Tearing into the oil pan tomorrow. For all those who are about to die...
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Tearing into the oil pan tomorrow. For all those who are about to die...
Wish me luck. The drip is driving me crazy. The whole bottom of the car is coated. So I have my work cut out. Doing it in my garage. No lift.
And it was 123 here today.
And it was 123 here today.
#3
Melting Slicks
Good luck with your repair and do not forget the brake lines that have to be unhooked if you drop the cradle down and out of your way.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by zachaeous
Good luck with your repair and do not forget the brake lines that have to be unhooked if you drop the cradle down and out of your way.
I'm searching the site right now for a blow by blow instruction on doing this.
#12
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 342,953
Received 19,293 Likes
on
13,966 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Good luck with the repair - can't imagine doing it in that kind of heat though.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: Eastern Corn-Nation
Posts: 6,779
Received 3,866 Likes
on
1,672 Posts
2015 C5 of the Year Winner
Best of luck to ya. My car said 113 on the way into work just now and it's 9 pm. So it's cooling off...
Last edited by mstromquist; 06-21-2017 at 12:06 AM.
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
I am really a bit nervous about this one... I am worried that I will have trouble getting a good seal as I am planning on leaving the transmission in place. I have seen some suggestions that I will never get a good seal again doing it that way... I am usually fearless with stuff like this, but this has me a bit concerned. I really want this to be right when its done..
#16
Melting Slicks
Do you have the one piece oil pan or the one with the 2 piece oil pan. With the latter it is easy to replace the lower oil pan gasket. The one piece or the upper part of the two piece is a bitch. Here is what needs to be done for the upper gasket.
1. Jack the car up, i suggest the front and rear (jack up the front higher)
2. Take off wheels
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the frame (10mm bolt)
4. Remove Tie Rods (18mm) (also may need to use some metric allen wrenches 5mm IIRC)
5. Remove Lower shock bolts (13mm deep and 13mm wrench)
6. Remove Upper control arms (4x 15mm Bolts on body)
7. Remove steering linkage (long extension and 13mm IIRC)
8. Remove Motor mount bolts (under car is easier 18mm)
9. Chain the motor and lift up a couple inches (i used the front pass head and
the alt bolt)
10. Place jack under the K-member and snug to k-member ( I used a 2x6 about
12" long to get the entire k-member)
11. Remove K-member bolts (21mm Deep on rear and 21mm Wrench on front if
u dont remove the sway bar)
12. Lower the K-member slowly
13. Disconnect the oil level sensor (pass side of pan) and the Oil temp (above oil
filter)
14. Remove pan bolts into bellhousing (13mm wrench)
15. Remove pan bolts (10mm, u need to do a lot of reaching if you don't remove the mono leaf) But easy to do.
After done do whatever u needed to do clean the pan and block with some brake cleaner and toss on a new gasket.
Reverse to put back together
Oil Pan Removal
C5 Corvette
2. Take off wheels
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the frame (10mm bolt)
4. Remove Tie Rods (18mm) (also may need to use some metric allen wrenches 5mm IIRC)
5. Remove Lower shock bolts (13mm deep and 13mm wrench)
6. Remove Upper control arms (4x 15mm Bolts on body)
7. Remove steering linkage (long extension and 13mm IIRC)
8. Remove Motor mount bolts (under car is easier 18mm)
9. Chain the motor and lift up a couple inches (i used the front pass head and
the alt bolt)
10. Place jack under the K-member and snug to k-member ( I used a 2x6 about
12" long to get the entire k-member)
11. Remove K-member bolts (21mm Deep on rear and 21mm Wrench on front if
u dont remove the sway bar)
12. Lower the K-member slowly
13. Disconnect the oil level sensor (pass side of pan) and the Oil temp (above oil
filter)
14. Remove pan bolts into bellhousing (13mm wrench)
15. Remove pan bolts (10mm, u need to do a lot of reaching if you don't remove the mono leaf) But easy to do.
After done do whatever u needed to do clean the pan and block with some brake cleaner and toss on a new gasket.
Reverse to put back together
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Gordy M
Do you have the one piece oil pan or the one with the 2 piece oil pan. With the latter it is easy to replace the lower oil pan gasket. The one piece or the upper part of the two piece is a bitch. Here is what needs to be done for the upper gasket.
1. Jack the car up, i suggest the front and rear (jack up the front higher)
2. Take off wheels
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the frame (10mm bolt)
4. Remove Tie Rods (18mm) (also may need to use some metric allen wrenches 5mm IIRC)
5. Remove Lower shock bolts (13mm deep and 13mm wrench)
6. Remove Upper control arms (4x 15mm Bolts on body)
7. Remove steering linkage (long extension and 13mm IIRC)
8. Remove Motor mount bolts (under car is easier 18mm)
9. Chain the motor and lift up a couple inches (i used the front pass head and
the alt bolt)
10. Place jack under the K-member and snug to k-member ( I used a 2x6 about
12" long to get the entire k-member)
11. Remove K-member bolts (21mm Deep on rear and 21mm Wrench on front if
u dont remove the sway bar)
12. Lower the K-member slowly
13. Disconnect the oil level sensor (pass side of pan) and the Oil temp (above oil
filter)
14. Remove pan bolts into bellhousing (13mm wrench)
15. Remove pan bolts (10mm, u need to do a lot of reaching if you don't remove the mono leaf) But easy to do.
After done do whatever u needed to do clean the pan and block with some brake cleaner and toss on a new gasket.
Reverse to put back together
Oil Pan Removal
C5 Corvette
2. Take off wheels
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the frame (10mm bolt)
4. Remove Tie Rods (18mm) (also may need to use some metric allen wrenches 5mm IIRC)
5. Remove Lower shock bolts (13mm deep and 13mm wrench)
6. Remove Upper control arms (4x 15mm Bolts on body)
7. Remove steering linkage (long extension and 13mm IIRC)
8. Remove Motor mount bolts (under car is easier 18mm)
9. Chain the motor and lift up a couple inches (i used the front pass head and
the alt bolt)
10. Place jack under the K-member and snug to k-member ( I used a 2x6 about
12" long to get the entire k-member)
11. Remove K-member bolts (21mm Deep on rear and 21mm Wrench on front if
u dont remove the sway bar)
12. Lower the K-member slowly
13. Disconnect the oil level sensor (pass side of pan) and the Oil temp (above oil
filter)
14. Remove pan bolts into bellhousing (13mm wrench)
15. Remove pan bolts (10mm, u need to do a lot of reaching if you don't remove the mono leaf) But easy to do.
After done do whatever u needed to do clean the pan and block with some brake cleaner and toss on a new gasket.
Reverse to put back together
It's a stock 02 so is it more likely one vs the other?
#18
Melting Slicks
You can tell by looking at the bottom of the pan. There are bolt heads visible all around the outside of the bottom section if it is the two piece pan. The drain plug is in the front of the pan and the bolts are clearly visible on the two piece pan.