A4 fluid swap
07-17-2017, 11:25 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
A4 fluid swap
Hi guys,
Is there a procedure when changing the A4 fluid to give you the ability to drain ALL of the fluid out safely? Including the torque converter? I want to accomplish this WITHOUT doing a transmission "power flush" I've heard bad things about pressurizing the system like that.
The Transmission fluid currently has almost 50,000 miles on it and I wish to replace it all. including the fluid in the converter. Is it possible?
Any help would be great!
Don
Is there a procedure when changing the A4 fluid to give you the ability to drain ALL of the fluid out safely? Including the torque converter? I want to accomplish this WITHOUT doing a transmission "power flush" I've heard bad things about pressurizing the system like that.
The Transmission fluid currently has almost 50,000 miles on it and I wish to replace it all. including the fluid in the converter. Is it possible?
Any help would be great!
Don
07-17-2017, 03:52 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
07-17-2017, 04:04 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Engine oil is exposed to a lot more extreme conditions than transmission fluid. The GM tech told me at 70K that mine did not really need to be changed as long as it shifted good and I did not have any problems. I changed it anyway. It's all up to you. Might be good for it and might not.
07-18-2017, 08:58 AM
#6
Racer
I need to check and see the difficulty factor on this for a C5, but the basic procedure is this. Locate the transmission cooling lines. The 'upper/top' line is generally the out line from the transmission. Disconnect this line and attach additional tubing so you can route it to a 5 gallon bucket. Have on hand the correct amount of trans fluid for a complete change, check owners manual or FSM if you have one. Start car and trans will pump fluid into bucket. Keep adding fluid to trans during this process until all fluid has been exchanged.
I just recently acquired my C5 and sadly can't visualize ,as I type this, if it does in fact have a transmission dip stick. For my procedure to work you have to be able to add fluid thru the dip stick tube. It worked fine on my C4.
I just recently acquired my C5 and sadly can't visualize ,as I type this, if it does in fact have a transmission dip stick. For my procedure to work you have to be able to add fluid thru the dip stick tube. It worked fine on my C4.
07-18-2017, 09:20 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
I need to check and see the difficulty factor on this for a C5, but the basic procedure is this. Locate the transmission cooling lines. The 'upper/top' line is generally the out line from the transmission. Disconnect this line and attach additional tubing so you can route it to a 5 gallon bucket. Have on hand the correct amount of trans fluid for a complete change, check owners manual or FSM if you have one. Start car and trans will pump fluid into bucket. Keep adding fluid to trans during this process until all fluid has been exchanged.
I just recently acquired my C5 and sadly can't visualize ,as I type this, if it does in fact have a transmission dip stick. For my procedure to work you have to be able to add fluid thru the dip stick tube. It worked fine on my C4.
I just recently acquired my C5 and sadly can't visualize ,as I type this, if it does in fact have a transmission dip stick. For my procedure to work you have to be able to add fluid thru the dip stick tube. It worked fine on my C4.
07-18-2017, 09:50 AM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
07-18-2017, 11:37 AM
#10
Racer
07-18-2017, 12:06 PM
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2001
Location: Virginia
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St. Jude Donor '11
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DonsC5 (07-18-2017)
...but there are many on this forum...
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DonsC5 (07-18-2017)
07-18-2017, 03:41 PM
#14
Drifting
Changing the fluid and filter on a C5 A4 is fairly easy, but there are specific procedures to insure that the fluid level is correct after the change:
After replacing the filter and bolting the pan back up, fill with new fluid to the drain/ check level plug hole. Then start the engine and leave it running with the transmission in PARK.
Immediately add fluid through the drain/ check level plug hole until fluid flows out of the plug hole. It may take as much as another couple of quarts.
With your foot holding the brakes, cycle the transmission through all the gears, then back to PARK.
Go back underneath and make sure that fluid is still dribbling out of the fill/ check level plug hole. You might have to add some.
With the engine still running and the transmission in PARK, monitor transmission temperature on the DIC. When transmission temperature rises to 122 F, put the plug in the fill/ Check level hole. Keep a pan under the hole, fluid will dribble out as the transmission temperature rises.
Do NOT shut the engine down until the plug is in the fill/ check level hole. If you do, HOT fluid will gush out and the transmission will be low on fluid.
I recommend full synthetic fluid.
Keep in mind that the above procedure drains about half the fluid in the A4. The other half is in the torque converter and other works.
You will need a small hand pump to pump the fluid into the fill/ check level hole.
After replacing the filter and bolting the pan back up, fill with new fluid to the drain/ check level plug hole. Then start the engine and leave it running with the transmission in PARK.
Immediately add fluid through the drain/ check level plug hole until fluid flows out of the plug hole. It may take as much as another couple of quarts.
With your foot holding the brakes, cycle the transmission through all the gears, then back to PARK.
Go back underneath and make sure that fluid is still dribbling out of the fill/ check level plug hole. You might have to add some.
With the engine still running and the transmission in PARK, monitor transmission temperature on the DIC. When transmission temperature rises to 122 F, put the plug in the fill/ Check level hole. Keep a pan under the hole, fluid will dribble out as the transmission temperature rises.
Do NOT shut the engine down until the plug is in the fill/ check level hole. If you do, HOT fluid will gush out and the transmission will be low on fluid.
I recommend full synthetic fluid.
Keep in mind that the above procedure drains about half the fluid in the A4. The other half is in the torque converter and other works.
You will need a small hand pump to pump the fluid into the fill/ check level hole.
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DonsC5 (07-18-2017)
07-18-2017, 04:03 PM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Changing the fluid and filter on a C5 A4 is fairly easy, but there are specific procedures to insure that the fluid level is correct after the change:
After replacing the filter and bolting the pan back up, fill with new fluid to the drain/ check level plug hole. Then start the engine and leave it running with the transmission in PARK.
