The Saga of my Corvette's blown motor and rebuild... v.many pics
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The Saga of my Corvette's blown motor and rebuild... v.many pics
here's what I went thru since last year...
Gave the car to a buddy to detail it... told him to drive the car (trusted friend for a few years)... He calls me the next day says the night before the car just 'lost oil pressure and lit up like a christmas tree on the dash'... ok it did have a light tapping sound (which we thought was a bad/loose rocker) and I planned on fixing it but the car made power so I was going to wait til it was cleaned up to do it. I figured maybe that was it... The engine codes were for the PCM and the PCM wasn't responding to anything (HPTuners couldn't even find it). We figured it was bad and replace it. (this was all done at his shop 45 mins from me) - When that didn't work... we towed it home... then found this...
Valve spring on the driver's side head let go... Yikes
The valve was in 3 pieces, one piece of the stem in intake manifold, one piece of stem in the valve area, tulip of the valve wedged sideways in the seat. Head on that side was unusable. So I figured I was buying new heads (and a cam since it was gonna be apart), and that was it....
We pulled the head and found this...
Ok, I guess I need a piston...
**at this point we pulled the other head, and remember how we thought it was a rocker was moving around a bit making that tapping sound... but it was on the other head... basically the sound had nothing to do with the failure - the guy/friend I trusted over-rev'd the car, making the spring break and drop the valve into the cyl which did all the damage**
Then we pulled the block, we planned on just swapping out the one piston and rod...
But wait... we can't do that either...
Block was cracked... Oi...
Bought a used block for $200... and had it cleaned up - put the 7 good pistons/rods in it... and one good used piston/rod to replace the bad ones.
new cam, rod, and main bearings, new rings, etc
We found out the car had a ported oil pump so we re-used it. I sold the 220/220 cam that was in it. Bought a TSP MS4...
and installed the short-block and a new LS7 clutch kit/fly wheel with new slave cyl and remote bleeder (yes I painted the wheels and yes there's overspray on the tires - the tires are corded, and I plan on replacing them before driving so I didn't care about overspray - basically they're just there cuz they hold air and I needed something to roll the car onto the trailer with)
towed it to East Coast Supercharging in NJ and as soon as my heads come back from TEA - we'll measure and fly cut the pistons, measure for pushrod length. The it'll be coming home for final assembly and tuning. Probably 10 days out.
Here's the specs on the motor/car
Gave the car to a buddy to detail it... told him to drive the car (trusted friend for a few years)... He calls me the next day says the night before the car just 'lost oil pressure and lit up like a christmas tree on the dash'... ok it did have a light tapping sound (which we thought was a bad/loose rocker) and I planned on fixing it but the car made power so I was going to wait til it was cleaned up to do it. I figured maybe that was it... The engine codes were for the PCM and the PCM wasn't responding to anything (HPTuners couldn't even find it). We figured it was bad and replace it. (this was all done at his shop 45 mins from me) - When that didn't work... we towed it home... then found this...
Valve spring on the driver's side head let go... Yikes
The valve was in 3 pieces, one piece of the stem in intake manifold, one piece of stem in the valve area, tulip of the valve wedged sideways in the seat. Head on that side was unusable. So I figured I was buying new heads (and a cam since it was gonna be apart), and that was it....
We pulled the head and found this...
Ok, I guess I need a piston...
**at this point we pulled the other head, and remember how we thought it was a rocker was moving around a bit making that tapping sound... but it was on the other head... basically the sound had nothing to do with the failure - the guy/friend I trusted over-rev'd the car, making the spring break and drop the valve into the cyl which did all the damage**
Then we pulled the block, we planned on just swapping out the one piston and rod...
But wait... we can't do that either...
Block was cracked... Oi...
Bought a used block for $200... and had it cleaned up - put the 7 good pistons/rods in it... and one good used piston/rod to replace the bad ones.
new cam, rod, and main bearings, new rings, etc
We found out the car had a ported oil pump so we re-used it. I sold the 220/220 cam that was in it. Bought a TSP MS4...
and installed the short-block and a new LS7 clutch kit/fly wheel with new slave cyl and remote bleeder (yes I painted the wheels and yes there's overspray on the tires - the tires are corded, and I plan on replacing them before driving so I didn't care about overspray - basically they're just there cuz they hold air and I needed something to roll the car onto the trailer with)
towed it to East Coast Supercharging in NJ and as soon as my heads come back from TEA - we'll measure and fly cut the pistons, measure for pushrod length. The it'll be coming home for final assembly and tuning. Probably 10 days out.
