MN6 Rear End Oil Change
#21
Drifting
She will take just under two quarts like above mentioned.
oh, forgot to mention, car MUST be level, I did use a magnetic level for mine when I did it.
#23
Racer
#24
Burning Brakes
If you don't change the tranny filter you are wasting your time. You have to pump the fluid out, drop filter to change all the fluid.
Sorry someone mentioned tranny, I re read and realized you were asking about the rear, smells but cleanable put cardboard under catch can
Sorry someone mentioned tranny, I re read and realized you were asking about the rear, smells but cleanable put cardboard under catch can
Last edited by Clancy209; 08-18-2017 at 08:57 AM.
#25
dont forget the break in after you do this[/QUOTE]
Break in what??? It is not like the clutch packs were replaced and dry. There is no need for any break in after just replacing fluid in a rear end. Never had an issue on any vehicle I owned in 30 years with changing rear end fluid.
Break in what??? It is not like the clutch packs were replaced and dry. There is no need for any break in after just replacing fluid in a rear end. Never had an issue on any vehicle I owned in 30 years with changing rear end fluid.
#26
Drifting
here is the post that I followed, if you are going to do a job, do it right
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...id-change.html
http://www.toquez06.com/diff.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...id-change.html
http://www.toquez06.com/diff.html
Last edited by pjdbm; 08-18-2017 at 04:36 PM.
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks, everyone, for contributing to this thread. I did both rear-end and transmission this morning. I can see why GM says no need to change them for a long time because they both looked decent even at 110k. Sure, they were darker, but not as bad as I expected. That said, I did see all the tiny particles in the rear-end fluid that some people mentioned on other threads, so I am glad that I changed it. While I did not do figure 8s, I did do several circles to both sides, and I've only driven two miles, so we'll see if I notice anything different once I resume my normal driving routine. I was getting some noise at times from the rear in locked turns prior to the change, which I doubt the new fluid helps to alleviate, but I am hopeful. I didn't get them when I was doing the circles, but we'll see over the next couple of days if the sound returns.
I'm not sure what some people meant about shifting becoming "like butter" or "less notchy" after a transmission oil change, but I certainly would not use either of those terms. If anything, it's more like I can feel MORE of every little thing when I shift, almost as if I can "see" all the gear slots more clearly, or something.
I'm not sure what some people meant about shifting becoming "like butter" or "less notchy" after a transmission oil change, but I certainly would not use either of those terms. If anything, it's more like I can feel MORE of every little thing when I shift, almost as if I can "see" all the gear slots more clearly, or something.
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; 08-23-2017 at 08:58 PM.
#28
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
this is just MY OPINION , i can't recommend g m fluid . had mine changed at a chevy dealer about 3 or 4 years ago and about 1400 miles ago and if anything the noise is worse . just had more additive put in [ dealer said it could not be done ] and will see what happens . my next attempt will be to have amsoil fluid and their additive put in . . . peace
#30
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#31
Safety Car
You have to break in the differential oil. I read on BITOG, it's because it needs several hot and cold cycles for all of the anti-wear additives to be optimally formed.
The owner's manual specifically recommends not going full throttle for the first, I believe 500 miles, after changing the oil in the differential, so as to avoid unnecessary wear on the ring and pinion. (because the oil isn't giving 100% protection until it's had some heat cycles)
Last edited by Corvette#2; 08-24-2017 at 01:51 AM.
#32
You have to break in the differential oil. I read on BITOG, it's because it needs several hot and cold cycles for all of the anti-wear additives to be optimally formed.
