Fixed the sticking clutch at high RPM
03-27-2016, 03:21 PM
#1
Fixed the sticking clutch at high RPM
Symptom: when revved to 5000+, the clutch pedal would stick to the floor.
Attempts to fix, unsuccessful: Ranger method and modified ranger method with small OD tube and syringe. Completely useless. Don't even bother. I've always kept my fluid crystal clear using these methods, but the sticking clutch still persisted.
Fix: Bleed the damn thing. Even though my fluid was crystal clear up at top, the crap that came outta the slave cylinder was PITCH BLACK. Also very silty. After bleeding it the car is like new again, NO issues with sticking clutch even after I red lined through several gears. Note, that I also insulated the clutch line.
I also installed a speed bleeder while I was down there. Note that I did NOT drop the drivetrain or even tunnel plate. I have long tubes also. It required fabbing some homemade tools, but I got the job done and no leaks during testing. I managed to torque it pretty tight, but I still hate the fact that it uses a crush washer. If there's interest, I will use my friend's CNC lathe to create proper bleeder adapters that will seal on the conical sealing face, like it does stock. IE, not rely on a dumb crush washer. Installing the speed bleeder is NOT easy, and requires small hands and many hours.
Attempts to fix, unsuccessful: Ranger method and modified ranger method with small OD tube and syringe. Completely useless. Don't even bother. I've always kept my fluid crystal clear using these methods, but the sticking clutch still persisted.
Fix: Bleed the damn thing. Even though my fluid was crystal clear up at top, the crap that came outta the slave cylinder was PITCH BLACK. Also very silty. After bleeding it the car is like new again, NO issues with sticking clutch even after I red lined through several gears. Note, that I also insulated the clutch line.
I also installed a speed bleeder while I was down there. Note that I did NOT drop the drivetrain or even tunnel plate. I have long tubes also. It required fabbing some homemade tools, but I got the job done and no leaks during testing. I managed to torque it pretty tight, but I still hate the fact that it uses a crush washer. If there's interest, I will use my friend's CNC lathe to create proper bleeder adapters that will seal on the conical sealing face, like it does stock. IE, not rely on a dumb crush washer. Installing the speed bleeder is NOT easy, and requires small hands and many hours.
Last edited by jz2003; 03-27-2016 at 03:27 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by jz2003:
Bill Curlee (03-29-2016),
black match box (03-28-2016)
03-27-2016, 05:19 PM
#2
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on getting it solved. Surely this will help someone having a similar issue.
03-29-2016, 01:29 PM
#4
Race Director
I can't believe how they layout the C5 to usually require removing the cats in order to bleed the clutch. I have a 05 GTO w/ similar drivetrain: While it's hard to find the bleeder valve (b/c it cannot be seen, you have to feel for it), it's pretty easy to bleed. On the Corvette, I have to use the ranger method. (I will say ranger method worked well for me, although too many iterations.)
03-29-2016, 04:03 PM
#5
I can't believe how they layout the C5 to usually require removing the cats in order to bleed the clutch. I have a 05 GTO w/ similar drivetrain: While it's hard to find the bleeder valve (b/c it cannot be seen, you have to feel for it), it's pretty easy to bleed. On the Corvette, I have to use the ranger method. (I will say ranger method worked well for me, although too many iterations.)
If you have long tubes like I do, you have to remove unbolt the headers as well.
So to bleed, you have to pull the alternator, coil packs, spark plugs, midpipe, and unbolt headers. Thanks Corvette engineers...