Here's the specs on the motor/car
99 FRC Corvette
Bottom end -
A stock 346 rotating assembly rebuilt - honed, hot tanked, etc
-new rod, main, and cam bearings
-new rings of course
-all new gaskets
-Ported oil pump
-Powerbond 25% reduction balancer/pulley
Top end -
-MS4 cam
-TEA Stage 2 heads with 58cc combustion chamber and appropriate milling for 11.5-12.0 to 1 static and 8.4-8.65 to 1 dynamic compression ratios
-0.040 headgaskets
-Stock rockers with trunion upgrade
-Hardened pushrods (will have to measure size)
-Ported FAST 102 intake (ported by vengeance racing)
-Breathless intake/duct
-1 3/4 headers and 3 in catless exhaust
I know the pistons will need to be flycut a bit - not sure how much tho, we'll have to measure
It'll also has an LS7 clutch and the car has 4.10s already (won't matter much but I'll say it here anyway)
Bottom end -
A stock 346 rotating assembly rebuilt - honed, hot tanked, etc
-new rod, main, and cam bearings
-new rings of course
-all new gaskets
-Ported oil pump
-Powerbond 25% reduction balancer/pulley
Top end -
-MS4 cam
-TEA Stage 2 heads with 58cc combustion chamber and appropriate milling for 11.5-12.0 to 1 static and 8.4-8.65 to 1 dynamic compression ratios
-0.040 headgaskets
-Stock rockers with trunion upgrade
-Hardened pushrods (will have to measure size)
-Ported FAST 102 intake (ported by vengeance racing)
-Breathless intake/duct
-1 3/4 headers and 3 in catless exhaust
I know the pistons will need to be flycut a bit - not sure how much tho, we'll have to measure
It'll also has an LS7 clutch and the car has 4.10s already (won't matter much but I'll say it here anyway)
#4
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That quite a project.
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Heck of a project. Good luck getting everything put back together and getting the car back on the road. And next time, don't let your friend drive the car.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks guys
I won't - as far as the question about "will you make him help out on the cost?" - as I was asked on another forum I posted this on...
I didn't ask him to at first because I figured the tapping (which ended up being a bad rocker end cap - rocker was just moving but was still working - was on the other cyl head from the broken spring) was what caused it.
Then we found out it was an obvious over-rev... I was already in the middle of spending the cash so I went ahead and did it.
Since then, about $5000 later... I decided when its finished I'll talk to him and basically say "I know you won't admit it, but you broke the car... I'd appreciate if you detailed it as we agreed originally before it was broke free of cost and we'll call it even" - If he doesn't agree, I'll decide then whether I want to light the kid up on all the forums he posts his high-end details on. He was/is a friend, depends on how he handles himself honestly.
I'm not one to ruin friendships over money/********, but if he blows me
off or says anything like "prove it" or something like that... It'll REALLY **** me off.
I didn't ask him to at first because I figured the tapping (which ended up being a bad rocker end cap - rocker was just moving but was still working - was on the other cyl head from the broken spring) was what caused it.
Then we found out it was an obvious over-rev... I was already in the middle of spending the cash so I went ahead and did it.
Since then, about $5000 later... I decided when its finished I'll talk to him and basically say "I know you won't admit it, but you broke the car... I'd appreciate if you detailed it as we agreed originally before it was broke free of cost and we'll call it even" - If he doesn't agree, I'll decide then whether I want to light the kid up on all the forums he posts his high-end details on. He was/is a friend, depends on how he handles himself honestly.
I'm not one to ruin friendships over money/********, but if he blows me
off or says anything like "prove it" or something like that... It'll REALLY **** me off.
#7
Race Director
Thanks guys
I won't - as far as the question about "will you make him help out on the cost?" - as I was asked on another forum I posted this on...
I didn't ask him to at first because I figured the tapping (which ended up being a bad rocker end cap - rocker was just moving but was still working - was on the other cyl head from the broken spring) was what caused it.
Then we found out it was an obvious over-rev... I was already in the middle of spending the cash so I went ahead and did it.
Since then, about $5000 later... I decided when its finished I'll talk to him and basically say "I know you won't admit it, but you broke the car... I'd appreciate if you detailed it as we agreed originally before it was broke free of cost and we'll call it even" - If he doesn't agree, I'll decide then whether I want to light the kid up on all the forums he posts his high-end details on. He was/is a friend, depends on how he handles himself honestly.
I'm not one to ruin friendships over money/********, but if he blows me
off or says anything like "prove it" or something like that... It'll REALLY **** me off.
I won't - as far as the question about "will you make him help out on the cost?" - as I was asked on another forum I posted this on...
I didn't ask him to at first because I figured the tapping (which ended up being a bad rocker end cap - rocker was just moving but was still working - was on the other cyl head from the broken spring) was what caused it.
Then we found out it was an obvious over-rev... I was already in the middle of spending the cash so I went ahead and did it.
Since then, about $5000 later... I decided when its finished I'll talk to him and basically say "I know you won't admit it, but you broke the car... I'd appreciate if you detailed it as we agreed originally before it was broke free of cost and we'll call it even" - If he doesn't agree, I'll decide then whether I want to light the kid up on all the forums he posts his high-end details on. He was/is a friend, depends on how he handles himself honestly.
I'm not one to ruin friendships over money/********, but if he blows me
off or says anything like "prove it" or something like that... It'll REALLY **** me off.
Good luck and keep us posted.....
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks sir - my buddy and I are planning on making a video for the top end assembly, and then we'll do one for the dyno/tuning session.
