Need performance upgrade advice!! Which of these 2 options?
11-13-2016, 02:16 PM
#21
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11-13-2016, 02:21 PM
#22
Melting Slicks
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Ok, before you start doing mods, based off of this, I'd STRONGLY suggest researching the platform and learning about the motor. ALL LS motors are six bolt main setups, four straight vertical and two in from the sides. You're referencing the Gen 1 and 2 architecture which is totally irrelevant to the LS motor family. Do some reading, educate yourself, then make your decisions.
11-13-2016, 02:29 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
Ok, before you start doing mods, based off of this, I'd STRONGLY suggest researching the platform and learning about the motor. ALL LS motors are six bolt main setups, four straight vertical and two in from the sides. You're referencing the Gen 1 and 2 architecture which is totally irrelevant to the LS motor family. Do some reading, educate yourself, then make your decisions.
11-14-2016, 08:44 AM
#24
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11-14-2016, 10:56 AM
#25
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C5 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C5 of the Year Finalist
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2015 C5 of the Year Finalist
I Believe In The Beer Fairy
I'll be the first to admit I'm not an expert on engines. I'm a very good driver (I used to drive my friend's 11 second 2005 Pontiac GTO all the time and never had a problem), and can handle a Corvette running 12's (or high, high 11's), but I don't know about how to build it or the best setup to get there. Hence, I'll research the opinions of others who seem knowledgeable and pay a professional to build it for me. With that being said, I am not solely going to accept the advice of the builder as they may provide some subjective advice if it is in their best interest. I always look for multiple opinions as I've found that is the best way to reach the best conclusion. If you can provide links to any sites on learning about engines (and LS1s in particular), I'll definitely check it out (the same goes for any books). I just think you really don't have to be an engine expert to modify a car to be faster if you're paying a pro to do it for you. In the end, engine expert or not, the result is the same...I'm Just trying to figure out the best way to get there.
11-15-2016, 12:36 AM
#26
Drifting
Wear and tear from a cam is dictated by the lobe profiles, lift, ramp rate, etc. Bear in mind that PLENTY of cars put medium sized cams in and live long happy lives. Others, not so much. It's part of the game you play when modifying a car.
I think if you went with GOOD headers, meaning LG, Kooks, or American Racing (just my opinion), a solid CAI like a Vararam or Callaway Honker, and something like a TSP224R cam kit, and a set of ported LS6 heads, you'd make about 400 RWHP with a VERY tame setup without a bunch of headaches and not having to sacrifice much at all.
I think if you went with GOOD headers, meaning LG, Kooks, or American Racing (just my opinion), a solid CAI like a Vararam or Callaway Honker, and something like a TSP224R cam kit, and a set of ported LS6 heads, you'd make about 400 RWHP with a VERY tame setup without a bunch of headaches and not having to sacrifice much at all.
BOOM! exactly this. I'm doing the same thing, only going .228/.232, and stage 2.5 5.3L TSP heads, and that will put me around 430whp with an A4.
11-15-2016, 12:49 AM
#27
My best buddy has pretty much the same build as you, only 6spd. His car moves very well and drives fantastic with a tune that Jason loaded up. My friend is a sales rep there and went with this setup....so you know it works. He could have done any combo and went with a nice and simple combo. It flat out works.
11-15-2016, 02:05 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '18
I went through nearly the EXACT same decisions last year:
2000 M6 with 17K miles on it, that I plan to keep forever since I bought the car from my Father:
Build thread and details:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-started.html
Basically, I did everything short of forced induction, including proper decisions IN CASE I want to do F/I in the future. My performance results are in the build thread above.
I could not be happier.
2000 M6 with 17K miles on it, that I plan to keep forever since I bought the car from my Father:
Build thread and details:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-started.html
Basically, I did everything short of forced induction, including proper decisions IN CASE I want to do F/I in the future. My performance results are in the build thread above.
I could not be happier.
11-21-2016, 01:09 PM
#30
Drifting
I went through nearly the EXACT same decisions last year:
2000 M6 with 17K miles on it, that I plan to keep forever since I bought the car from my Father:
Build thread and details:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-started.html
Basically, I did everything short of forced induction, including proper decisions IN CASE I want to do F/I in the future. My performance results are in the build thread above.
