derz_vette

Hey all,

I guess I am a bit emotional, and I apologize for the complaining. Guess it feels better letting out to a crowd that probably understands more than those that tell me it's just a car.

Anyways. I've reached the end of my rope (financially) with the vette, honestly I've went past that and some more... I can't afford another removal/install of my engine. Best case scenario, the engine builder will step up and cover my labor costs relating to the engine issues... and fix the engine. That is unlikely, and I probably will get a refund on the block and sell the chassis.

After six months of problems, stress, and more... I never even got to enjoy it. I hope for this major failure - others have enjoyed massive success.

It really is more than a car to me, but I can't risk financial ruin for it. I believe I tried to do everything right, and it still fell apart.

Tomorrow I'll know the final verdict from the builder.

What would you guys do?

S.C. vette

Is this your first vet?

derz_vette

Yup.

Patches

I'm truly sorry to hear this and hope you can escape from under this with no further financial pain.

I've always made it a hard, fast rule to never get into a project that could balloon into an expensive proposition that could affect my financial health. I have spent plenty on car projects but it's always been "play money" in the sense that there was never a choice between that and something else - even another toy.

I'm sure this is not something you planned - it never is. Try and cut your losses as quickly and painlessly as possible.

Best of luck.

typeav

What problems are you experience ? and how hard do you drive ? I see that you replaced your engine with a LS3 forged, that is serious modification and financially suicide unless you have a workshop and do the labor yourself.

Quick question, how did you build that motor ? Workshops like Lingenfelter that sell engines they offer warranty and a well built engine can't be easily break. Do you have a Supercharger, NOS ?

typeav

I asked you about how hard you drive because I have a friend that doesnt matter what car he drive he breaks it. He burn clutch like drinking a glass of water, crash, transmissions, engines, turbos, you name it. Supras, C5, RX7, Mustangs, doesnt matter, if he touchs it he breaks it....................And believe that he is the greatest drag race driver.

S.C. vette

I just went back thru your threads to see how this began.... and you refer often to a mechanic, not where do I see the word builder... there is a distinct difference. Did he put this build on a test stand, then Dino for a tune.... And did you oversee and or manage this build?

neutron82

I'm also curious to know the details?... I believe you were doing an ls3 swap if I'm not mistaken but I don't know what all happened... if you can afford to keep it just put the car on the back burner for awhile, sort things out, and then come back to it when you are able to

Rob 02

I must have missed your previous thread.

If you get out now what will your loss be -vs- if you fix it?

I purchased mine with a bad engine but when I got into it there were a lot more problems. Every time I got into another part of the car there were more hidden issues.
My repair budget went 5x over. Part of it was to stay motivated I started upgrading everything.

I built my own engine and have been blessed so far. I kept going and I'm glad I did because it is going to just the way I want it. It has gotten to the point now that I am having fun with the car and the build. Before I was distressed but wasn't going out without a fight.

What is the damage on yours?

Rob 02

The LS3 has a different cam sensor set up than the LS1. The LS1 has it on the rear of the block and the cams reluctor is different and on the rear as well. The LS3 has the sensor and reluctor on the front.

There is a modification to make the LS3 work with your PCM and your builder needs to be aware of this.

Things may not be as bad as you think.

derz_vette

I also have a fully built transmission - T6060/C6Z diff / driveshaft.. clutch... whole thing. I had a builder send me a built long block. They state they stand behind their work... and we are at the point it is something internal to the engine.

Oil pressure drops at high RPM. Goes up to 50PSI and drops down to 44 (we don't keep it revved up so we dont know if it will continue to drop.) We checked valley for tower leaking, changed oil pump, changed filter... mechanical gauge... dunno what to do now.




I had the engine assembled and sent to me as a long block. It was not tested AFAIK.

Mechanic final assembled the engine (oil pan and everything else outside engine)
Builder - assembled engine and sent it to me.

Maybe - I can't be sitting on an engine that is a time bomb though, so I need it out. I'd have to ship the car to WA to store it... I live in the bay area and can't afford a place to sit the car until I am ready to work on it again.

I'm deep in the build now. My entire power train has been replaced and built. I really tried to do the build "right", I have a laundry list of changes.

I will lose money either way, but it really depends on what the builder will do for me. The engine needs to be pulled out and pulled apart. I honestly was trying to be nice to the builder as they ran into many delays when they built this for me... I had a feeling I should have bailed out and gone with a different builder. :| Hindsight 20/20.

Depends on what I can sell my chassis for. :\

>Also - we resolved the CAM issue... builder had a 4x gear installed, we swapped it to a 1x. I am not concerned with it really... the oil pressure issue is the biggest concern I have.

derz_vette

Most of my "hard" driving is just pulling while in gear... I don't do many hard starts / slipping of the clutter. :P

I haven't driven my car hard since the build began... just been breaking it in.. and then we found the oil pressure drop issues while it was on the dyno/tuning.

Rob 02

I have heard of the oil pump pick-up tube "O" ring causing a similar issue. The wrong type "O" ring has been known to cause problems. If you do a search it might sound familiar.

derz_vette

When we swapped to the LS6 ported TSP pump, we used their provided O-ring.

I can reach out to them to see if they know of any issues with their provided oring.

Rob 02

The pressure relief valve in the pump could be sticking.

derz_vette

Unlikely with two different brand new pumps..? First was a Meiling and now the LS6 TSP.

Also,

First oring we used : GM12557752 - I am not sure what the second oring is (what TSP provided) yet we have same issues.

>http://www.lsxmag.com/news/identifyi...-your-ls-swap/

S.C. vette

With all the follow-on info... added to your threads earlier this year, your upside down. Get out now, good luck!

Rob 02

Did the engine get noisy when the pressure dropped?
Is the oil pan correct?
Is the dip stick correct for the oil pan? (edited) not sure if it has a dip stick.

The only thing that I'm aware of as far as engine internals causing oil problems is a cam bearing oil fillet hole not lined up with the block or bearing tolerances out of spec. That would be rare.

There could be something floating around the pan getting stuck on the pick-up tube.

I'm just trying to think of the cheap fix possibility. If you had to sell it then it is worth a lot more running strong than half dead even if you have to spend a little.

derz_vette

No noise from valve train AFAIK or can tell ( or mechanic for that matter.)

Oil pan is my old ls1 bat wing, no issues with it...
Using correct dipstick AFAIK (we have been filling by volume) currently have ~8qt in engine, due to having an external oil cooler attached. (have isolated this isn't the cause of drop)

I can probably get a video of the oil pressure and what it is doing real time on the mechanical gauge.

typeav

Do not admit that you have been defeated .... Learn something from TRUMP and stand up like a warrior.

If the car is mine I will get rid of that engine, return it, resell it or whatever and move the chassis to the side. Over the time after I get rid of all my debt that the car caused me I will get another engine but the right engine LS1. You still have to invest another $6k in engine and installation but is done right once and for all. The reasons that I will do it all agains is because,

1 - They not going to give you much for the chassis and you have a chassis paid off already.
2 - $6k corvette with new engine and all that power cant be accomplished by getting another car for that amount.
3 - Is not your daily drive car so you take your time and proceed little by little.
4 - Go to a reputable vendor lets say Lingenfelter and get they LS1 short block for like $3600 fully forged.

Now the scenario change if you....

1 - Do not have space to park that chassis
2 - Can afford a new z06 ?

*If nothing convince you, get rid and don't look back.