#10
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Exactly how did you determine it was an "overev?" You stated it had a tapping sound already which indicates the spring was most likely already broken.It just finally dropped the valve,which could happen at idle.Dont blame your buddy for something you neglected.
#11
I would have to agree ... dont let a 'buddy' drive it ,unless its a buddy you know will NOT abuse it. I have 'crept' an engine back home with a broken valve spring before - pulled that plug - snaked a small rubber hose in the cylinder - turned over by hand ,until the piston came up & held the valve in place. Then you can replace the spring - pull out the hose - finish up & your on the road again !!
I would have dont some better pistons ,since you had it down that far - but if $$$ was an issue - you did good. For future note - you could have pulled the cracked cylinder sleeve ... if no damage to actual block. Happy wrenching - good luck !!
I would have dont some better pistons ,since you had it down that far - but if $$$ was an issue - you did good. For future note - you could have pulled the cracked cylinder sleeve ... if no damage to actual block. Happy wrenching - good luck !!
#13
Burning Brakes
Thanks guys
I won't - as far as the question about "will you make him help out on the cost?" - as I was asked on another forum I posted this on...
I didn't ask him to at first because I figured the tapping (which ended up being a bad rocker end cap - rocker was just moving but was still working - was on the other cyl head from the broken spring) was what caused it.
Then we found out it was an obvious over-rev... I was already in the middle of spending the cash so I went ahead and did it.
Since then, about $5000 later... I decided when its finished I'll talk to him and basically say "I know you won't admit it, but you broke the car... I'd appreciate if you detailed it as we agreed originally before it was broke free of cost and we'll call it even" - If he doesn't agree, I'll decide then whether I want to light the kid up on all the forums he posts his high-end details on. He was/is a friend, depends on how he handles himself honestly.
I'm not one to ruin friendships over money/********, but if he blows me
off or says anything like "prove it" or something like that... It'll REALLY **** me off.
I won't - as far as the question about "will you make him help out on the cost?" - as I was asked on another forum I posted this on...
I didn't ask him to at first because I figured the tapping (which ended up being a bad rocker end cap - rocker was just moving but was still working - was on the other cyl head from the broken spring) was what caused it.
Then we found out it was an obvious over-rev... I was already in the middle of spending the cash so I went ahead and did it.
Since then, about $5000 later... I decided when its finished I'll talk to him and basically say "I know you won't admit it, but you broke the car... I'd appreciate if you detailed it as we agreed originally before it was broke free of cost and we'll call it even" - If he doesn't agree, I'll decide then whether I want to light the kid up on all the forums he posts his high-end details on. He was/is a friend, depends on how he handles himself honestly.
I'm not one to ruin friendships over money/********, but if he blows me
off or says anything like "prove it" or something like that... It'll REALLY **** me off.
Course any body who spray paints rings on their wheels and doesn't care about over spray on their tires is about out there! You did a lot more work (obviously planned work) on the engine and want come back on your friend for acknowledment that it was his fault???
Come on man you want to get a free detail because your car broke on him? Thats going to make things good with you?
My advice let it go! Keep your friend, you may break down again with another piston or something else and may need to call him for some help, don't burn bridges. Cars break and can be easily fixed, friendships are a bit harder to mend, if at all!
Good luck with the car and hope everything turns out good in your favor!
#16
I would have at least told him ,"Take it easy on it - the motor needs attention".
But ultimately - I think most people get into a vette & think [press down on the gas -n- see what it'll do!!] Ive had this experience with a motorcycle when I was a kid.
But ultimately - I think most people get into a vette & think [press down on the gas -n- see what it'll do!!] Ive had this experience with a motorcycle when I was a kid.
#17
One other thing - so many people think 'rev it as high as you can - it'll "go" faster' ... WRONG !! Most of the time your h.p. falls after you hit 90% of your r.m.p.
You will get better performance if you shift before hitting red-line. Set your rev-limiter conservatively.
I own a C-6 w/a 402",procharged engine & set my shift light @ 5500 r.p.m. - [it goes past that so fast anyway]. With power ,must come brains - or you will pay $$$ !!
You will get better performance if you shift before hitting red-line. Set your rev-limiter conservatively.
I own a C-6 w/a 402",procharged engine & set my shift light @ 5500 r.p.m. - [it goes past that so fast anyway]. With power ,must come brains - or you will pay $$$ !!
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Good Point !
One other thing - so many people think 'rev it as high as you can - it'll "go" faster' ... WRONG !! Most of the time your h.p. falls after you hit 90% of your r.m.p.
You will get better performance if you shift before hitting red-line. Set your rev-limiter conservatively.
I own a C-6 w/a 402",procharged engine & set my shift light @ 5500 r.p.m. - [it goes past that so fast anyway]. With power ,must come brains - or you will pay $$$ !!
You will get better performance if you shift before hitting red-line. Set your rev-limiter conservatively.
I own a C-6 w/a 402",procharged engine & set my shift light @ 5500 r.p.m. - [it goes past that so fast anyway]. With power ,must come brains - or you will pay $$$ !!
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