Immediately add fluid through the drain/ check level plug hole until fluid flows out of the plug hole. It may take as much as another couple of quarts.
With your foot holding the brakes, cycle the transmission through all the gears, then back to PARK.
Go back underneath and make sure that fluid is still dribbling out of the fill/ check level plug hole. You might have to add some.
With the engine still running and the transmission in PARK, monitor transmission temperature on the DIC. When transmission temperature rises to 122 F, put the plug in the fill/ Check level hole. Keep a pan under the hole, fluid will dribble out as the transmission temperature rises.
Do NOT shut the engine down until the plug is in the fill/ check level hole. If you do, HOT fluid will gush out and the transmission will be low on fluid.
I recommend full synthetic fluid.
Keep in mind that the above procedure drains about half the fluid in the A4. The other half is in the torque converter and other works.
You will need a small hand pump to pump the fluid into the fill/ check level hole.
After replacing the filter and bolting the pan back up, fill with new fluid to the drain/ check level plug hole. Then start the engine and leave it running with the transmission in PARK.
Immediately add fluid through the drain/ check level plug hole until fluid flows out of the plug hole. It may take as much as another couple of quarts.
With your foot holding the brakes, cycle the transmission through all the gears, then back to PARK.
Go back underneath and make sure that fluid is still dribbling out of the fill/ check level plug hole. You might have to add some.
With the engine still running and the transmission in PARK, monitor transmission temperature on the DIC. When transmission temperature rises to 122 F, put the plug in the fill/ Check level hole. Keep a pan under the hole, fluid will dribble out as the transmission temperature rises.
Do NOT shut the engine down until the plug is in the fill/ check level hole. If you do, HOT fluid will gush out and the transmission will be low on fluid.
I recommend full synthetic fluid.
Keep in mind that the above procedure drains about half the fluid in the A4. The other half is in the torque converter and other works.
You will need a small hand pump to pump the fluid into the fill/ check level hole.
07-18-2017, 07:25 PM
#16
Drifting
I have not been able to find a step by step process to exchange all the fluid in the A4 stated in the FSM.
I am not sure how to be certain that ALL the fluid is changed, even with a pressure flush. According to the FSM where DTC P0218 is discussed (HI TRANS TEMP), hot fluid exiting the torque converter flows to the cooler in the radiator then to the front of the transmission to lubricate and cool the front of the transmission. Meanwhile, fluid from the main pump is flowing to other parts of the transmission for various other functions and cooling.
My take is that the cooler circuit does not necessarily exchange 100% of the fluid flowing in the transmission in one pass, or that if one were to flush the total volume of fluid held in the transmission, not all of that fluid would have gone through the torque converter.
Maybe someone with more intimate knowledge of the A4 could weigh in.
My own solution to the problem was to initially change fluid and filter twice, about six months apart.
Because I track my car, I also change my A4 fluid and filter after every six track days, a total of four changes so far. My fluid of choice is Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF.
I am not sure how to be certain that ALL the fluid is changed, even with a pressure flush. According to the FSM where DTC P0218 is discussed (HI TRANS TEMP), hot fluid exiting the torque converter flows to the cooler in the radiator then to the front of the transmission to lubricate and cool the front of the transmission. Meanwhile, fluid from the main pump is flowing to other parts of the transmission for various other functions and cooling.
My take is that the cooler circuit does not necessarily exchange 100% of the fluid flowing in the transmission in one pass, or that if one were to flush the total volume of fluid held in the transmission, not all of that fluid would have gone through the torque converter.
Maybe someone with more intimate knowledge of the A4 could weigh in.
My own solution to the problem was to initially change fluid and filter twice, about six months apart.
Because I track my car, I also change my A4 fluid and filter after every six track days, a total of four changes so far. My fluid of choice is Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF.
The following users liked this post:
DonsC5 (07-19-2017)
07-19-2017, 10:24 AM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have not been able to find a step by step process to exchange all the fluid in the A4 stated in the FSM.
I am not sure how to be certain that ALL the fluid is changed, even with a pressure flush. According to the FSM where DTC P0218 is discussed (HI TRANS TEMP), hot fluid exiting the torque converter flows to the cooler in the radiator then to the front of the transmission to lubricate and cool the front of the transmission. Meanwhile, fluid from the main pump is flowing to other parts of the transmission for various other functions and cooling.
My take is that the cooler circuit does not necessarily exchange 100% of the fluid flowing in the transmission in one pass, or that if one were to flush the total volume of fluid held in the transmission, not all of that fluid would have gone through the torque converter.
Maybe someone with more intimate knowledge of the A4 could weigh in.
My own solution to the problem was to initially change fluid and filter twice, about six months apart.
Because I track my car, I also change my A4 fluid and filter after every six track days, a total of four changes so far. My fluid of choice is Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF.
I am not sure how to be certain that ALL the fluid is changed, even with a pressure flush. According to the FSM where DTC P0218 is discussed (HI TRANS TEMP), hot fluid exiting the torque converter flows to the cooler in the radiator then to the front of the transmission to lubricate and cool the front of the transmission. Meanwhile, fluid from the main pump is flowing to other parts of the transmission for various other functions and cooling.
My take is that the cooler circuit does not necessarily exchange 100% of the fluid flowing in the transmission in one pass, or that if one were to flush the total volume of fluid held in the transmission, not all of that fluid would have gone through the torque converter.
Maybe someone with more intimate knowledge of the A4 could weigh in.
My own solution to the problem was to initially change fluid and filter twice, about six months apart.
Because I track my car, I also change my A4 fluid and filter after every six track days, a total of four changes so far. My fluid of choice is Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF.
