MN6 Rear End Oil Change
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
MN6 Rear End Oil Change
Haven't done this before but someone told me not to attempt it myself at home because it is messy, and if I spill anything, it'll stink to high heaven forever. Trouble is, who can I trust to do it right? Any tips for me? Better yet, anyone in the Sacramento area want to help me?
#2
Racer
Just make sure you loosen the fill plug first just in case its stuck before draining the fluid. Get one of those large oil drain pan and put down cardboard if you're concerned about spillage.
#3
Melting Slicks
this is just MY OPINION , i can't recommend g m fluid . had mine changed at a chevy dealer about 3 or 4 years ago and about 1400 miles ago and if anything the noise is worse . just had more additive put in [ dealer said it could not be done ] and will see what happens . my next attempt will be to have amsoil fluid and their additive put in . . . peace
Last edited by bigcypress; 08-17-2017 at 07:48 AM.
#4
Changing the diff. and tranny fluids are a piece of cake. The part of the job that takes the longest is getting the car up on nice stable jack-stands and reasonably level.
If you can do an oil change, you can do the diff. and tranny (they're actually easier).
Do loosen the fill plugs first, be sure you remove the "correct" drain and fill plugs (do a search on this site for pic's if you're not sure).
Re-fill with the lube of your choice; I found it easiest to just order the recommended Amsoil products (and the pump that fits on the lube bottle). Again, do a search on this site, there's a couple of write-ups that walk you through it very nicely.
The stink thing is a matter of opinion; gear lube just smells different than motor oil and it all cleans up with soap and water.
If you can do an oil change, you can do the diff. and tranny (they're actually easier).
Do loosen the fill plugs first, be sure you remove the "correct" drain and fill plugs (do a search on this site for pic's if you're not sure).
Re-fill with the lube of your choice; I found it easiest to just order the recommended Amsoil products (and the pump that fits on the lube bottle). Again, do a search on this site, there's a couple of write-ups that walk you through it very nicely.
The stink thing is a matter of opinion; gear lube just smells different than motor oil and it all cleans up with soap and water.
#5
Le Mans Master
Its NOT a dealership project...do it yourself. If you can change your oil, you can do a diff. oil change. Not sure? Do a YouTube search on it. Its pretty simple. I just did mine so if you still aren't sure, P.M. me and we will talk.
Last edited by runner140*; 08-17-2017 at 09:45 AM.
#6
Racer
You don't even need to jack the car up. You can do it on the floor. Get a drain pan that's low enough to get under there and get one of those pumps that fit on the gear oil bottles to pump in the fluid.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
OK, thanks everyone. Locally, it seems I am quite limited in lube options. GM, Royal Purple, Lucas Oil, Mobil 1, Valvoline. Not sure about the GM stuff, but the others are synthetic. Would you do any of these or order something else?
#9
Burning Brakes
I used the same stuff (75w-90?) with the limited slip additive already in it 3 months ago and it works great! I didn't lift the car either. It only took 15-20 minutes tops. I got a gear oil hand pump from Harbor Freight and no problems whatsoever.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Are you guys serious about not having to jack it up? That sure would make it easy to not have to worry about leveling when jacking the whole car up. As someone who has not done it before who's 5'9", 185 lbs., would I have room enough to maneuver under there? If I were to drive it up onto 2x10s, would that help any?
Also, someone on another post said you can use just the shaft of a 3/8" ratchet drive to loosen the plugs, but someone else said it requires 10mm hex on a socket. Which is correct?
Also, someone on another post said you can use just the shaft of a 3/8" ratchet drive to loosen the plugs, but someone else said it requires 10mm hex on a socket. Which is correct?
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; 08-17-2017 at 04:55 PM.
#14
Racer
#17
Drifting
This job would be perfect to schedule when you change the oil, the car will already be up in the air. For the first time doing it, I would recommend the car being up, at least you will be able to see exactly what you are doing AND cleaning, before and after.
I used Amsoil severe synthetic gear oil and purchased the pump for $10.00 from them. I did not have to add the limited slip oil but purchased just to have on hand just in case.
This is one of the easiest jobs Ive done on my vette, in fact, my next oil change, when its up in the air, I will repeat the oil change so I know I got all the old fluid out.
dont forget the break in after you do this
I used Amsoil severe synthetic gear oil and purchased the pump for $10.00 from them. I did not have to add the limited slip oil but purchased just to have on hand just in case.
This is one of the easiest jobs Ive done on my vette, in fact, my next oil change, when its up in the air, I will repeat the oil change so I know I got all the old fluid out.
dont forget the break in after you do this
#19
Racer
#20
Racer
red line has the additive in it, also they have a slightly thicker fluid now a 75w110 if you have any noise it may help. Red line hasn't let me down.
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=133&pcid=4
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=147&pcid=4
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=133&pcid=4
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=147&pcid=4