I could not be happier.
2000 M6 with 17K miles on it, that I plan to keep forever since I bought the car from my Father:
Build thread and details:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-started.html
Basically, I did everything short of forced induction, including proper decisions IN CASE I want to do F/I in the future. My performance results are in the build thread above.
I could not be happier.
11-21-2016, 01:10 PM
#31
Race Director
I went the H/C/FAST90 route, and ended up supercharging it anyway. Several components weren't optimal for 'charging, so, basically a waste of time and money. With your budget, and driving habits, I strongly recommend the SC path. Yes, for optimum acceleration from a dead start, you need gears and a converter, but for roll ons, and street driving , not so much. With a centri SC (I recommend A&A) it's easily upgradable, and if you decide to drag race, you can then upgrade the drivetrain, and raise the boost. With a V3, and a 4" pulley, you'll get about 6 lbs of boost, and it comes on softer, which helps ease stress on the drivetrain.
11-21-2016, 01:45 PM
#32
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2023 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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I have a completely stock 2000 C5 auto with 20,000 miles. My plan is to likely keep it for 20+ years (no--I'm not kidding). I only drive it about 30-75 miles per week, mostly over the weekend. I just bought the car over the summer, but once spring rolls around (I'm in PA--too much salt in the winter to drive it), I may drive it to work 1-2 days per week, which means I'll probably be putting 100 miles per week on it from March-November...so total mileage of about 4,500 miles per year roughly. I am looking for good gas mileage (currently around 27 mpg with stock 2.73s) and same reliability (or similar) to what it is now. So, I am debating putting a few thousand into it for performance mods. My goal is roughly 430-450 very reliable, not going to kill the engine, transmission, or differential, crank horsepower. My options are either:
A.) East Coast Supercharger kit with restrictor plate at about 5 psi, which should be 450 crank hp (or so I'm told) and Corsa Xtreme axle back exhaust
B.) Combination of long tube headers, FAST intake, Callaway Honker, upgraded throttle body, Corsa Xtreme axle back exhaust (I'm thinking all these modifications should get me to 415 hp at the crank (?)) for slightly less than the supercharger from ECS...and maybe, a mild cam for ~25 more crank hp
The thing is, I am completely undecided, and in all honesty, don't know all the advantages and disadvantages of both. I love the idea of the supercharger, but I'm told my block has a 2 bolt main vs later LS1 Corvettes with a 4 bolt main, which may kill the engine with a supercharger. Any truth to that? What is a 2 bolt main vs 4 bolt main and which does my Corvette have vs other C5 Corvettes? I'd like to keep all modifications to $7,000 or less, with a goal of low, low 12s or 11.9 if possible (not going to drag race it--just saying how fast I'd want it to go as I think C6 autos from 2005-2007 run low-mid 12s and I want it a bit faster). I'm open to any and all ideas and suggestions as I'm far from an expert on this. Any advice would be very much appreciated.
A.) East Coast Supercharger kit with restrictor plate at about 5 psi, which should be 450 crank hp (or so I'm told) and Corsa Xtreme axle back exhaust
B.) Combination of long tube headers, FAST intake, Callaway Honker, upgraded throttle body, Corsa Xtreme axle back exhaust (I'm thinking all these modifications should get me to 415 hp at the crank (?)) for slightly less than the supercharger from ECS...and maybe, a mild cam for ~25 more crank hp
The thing is, I am completely undecided, and in all honesty, don't know all the advantages and disadvantages of both. I love the idea of the supercharger, but I'm told my block has a 2 bolt main vs later LS1 Corvettes with a 4 bolt main, which may kill the engine with a supercharger. Any truth to that? What is a 2 bolt main vs 4 bolt main and which does my Corvette have vs other C5 Corvettes? I'd like to keep all modifications to $7,000 or less, with a goal of low, low 12s or 11.9 if possible (not going to drag race it--just saying how fast I'd want it to go as I think C6 autos from 2005-2007 run low-mid 12s and I want it a bit faster). I'm open to any and all ideas and suggestions as I'm far from an expert on this. Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Last edited by 449er; 11-21-2016 at 02:00 PM.
