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had the car to the track for the 2nd time and managed to pull of a 11.48 @ 120mph
mods: h/c/i full bolt'on 3.73 et street bias ply
temps in the mid 60's humidity 75% track elevation 712 Barometric Pressure 30.15
still learning the car having a problem with releasing the clutch trying to slip it but the monster stage 2 it more or less a on/off switch and when i take off i'm getting pushed back in the seat and its pulling me back enough where my foot is letting out the clutch
any one got any tips or advice i'm all ear's
slips, reaction times suck was not worried about them i was just trying to learn the take off
thanks i'm pretty please I know it will do better i need more seat time at the track! its been consistent high 1.6x low 1.7 60ft's unless i goof up
Originally Posted by SKMCOBRA
What rear tires were you running?
M/T Et Street (bias ply) 26x11.50x16 around 15psi hot, tires are doing a decent job but its getting a little squarely on the big end though, I have been just running my re760's in the front looking in to GTO spares for the front to swap to bais ply's front runners hopefully it will cut down on the sway and maybe drop a tenth or two
Put an M&H race master bias ply on the front and it will track very straight with the bias rears.
I was running those same 26x11.5 ETs at 149 mph and straight as an arrow.
Your car is running damn good and the 1.60 60' is very respectable for a stick car. Keep practicing but don't push too hard or you'll start breaking stuff.. Don't let it wheel hop, it WILL break.
That's the way they are with certain clutches. They come with a 7/8" body unless you order the 3/4.
can you please be more detailed? I dont under stand what you mean about 7/8" & 3/4" this "body" if i do have the 7/8 and swap to the 3/4 would it give me release so i can slip the clutch?
Originally Posted by ajrothm
Put an M&H race master bias ply on the front and it will track very straight with the bias rears.
I was running those same 26x11.5 ETs at 149 mph and straight as an arrow.
Your car is running damn good and the 1.60 60' is very respectable for a stick car. Keep practicing but don't push too hard or you'll start breaking stuff.. Don't let it wheel hop, it WILL break.
thanks!
whats the best size to go with in the front?
i'm not getting any hop that i can tell? the spin i am getting is more like the tires slipping a little as its digging in the 1.600 60' though was a up 4k / low 5k rpm let out (fast slip) it bit hard felt like a complete different car from the higher 1.6x 60's I dont really think i'll be doing much take off's at that high of a rpm's, I was trying to figure out a way to sit so when i get pushed back i can hold the clutch a little longer but failed bad lol
The tick master cyl plain blows in the standard 7/8 bore ( what the kit comes with) I drove it for a while and makes any clutch like a light switch. Switched to the smaller 3/4" bore Titon master cyl and its perfect drives like stock. Way easier to slip.
with the smaller bore are you having any problems with Hi rpm shifts? I got use to the firmness dont even pay attention to it any more unless i'm in gridlock then my foot reminds me its a tick master
after I wrecked my 03 c5z I bought this car it already had the engine built (h/c/i) when i got it the last owner told me 430rwhp 400rwtq but I swapped the fast 92mm it came with for my ported fast92/ported ls2 TB then installed my lv5 PRM trans and my built diff with 3.73 out of my 03 so not sure if the dyno numbers are still the same? when it was dyno'd it had a LS7 clutch witch i was told rob's 10rwhp? so right now i'm guessing 430 to 450 rear wheel Hp and 400ish torque
High rpm shifts are fine with my old mantic single and my now rps carbon twin using the 3/4 tilton. Even a new oem master is fine long as the slave is good and clutch isn't slipping. I went as far as wrapping my headers were they go pass the bell housing in an effort to keep heat away. I bleed my clutch fluid all the time.
nice job!
with your setup, what's your launch rpm? was it a decent prepped track?
that 1.60 60ft was around 5k launch, I launched the car from 3.5k and up and it was all 1.6x 1.7x track prep was "ok" it was just a test & tune day so it was not the best, I found i got better 60ft times with less of a burnout
launch rpm & tire pressure is what was making the difference I started with 20psi hot and worked my way down to 15ish psi hot as I launched @ higher rpm's might have done better with less psi but slick sway had me worried and never dropped less then 15psi
keep in mind i'm not a pro driver and only have 16 passes total with this car and I was lifting a very little in between shifts I tried to flat shift it but was getting locked out so i gave up on that
can you please be more detailed? I dont under stand what you mean about 7/8" & 3/4" this "body" if i do have the 7/8 and swap to the 3/4 would it give me release so i can slip the clutch?
thanks!
whats the best size to go with in the front?
i'm not getting any hop that i can tell? the spin i am getting is more like the tires slipping a little as its digging in the 1.600 60' though was a up 4k / low 5k rpm let out (fast slip) it bit hard felt like a complete different car from the higher 1.6x 60's I dont really think i'll be doing much take off's at that high of a rpm's, I was trying to figure out a way to sit so when i get pushed back i can hold the clutch a little longer but failed bad lol
Sorry, I only use a pad during the weekend, and it's a pain to type on mine. I see the question was answered, and just FYI, Tick makes them with a 3/4" bore, too, with a Tilton body. BTW, you would get better results using a factory slave (supposedly improved) from a '04, and get much better results than a standard Tick. (aftermarket clutch)
08-28-2015, 02:46 AM
new personal best 1/4 mile time!
