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It depends on the quality of the header, I got a bad one that was way off on shape. You can see from my previous pics the angle of the driver side connector is sharper towards the oil pan than the angle of the passenger side connector.
Spoke to a local speed shop and they have done it in the past.
I'm told the pan walls are 1/8", corners are a little thicker.
My blade was ~1/16". No oil leaks, so I think I'm ok.
I would have preferred not to do it, but since I had these headers coated didn't want to loose that money so I kept them
Can you tell me which coating you used? And how much for the coating?
Can you tell me which coating you used? And how much for the coating?
Thanks.
I used Airborne Coatings in North Carolina. http://www.jetcoat.com/
I set it up with Mark Roberts (info below)
I had Huron Speed ship to them on my behalf.
Total with shipping back to me: $638
Ceramic coated inside and out:
$255.00 for the set of headers
$50.00 for each cat
$25.00 per foot exhaust tubing (excluding headers)
$7.50 per flange on exhaust tubing
Mark Roberts
Airborn Manufacturing
PH: 704-827-6000
Judging by your posts it Sounds like you were in over your head and should have let an experienced shop install your headers
Yeah, first time installing headers.
I asked a local shop and they only install Amercian Racing Headers or LG. They had too many fitment problems with lesser known or inexpensive brands.
The crank sensor not clipping properly could happen to anyone
I used Airborne Coatings in North Carolina. http://www.jetcoat.com/
I set it up with Mark Roberts (info below)
I had Huron Speed ship to them on my behalf.
Total with shipping back to me: $638
Ceramic coated inside and out:
$255.00 for the set of headers
$50.00 for each cat
$25.00 per foot exhaust tubing (excluding headers)
$7.50 per flange on exhaust tubing
Mark Roberts
Airborn Manufacturing
PH: 704-827-6000
Just curious, I've heard of coating the headers themselves. But what's the advantage of coating the exhaust tubing? Is heat in the exhaust tubing a potential issue with these cars?
Yeah, first time installing headers.
I asked a local shop and they only install Amercian Racing Headers or LG. They had too many fitment problems with lesser known or inexpensive brands.
The crank sensor not clipping properly could happen to anyone
I think you did a good job, to be honest.
From what you know, are XS Power some of the easiest headers to install amongst the "lesser known" or "inexpensive" brands?
From what you know, are XS Power some of the easiest headers to install amongst the "lesser known" or "inexpensive" brands?
Thanks. It's all part of the fun (or sometimes pain) of owning a vette
I'm not that knowledgeable on headers but many forum members have not had issue installing XSP's, that's why I bought them.
I just happened to get a badly shaped driver side header that required me to lower the oil pan.
Discussed this at length with Jon at Huron Speed, he has the pix and is aware of the issue. Jon offered me a full refund or to replace the headers. Since I spent $638, which Jon would not refund, to coat the headers I decided to keep them.
Whatever you end up buying, make sure there are no fitment issues prior to coating them. Had I not coated them, I would have returned them for 2 reasons: fitment issues and 1" lower than cradle which will result in at least scraping or severe damage if I hit a bump at speed
Just curious, I've heard of coating the headers themselves. But what's the advantage of coating the exhaust tubing? Is heat in the exhaust tubing a potential issue with these cars?
I don't think it's an issue but my car, with black interior, gets hot when stuck in traffic on hot days and the AC struggles to keep up. I figured coating the cats/pipes may help. But may turn out to be a waste of $$, time will tell.
This prompted my curiosity, so I just went out and took pictures.
Does this look normal? Would different motor mounts, such as the Hinson motor mounts, make the engine sit higher thus increasing the clearance here?
Mine looks about the same, there is no reason why they can't be tucked up higher, there is plenty of space above the cats and near the bell housing to accommodate a tighter fit.
Have you had any problems with bottom out your headers on bumps?
I just installed Hinson Motor mounts, stock height, so no difference.
Good thing I didn't install the shorter mounts for a later install of a FAST 102 intake, would have lowered it another 3/8".
I was thinking about shimming up the motor mounts about 1/2" to improve the header clearance.
Mine looks about the same, there is no reason why they can't be tucked up higher, there is plenty of space above the cats and near the bell housing to accommodate a tighter fit.
Have you had any problems with bottom out your headers on bumps?
I just installed Hinson Motor mounts, stock height, so no difference.
Good thing I didn't install the shorter mounts for a later install of a FAST 102 intake, would have lowered it another 3/8".
I was thinking about shimming up the motor mounts about 1/2" to improve the header clearance.
Has anyone done this?
Pros/Cons?