11-21-2016, 03:20 PM
#33
409 HP at the wheels or 450 HP at the crank on Mustang DYNO, naturally aspirated engine. See my signature for more details but this are basically the parts that get me there. Every other mod I did was just for the beauty, additional reliability and peace of mind but is costly. You can always drop a blower later.
Vararam
LSXR FAST 102mm Intake
LS2 Ported Throttle Body
Heads 799 Ported
REV Steel Valves 2.02, 1.57
Cam XER273HR 224/230
LG Headers Long Tube & X-Pipe
Vararam
LSXR FAST 102mm Intake
LS2 Ported Throttle Body
Heads 799 Ported
REV Steel Valves 2.02, 1.57
Cam XER273HR 224/230
LG Headers Long Tube & X-Pipe
Last edited by typeav; 11-21-2016 at 03:23 PM.
11-21-2016, 04:53 PM
#34
Let me just leave this right here.
I love roots blowers, and this article is old, but LPE still offers a warranty and that seems like it might be important to you.
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...specialty-file
In case you are not familiar with roots blowers, the provide full boost at low RPM. Your torque curve is no longer a curve, but a flat line. You may give up some on max HP, but for drive-ability and smiles per gallon, top notch.
I love roots blowers, and this article is old, but LPE still offers a warranty and that seems like it might be important to you.
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...specialty-file
In case you are not familiar with roots blowers, the provide full boost at low RPM. Your torque curve is no longer a curve, but a flat line. You may give up some on max HP, but for drive-ability and smiles per gallon, top notch.
11-21-2016, 05:24 PM
#35
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St. Jude Donor '05
esp with 2.73 gears youll have the torque to pull itI love NA motors bu honestly supercharging is THE easiest way to get there and probably most trouble free. Pay more up front but usually only do it once. Youll love it.
11-21-2016, 06:33 PM
#37
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if you will be happy with low 400's I would just stick with a mild cam, 243 heads, headers, intake, and tune, pretty much what Fastbird suggested a few posts above... that will make the power you are looking for and should easily hit the 1/4 mile goal you're after while not putting a whole lot of stress on engine parts... if you use a mild to medium sized cam another good thing is that if for some reason you aren't satisfied with that you can bolt on a blower and make plenty of power, you will have a hard time keeping it under 600 to the tires if you already have a cam and boltons though so be aware of that... and at that level you will have to be proactive and start beefing up other parts of the car to prevent breakage or failures so that is something else to consider... will you be doing your own work?... the reason I ask is because with a supercharger it will require a little more looking after and maintenance just to keep everything in tip top shape when compared to a mild n/a setup and can get costly if you have to take it to a shop every time you need something... also if you drive conservatively and will never open the car up to it's full potential then a supercharger would be a waste of money in my opinion, there really isn't any point in having all the power if you aren't going to use it... as far as superchargers go I would strongly recommend a&a over the other one you mentioned, they have a much better kit and customer service
11-21-2016, 08:53 PM
#38
Melting Slicks
I road around about a year at 420 rwhp, I did the cam, headers, intake & clutch first, These cars are a blast at that power level, you can actually use the power with good tires and suspension mods, after about a year though we added the blower. going blower first is great if your gonna be satisfied at that power level, But if you do the cam set up first you can always just add the blower later should you want more power.
11-21-2016, 09:20 PM
#39
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I road around about a year at 420 rwhp, I did the cam, headers, intake & clutch first, These cars are a blast at that power level, you can actually use the power with good tires and suspension mods, after about a year though we added the blower. going blower first is great if your gonna be satisfied at that power level, But if you do the cam set up first you can always just add the blower later should you want more power.
I did the same... cam/headers/intake/tune on my car made the exact same power as yours but I was underwhelmed, it just didn't do it for me... a supercharger on top of that stuff has made me a happy camper
11-22-2016, 12:15 PM
#40
Drifting
the maggie with a hood is out of your price range @7K installed, unless you are doing the install yourself.
for my money I would look into an A&A or ECS blower and have a good shop install it, your transmission is going to be the weak link and you will spend more than 7k before it is over.
Good Luck