driver68

Pulling #44 relay, as I don't want the sentinal light thing. I have a Canadian car, so have to turn it off this way. The #44 "fuse" is actually quite a large relay right? Does it just pull straight out? I tried pulling it out just by hand, but it wasn't budging. Are you supposed to use pliers to simply pull straight out?

Love my new C5. I'll have to post some pictures later.
Very very clean 2003 with only 35k miles.

Gary

driver68

Yes, I was in the correct compartment. It was just that I was expecting a small fuse, not a large relay. And I thought I would be able to pull right out.

DeeGee

I did the DRL mod a long time ago and had to pull 2 relays. I remember them being quite a tight fit.

FWIW another Canadian member posted a TS fix some time ago. I'll dig it out and post it up for info.

DeeGee

Disable the Twilight Sentinel on Canadian Model C5's

It turned out to be VERY easy to do. The only minor difficulties I encountered were:

a) due to the limited distance I could pull the sensor and its lead from the wiring harness out to facilitate working on it (about 4"), and

b) the fact that one has to work in fairly close quarters down low at the base of the windshield. To make this easier, I moved the seat(s) as far forward as possible when actually doing the work.

Following information obtained on the forum, I did it as follows:

1. I used a CREDIT CARD to 'work'/loosen and 'pop out' the dash top defroster grill.

2. The Twilight Sentinel (TS) sensor itself comes in a base/housing that plugs into a female socket on the left hand underside of the defroster grill. It simply screws into its defroster grill socket, requiring only a 1/4 clockwise turn to 'lock' it into place like (eg.) a tail light bulb into its socket.

3. Before I did ANYTHING (even unscrewed the sensor from the grill), I tied some *black* fishing line (about 4 feet worth) around the ACTUAL WIRE connecting the sensor to the harness, ***JUST IN CASE the whole thing should accidentally slip down into the dash during the process***, so I could pull it up again... (THAT WOULD BE A PAIN - the head lights would then ALWAYS be on when the car was running, and trying to fish it out again looked like it would NOT be easy...).

4. I THEN unscrewed the sensor from the defroster grill.

5. THEN, the sensor itself simply plugs into a male connector on the end of the wiring harness lead, so I unplugged the sensor from its harness connector. (I used a small jeweller's screwdriver to release a clip to allow the parts to be separated).

6. I then reinstalled the (now disconnected) sensor back into the defroster grill (for 'looks' only, since it's now non-functional).

7. Next, I bent the leads on a 4.7K OHM ½ Watt resistor that I picked up today (6-pak for $1.49; needed only one), and plugged the resistor leads into the contacts on the end of the male wiring harness connector. (Real nice fit - tight but not too tight).

8. I then taped the resistor/connector up to prevent shorts and provide further insurance against them coming apart, using black electrical tape.

9. I then taped the connector to the sensor housing, the objective being to help ensure that it wouldn't flop around/rattle/make noise if simply left loose.

10. I then looped and tied the fishing line through a couple of bars in the defroster grill, leaving only about 4" of slack to its tie point back on the wiring harness, and cut off the surplus line with scissors - JUST IN CASE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE SHOULD EVER SOFTEN/COME LOOSE FROM HEAT IN THE CAR and the resistor/lead might decide to separate from the sensor and drop down into the dash as mentioned above and cause noise/be difficult to retrieve.

11. I then reinstalled the defroster grill and 'voila'.

Base upon admittedly limited testing (since I just finished the job and only tested things out an hour or so ago in my garage), I now (seem to) have TOTAL CONTROL over when I want the headlights up/on or down/off, regardless of ambient light levels.
(***Again, based on my limited testing to date*** - although I simply followed information posted many times on the forum specifically about the 4.7K ½ Watt resistor) and can't see WHY this 'resistor-subbing' should not work or screw anything ELSE up. As far as the 'computer' knows, it's simply always daylight now...).

Maybe the above will help/encourage others who wish to do the same thing. It only took me 20 minutes or so to do the whole job and I didn't even try to rush.

QuicksilverC5

high wire

I thought the twilight sentinel was an option that could be turned off in the DIC. I know it can be deleted with a Tech II.

DeeGee

Not on a Canadian car - no control via the DIC. Can't remember whether it can be turned off with a Tech II but I don't think so. I'm sure a Canadian owner will comment

Dag Skagney

Yes, it is a larger relay than the size of a fuse. It is a very tight fit. You probably will not be able to pull it out with finger power alone. A pair of pliers to gently work it out worked for me. I think I may have put some tape around it to protect against the jaws of the pliers. I didn't break anything and the result is just what I was hoping for. Good luck

andy46

A canadian car cannot be turned off at the DIC, the only way to disable it, is to pull out the relay, it is a bit of a challenge to get a hold of, but it does just pull straight out.
You don't need to cut off any sensors, pulling the relay works just fine.

high wire

Ok , got it. It is a required function up there ?

Chilliwack vettes

Yes. But you don't get pulled over for not having it - at least I've never been nor heard of anyone else been pulled over. The C5 corner amber lights are always on anyways so oncoming traffic will always see you.


Peter

high wire

Wat about disconnecting with a Tech II ?

driver68

Got the relay pulled. All works perfect now!

Gary

high wire

Does anything else get disabled ?

Midlyf

I completely agree.

My C5 is Canadian, and pulling the #44 relay took only a minute, saved about $300, and disabled the Sentinel function with no effect on any other systems.