I barely scrapped yesterday when cruising with my wife. Most of the time I am out cruising on my own, and she may have made the difference; in full disclosure she probably weighs 120 lbs, so not a significant load on the car.
Glad to hear the input regarding the Hinson mounts. I think shimming the mounts would certainly improve clearance and should be a pretty easy task. This could even be done with the stock mounts eliminating the need for aftermarket replacement before necessary.
I barely scrapped yesterday when cruising with my wife. Most of the time I am out cruising on my own, and she may have made the difference; in full disclosure she probably weighs 120 lbs, so not a significant load on the car.
Glad to hear the input regarding the Hinson mounts. I think shimming the mounts would certainly improve clearance and should be a pretty easy task. This could even be done with the stock mounts eliminating the need for aftermarket replacement before necessary.
Any input from the peanut gallery?!
Is your car lowered?
Mine is lowered on coilovers, about 1 1/2" lower than stock
I used an easy procedure for replacing the mounts that a member has on this forum, can't locate the thread.
Rather than take half the front apart
- lower headers or remove to be able to reach the mounts
- remove top and bottom bolts
- raise the engine from the bottom by putting a block at the bell housing or oil pan, not the cradle. The engine will raise not more than an inch because the intake will touch the cowl.
- remove 3 bolts from each motor mount bracket, easy to do
- remove the brackets and old mounts
- replace the mount or shim it
- there should be plenty of room for you to insert the mount and bracket, now bolt brackets on
- lower engine, should have full load on the mounts
- secure lower and upper mount bolts
- re-install headers
Ok, so I had to replace the crank position sensor because the retaining tab on the sensor connector broke and would not secure the connector on the wire side.
Then re-assembled the rest and Vroooom started right up!
Is your car lowered?
Mine is lowered on coilovers, about 1 1/2" lower than stock
I used an easy procedure for replacing the mounts that a member has on this forum, can't locate the thread.
Rather than take half the front apart
- lower headers or remove to be able to reach the mounts
- remove top and bottom bolts
- raise the engine from the bottom by putting a block at the bell housing or oil pan, not the cradle. The engine will raise not more than an inch because the intake will touch the cowl.
- remove 3 bolts from each motor mount bracket, easy to do
- remove the brackets and old mounts
- replace the mount or shim it
- there should be plenty of room for you to insert the mount and bracket, now bolt brackets on
- lower engine, should have full load on the mounts
- secure lower and upper mount bolts
- re-install headers
Ok, so I had to replace the crank position sensor because the retaining tab on the sensor connector broke and would not secure the connector on the wire side.
Then re-assembled the rest and Vroooom started right up!
Tab missing on original sensor on top
Glad you got her going! How do you like the sound!?
I was considering this brand of header but after this thread I have to be honest, I wont be getting them. Too many issues. Grind the corner of the oil pan? Are you freakin' kidding me? Not a chance. I'll go with better made albeit more expensive headers.
Has anybody been able to fit XS Power headers without grinding the oil pan?
I wonder if the design has changed on these headers, I did 3 installs on base C5s and one C5 Z-06, all on jack stands and all took just the better part of a day. Removing the old exhaust was more time consuming than installing the headers.
Never had to bend, grind, loosen mounts or use excessive force to get then in.
How is everything now? Have you driven it? Impressions?
Just got back from a spin on I-95
- sound is awesome definitely turns heads even at low speed 2.5k RPM, I have a Corsa Indy exhaust and man when I floor it it screams thru the gears (gotta watch out for the cops )
Ambient temps in the engine compartment didn't seem much hotter than usual (yeah coating!) After the car sat for 20m the ceramic coated headers were cool but the block and cat back were still warm.
Hinson motor mount and transmission mounts rock!
Much sturdier feel, smoother shifting but a little more vibration at lower speeds or idle, I don't mind it.
However the saga of issues continues
- my 2 cat back pipes that bend over the axle rub against the chassis.
- at idle I hear a constant chatter
This is another alignment issue with the XSPs. The pipes look straight but I think the badly shaped driver side header mis- aligns the pipes. A small angle change in the front gets worst over the length of the pipes.
Can't move the pipes much as they are bolted under the torque tube.
I wrapped heat shield tape over the touching areas until I figure out a jig to pull the cat back pipes closer together.
Will take it for a spin later to see if that helps.
Upper part rubs chassis on the left
Only 1/4" space between the flange and tunnel baffle
Driver's side has about 1",
Heat shield tape won't stop the rubbing but may quiet the chattering.
05-31-2017, 08:54 PM
Are you freakin' kidding me? Not a chance. I'll go with better made albeit more expensive headers.
)
