Scholioso

Hey ya'll.

So as some of you may know, I'm going to be swapping out my t56 here soon and I'm starting to attach the torque tube to the trans. Trans and torque tube have both been rebuilt.

My question to ya'll is simple. Do you guys use loctite? Do you use loctite only on bolts without a torque value? Do you use loctite even with a torque value?

I was installing the clutch slave and the torque was 50 in lbs. Felt way too loose. I gave it just barely a little more. But, being an item that is essentially vibrating at all times, I'm worried. Would you put loctite on these two bolts, as well as the bolts that hold the torque tube to the trans? I don't want to do this again for a stupid bolt. This question is more poised in general, but I am curious as to this specifically as well. Just kinda curious. I'm a stickler for torque values. I don't want to damage anything. Thanks!

NmtMev

Don't use the red, use the blue and you won't have any problems.

UM Rebel

NmtMev

Oh and wait 24hrs after applying. Gotta make sure it cured properly before you start the car drive around and add a but of heat

neutron82

on the bolts you mentioned I don't use any loctite... I use red on the flywheel, pressure plate, and torque tube coupler bolts

Scholioso

Why red on the couplers? When I replaced my couplers, I used blue since thats what the old had.

Does anyone else object to using red on the pressure plate and flywheel? This is my first clutch job (fml) and I've learned a lot. But this is the first time I've read of using red loctite. Anyone agree or disagree? Please state why as well.

Thanks!

neutron82

the torque tube coupler bolts have loctite from hell on them from the factory and if you have ever seen what happens if they come loose you will understand why... if you ever have to remove them again you can use heat to loosen the loctite and it makes the job much easier... you will probably be ok with blue, especially if you aren't racing the car, but personally I use red on mine and others I have assembled in the past

redzg

I like blue too, but you can't use both thread locker and factory torque values on threads that weren't originally thread locked -- the thread locker will act as a lubricant, and the torque values will indicate lower than actual.
Though I generally find it works fine with German torque...

Scholioso

Everyone loves German spec! So is it better to loctite and guldentite, or is it better to torque to spec with nothing?

neutron82

for me it depends on which bolts

Scholioso

So let's take the clutch slave bolts as an example. Torque is 50in lbs which is nothing. If there's a torque value, do you just torque it to that spec? Or do you go over? When do you worry about torque vs not worrying?

bobs77vet

theres lots of variables there.....on transmission pans its like 100 inch lbs....if you exceed it they leak, and thats not close to the shear torque point, it just compresses the gasket too much


so some times you are tightening it to a spec for different reasons. and its always good for gorilla hands to know there limit, a 5/16 bolt can break if you tighten it with an 18" breaker bar.

there are torque specs for both dry fastening and lubricated threads. as well as the different SAE grades/metric grades. generally the breaking point is twice the torque value.

so the rule of thumb is know the grade of the bolt and never tighten it above the torque value from the chart for dry/lubricated. and be aware the torque value may be less for different applications and reasons.

and once you pass the 300 ft lbs range its basically all you can give it with a huge pipe on a big breaker bar (think of the lower 1 1/16" bolt on F150 mac pherson struts)

redzg

I trust the engineers to have known what was the best torque and locking methodology, whether a nylock or threadlocker or similar, when the assembly was new and factory fresh. Every fastener deforms the threads on application -- it's part of how fasteners work. Some of the deformation is temporary, but some of it isn't. We've all seen worn threads -- and most of us have cursed the consequences. I despise Heil-Coils.
I tend to use threadlocker on fasteners where the OEM directs a threadlocker or wants me to replace a bolt with a pre-applied threadlocker, such as the caliper slide bolts, or bolts that I know tend to work loose. And critical fasteners generally get what the FSM directs. Especially large high torque fasteners.