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4.10s is the magic combo! 3.90 is only about 100 rpms less at cruise.... Silly to use 3.90
when the 4.10s are so much more fun with nothing lost.
Trust me.... I've done like a million C5's and C5Zs with 4.10s.
I would never steer you wrong.
Chuck CoW
I love hearing that especially from you Chuck. Now I'm even more anxious to get my car back, and feel the difference. Makes the rear end repair less painful.
Well I got my car back afew days ago. It sounds nasty, and the drivability is definitely different its taking me some getting used to. The car made 420whp/401wtq
I am getting these codes now P0140 P0160 and from what I'm seen they are common after long tubes and catless x pipe and are not harmful to the car and I also have no oil temp reading just says LOW. So those are now the issues I'm trying to sort out.
I have only gotten to drive the car twice so far and this morning I drove it into work and as I pulled into the parking lot I was hearing a very noticeable rattle from under the hood, Im hoping that something might be alil loose and causing a rattle.
Overall I love it, it feels alot smoother under power, I just need to get these bugs worked out now that wasn't there before I had this work done.
For the same money as the crappy LS7 clutch you're wanting you can get this McLeod twin disk and reuse your stock flywheel. Lighter and the weight is closer to the axis of rotation. This is an awesome clutch for the street yet can hold 800hp.
Here is a little update after driving the car alot more over the weekend.
Fuel surge when coming to a stop is annoying.
Going slow threw a parking lot full of ppl is more difficult/stressful, but seeing everyone's reactions is worth it.
Finally lowered the car on stock bolts, intended on dropping it a 1/2", but ended up going all the way down on the front and about 4threads left on the back bolt.
So far it looks good and I like it but only time will tell once it settles and/or if I start bottoming out to bad. This was about 30mins after adjusting the lowering bolts
Rattling from under the hood is still there, but it comes and goes, have yet to find what the rattle is
Clutch feels good, havnt launched the car yet, only a few rolling pulls and the clutch gave no signs of give up on me.
Here is the dyno graph
I was told the injectors are working at 100%
That's all for now, new front tires and an alignment is next, then plasti dipping the wheels black, gun metal, or light gold will follow soon after.
Last edited by CarolinaBlueZ; 05-22-2017 at 09:25 PM.
Reason: Added pic
Yea, 100% is what I was told about the injectors. I thought I read on here somewhere that 80% was as much as you would want to run them. Just out of curiosity, do you know how long the stock injectors can handle this kind of duty cycle?
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by CarolinaBlueZ
Yea, 100% is what I was told about the injectors. I thought I read on here somewhere that 80% was as much as you would want to run them. Just out of curiosity, do you know how long the stock injectors can handle this kind of duty cycle?
I couldn't give you a specific time, no one can, but the added stress and heat generated at WOT kind of defeats the purpose of increasing the car's performance in the first place. 100% will definitely shorten their lives.
I would change them if I were you. Get something in the 35 - 40lb/hr range will give you some comfortable wiggle room unless you are planning even bigger hp increases in the future (like boost for example), but no need to overdo it otherwise. They're not that expensive and easy to change.
05-10-2017, 11:29 PM