The owner's manual specifically recommends not going full throttle for the first, I believe 500 miles, after changing the oil in the differential, so as to avoid unnecessary wear on the ring and pinion. (because the oil isn't giving 100% protection until it's had some heat cycles)
The owner's manual specifically recommends not going full throttle for the first, I believe 500 miles, after changing the oil in the differential, so as to avoid unnecessary wear on the ring and pinion. (because the oil isn't giving 100% protection until it's had some heat cycles)
#33
Melting Slicks
had some more additive put in last week and noise is much better and will probably be gone in a few more miles . guess i should tell the dealers service so next time some one wants it done they will know it is possible . thanks for your patience folks . . peace
#34
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
From what I understand, from 2001 on, the service manual says to to the break-in procedure,and it is printed in red and labeled "Important". Someone posted images of the pages from their service manual on a different thread.
#35
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What kind of noise are/were you experiencing?
#36
Safety Car
I was wrong, it's not in the owners manual, but it is in the 2001 and newer service manual:
(I guess it's a newer method, but the older C5s use the same differential. When I changed the gear oil in my 2000, I followed this procedure.
(I guess it's a newer method, but the older C5s use the same differential. When I changed the gear oil in my 2000, I followed this procedure.
#37
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Even though the rear-ends are the same, it is highly likely they found a problem later, so they changed the procedure for the 2001 manual. So, regardless of what year you have, it's probably wise to follow the newer instruction. There's a reason it's in red, prefaced with "important", and clearly explains the consequences.
#38
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
OK, this is becoming amazing. I've only put 44 miles on since my rear-end and transmission fluid changes, and I can say without a doubt that things have been improving every time I've driven the car since the fluid changes. It's hard to believe I can feel differences, especially since the fluids are relatively thin.
First, the transmission: While I first didn't think much changed with shifting, it appears that the new tranny fluid has indeed made a difference, as shifting has become smoother. It's not a huge change, because shifting hadn't necessarily gotten bad or anything, but it seems to be more like what it used to be like when I first got the car. I hadn't previously noticed a decline, so this is somewhat surprising to me.
Now, the difference in the rear-end since the fluid change is more significant. I had been experiencing what I can only describe as scraping noises in tight turns when the car was hot, and the noise seems to be reducing every time I drive it. In fact, when I drive to work, my last turn is a U-turn at a light at which I always hear the noise, and today, I don't even think I heard the noise. So, it appears that the rear-end may indeed benefit from giving the new fluid a chance to do whatever it needs to do after a fluid change. I mean, if I am noticing a continuous improvement over 44 miles, it only makes sense to not push the car too hard for the next 256 miles, as GM has been suggesting since 2001.
I'm pretty sure I'm imagining this, but overall the car seems to move a bit more effortlessly. Now, if there was only something this simple that could make California smog laws allow me to put long-tube headers on the car...
First, the transmission: While I first didn't think much changed with shifting, it appears that the new tranny fluid has indeed made a difference, as shifting has become smoother. It's not a huge change, because shifting hadn't necessarily gotten bad or anything, but it seems to be more like what it used to be like when I first got the car. I hadn't previously noticed a decline, so this is somewhat surprising to me.
Now, the difference in the rear-end since the fluid change is more significant. I had been experiencing what I can only describe as scraping noises in tight turns when the car was hot, and the noise seems to be reducing every time I drive it. In fact, when I drive to work, my last turn is a U-turn at a light at which I always hear the noise, and today, I don't even think I heard the noise. So, it appears that the rear-end may indeed benefit from giving the new fluid a chance to do whatever it needs to do after a fluid change. I mean, if I am noticing a continuous improvement over 44 miles, it only makes sense to not push the car too hard for the next 256 miles, as GM has been suggesting since 2001.
I'm pretty sure I'm imagining this, but overall the car seems to move a bit more effortlessly. Now, if there was only something this simple that could make California smog laws allow me to put long-tube headers on the car...
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; 08-25-2017 at 03:52 PM.
#39
Drifting
Can you get into the transmission fluid change? Do you have a lift? How tricky is this? This is the only fluid that I have not done yet but heard it was a pita on your back, I have a 99 auto.
#40
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Sorry, I have a stick, but there are other threads that regarding doing an auto fluid swap.
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; 08-28-2017 at 05:24 PM.