99frccorvette

just want some honest opinion on oils ppl are using are there corvettes now a days ....
Being that Mobil 1 no longer has Zinc in it i wanted to know if anyone stop using it and what oil did the change to.

JR-01

I started using this last spring. Drove 6000 miles and didn't use a drop of oil.

Sinister-one

I'm back and forth between Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge full synthetic....

JR-01

I might try Royal Purple. Is it worth the extra money?

Dcollins3208

Same here. JR-01, I believe I saw an oil analysis somewhere on the forum and Royal Purple was ranked lower on the list than I initially would think it would be. I'll see if I can find it

JR-01

I figured that since I only change the oil once a year I might as well use the best for a few dollars more..
What really is the best oil?

Cheesecake 07

There is some truth that oil is losing zddp for the wrong reasons(emission equipment protection is high on the list).

However on a street driven, stock internal LSx...regular M1, Castrol, Pennzoil etc etc are probably more than adequate.

If you run high oil temps for extended period(road course) or have modified your valve train(high spring pressures, aggressive cam)...you should research and re-evaluate what oil your running.

I have a fairly aggressive heads/cam set up. I run Amsoil 10w-30 ZROD, for the stout additive pack.

Off the shelf....M1 HM 5w/10w-30 are stout oils on paper. The "high mileage" designation appears to be how Mobil tip toes around zddp limits in 30w oil.

Mr.Bill

I been using Royal Purple for about 4 years now, Couple of things I noticed.
1. The engine ran smother with RP.
2. The engine mechanics were a lot quitter.
In my opinion it is worth it.

Dcollins3208

Here's the link I promised. You have to scroll down pretty far to get to the rankings
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Keep in mind some of the oils have had an additive added to them by the tester. He announces which ones he has done so to in the rankings.

M1 5w30 is #10
Royal Purple 5w30 is #67
0w30 Castrol Edge is #109

smiley callender

I use 10w30 moible 1 sence it was new no probles no burning oil, nothing. You chose what oil you want in your type of weather. 99 vette.

JR-01

I think I might try it next spring. My '01 is a little noisy before it warms up.

1blkc4

run all amsoil fluids in everything been doing it for years

Barndog Buddha

Mobil 1 5w-30 in my Vette.
I have used Mobile 1 in various viscosities in various vehicles for 30 years with no issues.

racebum

it's not that it has no zinc, it's that it has less zinc

however modern base stocks are better than what was on the market 2 decades ago

use the mobil high mileage if you want 1990s levels of zddp and a modern base stock. there is also a bit more seal conditioner in high mileage which is great for cars over 10 years old

mobil 1 high mileage is a great bang for the buck oil. unless you need the heat resistance of a group 5 ester oil like redline which also has loads of zppd, mobil 1 is half the cost

jackthelad

Noticed in my other world of cars - turbo Subarus, a lot of people are running "diesel" lubes like Shell Rotella. They tend to be more loaded with additives to withstand the shock loadings from very high compression ratios. And 5-40 is a commonly available specification. Bit wary myself, though I know Porsche recommended Rotella back in their air cooled days. And Rotella claims to be suitable for turbo gasoline engines.

However, my now 17 year old 1998 coupe has run quite happily on M1 from new, and oil consumption between changes is still zip, so no reason to change.

C66 Racing

It's not just Mobil 1 that doesn't have as much zinc as it used to...

GM specified a current spec API synthetic 5w30 meeting GM Standard 4718M for the C5/C5 Z06. That spec was superceded several years ago by GM dexos1. But, more importantly the current API spec has changed many times over the decade+ since the LS1/6 was designed.

Phosphorus, along with zinc, in a compound called ZDDP, or or zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate, forms an oil's primary anti-wear additive. Unfortunately, phosphorus slowly poisons the cats and prevents the catalytic exchange that allows them to function properly. To ensure auto companies could meet the EPA's 100k+ emissions requirements, the API has slowly been dropping the limit on phosphorus.

From 94-97, the API SH spec allowed up to 1200 ppm phosphorus for 5w30 and 10w30 and didn't address other 30 grade viscosity like 0w30. In 97, API SJ dropped the limit to 1000 ppm, but still did not address 0w30. In 01, API SL kept 1000 ppm phosphorus, but added 0w30 to the spec. In 04, API SM further dropped the limit to 800 ppm, but for the first time set a floor at 600 ppm and advertised that oil's were better. Essentially they were capping how much phosphorus the better oils could have and mandating the lowest amount the cheapest oils must have. The current API SN spec still has the band 600-800 ppm phosphorus.

So, any oil labeled to meet the current API SN spec will be limited to 800 ppm max phosphorus. This impacts how well it will be able to perform in anti-wear, such as might be seen in your bearings under heavy load.

To see how ZDDP impacts oil performance, the High Temp High Shear (HTHS) viscosity of these oils may be indicative. The HTHS viscosity is a measure of the oil's viscosity at 300F under heavy shear, as might be seen in your bearings.

Mobil 1 10w30 - 3.0
Mobil 1 5w30 - 3.1
AMSOIL Sig Series 5w30 - 3.2
AMSOIL Sig Series 10w30 - 3.2
----------------------------------------------
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30: 3.3
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 - 3.5
AMSOIL ZROD 10w30 - 3.6

The top four comply with API SN limit of 800 ppm phosphorus. The Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 and 10w30 have 1000 ppm phosphorus, 1100 ppm zinc. The AMSOIL ZROD 10w30 has 1320 ppm phosphorus and 1440 ppm zinc. As can be seen, those with more ZDDP have a higher HTHS than those that comply with API SN specs.

The AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 is very similar to AMSOIL's Dominator Racing 10w30 I use in my 02 Z06 at the track, which has 1474 ppm phosphorus and 1575 ppm zinc and a HTHS of 3.6. But the Z-ROD has sufficient detergent/dispersant for 3-5k miles (or one year, whichever first) oil change intervals whereas I change my race oil at about every 500 miles or so.

If you do opt for a 10w30, be very careful with oil warmup. My own personal thumbrule is low throttle, low rpm until the oil is at least 150F.

AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
(Note: doesn't meet API SN, dexos1 or GM4718M specs)

More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.

DevilDog II

Engine oil is like car wax, we all have our favorites. I ran Mobil I and Royal Purple in my car for several years, and switched to Amsoil about 3 years ago. I also run Amsoil product in our daily drivers and lawn equipment. I'd be lying if I said I can tell a difference, but I did a lot of research and decided to switch to Amsoil.

itzza427

IMO unless you are pushing your car really hard any BRAND NAME full synthetic should be adequate. The top brand names aren't going to cheap out too much and ruin their reputation and the oil will do it's job even with "spirited" driving. We have to remember that the OLM has a large number of parameters that it monitors and factors in things like temp,RPM and lots of others. Bottom line if you drive short trips or run the heck out of it it's going to factor it in and shorten the oil life. Now tracking is another deal that I would use a more performance oriented oil.

DDaaryl

i don't get caught up in all the marketing, just buy full synthetic, what ever is on sale when I need it. I've even been known to mix brands and the vert has not complained yet getting one oil change every two years

TXGS507

I run M1 10-30 in my 414ci stroker.... wouldn't run anything else...