ECBM Issues
#1
7th Gear
Thread Starter
ECBM Issues
I recently posted questions on some issues I had with messages on my dash "Service ABS Service Traction Control System" My 2000 C5 has traction control, no active handling, and ABS. Many thanks to the forum members that gave me advice on what to do. I pulled the codes and found out that my ECBM was bad. I especially want to thank the guys at Vette Villians for helping me out with a very reasonable price on a used replacement ECBM. I highly recommend them for any used C5 parts. Great people and I wanted to give them a special thanks for their help. It appears, after looking a three of these modules, that there is a contamination that stops them from working. I have attached a picture of the "staining" on the green circuit board. It is either a leak in the seal or one of the capacitors gets cooked and melts. You can see the stain in the picture. 1997-2000 C5 ECBMs are no longer made, so you must get a used one to eliminate the code and messages, and have ABS. It was not an easy job to replace the ECBM, but I got it done. Regardless of the skinned knuckles and the cursing at the torx screws hidden under the module that need to be taken out. It went well. Thanks again to everyone.
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dadvan99 (02-07-2017)
#2
Are they the ones in PA near Williamsport? I need to call them for something.
Interesting (the stain). You think the unit overheated? Maybe garaging these keeps them from overheating during the warmest months and leaking?
Just a thought...but probably wrong. But if anybody knows about the stains (the source), post a response.
Interesting (the stain). You think the unit overheated? Maybe garaging these keeps them from overheating during the warmest months and leaking?
Just a thought...but probably wrong. But if anybody knows about the stains (the source), post a response.
#3
Advanced
Slo Yelo C5;1594040183]Are they the ones in PA near Williamsport? I need to call them for something.
Yes, that is where we are located. Get a hold of me...
Brian
Yes, that is where we are located. Get a hold of me...
Brian
Last edited by Vetteman Jack; 03-25-2017 at 10:42 PM.
#4
7th Gear
Thread Starter
Contamination
I don't think it is heat, but contamination. I think moisture gets inside. The screws that hold the EBCM are not locked in place. I think they wirk loose. I put blue locktite on mine when I put it back together.
#5
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Glad to see someone has a solution or at lease an alternative. 5 years ago after searching for too long I gave up the ghost and the car. Talked to GM at Carlisle and they predicted at some point folks would reverse engineer a solution.
#6
Drifting
There was a guy on here a year or so back doing a reverse engineer on one , wonder what ever became of that?
#7
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
There is a POST out there that details replacing the early C5 EBTCM/BPMV with a late model 2001-2004 unit. Someone made it work!
What were the symptoms and DTCs that you were seeing when the unit went bad?
Everything on that green board can be replaced. Its the microprocessor below the board that is the real issue. Its NOT serviceable. We have had people who make those microprocessors state that there is NO solution if that is bad.
Bill
What were the symptoms and DTCs that you were seeing when the unit went bad?
Everything on that green board can be replaced. Its the microprocessor below the board that is the real issue. Its NOT serviceable. We have had people who make those microprocessors state that there is NO solution if that is bad.
Bill
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St. Jude Donor '08
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St. Jude Donor '08
EBTCM/BPMV assy:
The EBTCM is the part on the left. The BPMV is the part on the right:
The EBTCM is the part on the left. The BPMV is the part on the right:
#14
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St. Jude Donor '08
The EBTCM is only secured with SIX little screw. It really isnt all that dificult. I would NEVER remove the BPMV unless it was bad.
Just make sure that you pop it STRAIGHT off so you do NOT break any of the coils off the board.
Bill
Just make sure that you pop it STRAIGHT off so you do NOT break any of the coils off the board.
Bill
#19
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '15
I tried removing the ebcm only in car. A few torx screws just weren't easy to get to. I replaced both pieces at the same time. What if the pump was going bad, not enough to throw a code, and was overloading the module. Didn't want to take that chance. Much easier to pull the entire unit out then bleed brakes. But that is my take on it.
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Is it easier to get to from the bottom or top? I'm hoping for the bottom as I have lots of SS panels in engine bay.