bought. but raising the ramp door 4"will do the trick. The most important part is to match the two angles of the door and the race ramp. The straight edge will do that nicely.

AU N EGL

may not be long enough.

Crank the trailer tongue jack up as high as you can.

Lower the back ramp door, and then add the extensions

I have 12 feet of ramp to get my car in, also have front splitter and 3" of ground clearance.

meldog21

I raise the back of my tow vehicle rather than trying to get ramps for the trailer. I use cheap standard plastic ramps from my(any) local auto parts store. I back my van's rear wheels onto the ramps which raises the trailer's front, and therefore lowers the rear of the trailer significantly. It makes loading easy, even with short ramps or a ramp/door.

Surprisingly, the cheap auto ramps support the back wheels of my van(6,000lbs) with the trailer attached. The plastic ramps are cheap, easy to move, and don't take up much space.

Dog

Chrisrokc

I have the race ramps and my car is lowered all the way on stock bolts. The front cradle is also lowered about 1/2-3/4 of an inch with my A&A kit. I have to remove the air dams on the left and right side before driving up the ramps.

Now these ramps are just the work ramps, not for a trailer.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Which model Race Ramps do you have? The trailer ramps tend to have a significantly lower incline angle.

Chrisrokc

I have the 67 inch XT Service ramps, it is a 10.75 angle. I would think that an angle of 6 would be optimal on my setup. It is almost to the point where my ramps will touch the front bumper.