slow_pokeC5

Well, winter is closing in and I am sure a lot of you guys in the snow states use the winter months to do maintenance and major upgrades.

In driving my new to me 02 Z06 the past few weeks, I have noticed a few things that I will be tending to this winter. Even though I do not have a lift, I will be enjoying the pleasures of removing everything from the bell housing rearward, on jack stands!

Anyway, while I am in there, I plan to replace/Upgrade the Clutch, Master, Slave and Fuel Pump and Rebuild the Rear Diff (making noise currently)

I was planning to go with OE Replacement Slave and Master, LS7 LUK Replacement Clutch/Pressure Plate/Flywheel assembly, Walbro 450 and 3.90 gears in a stock rebuilt rear end.

Plans for the car long term shouldn't exceed the capabilities of any of these items from everything I have read and researched.

My question to everyone here, is while I am in there doing all of this stuff, is there anything else that I should consider replacing or upgrading? I am still familiarizing myself with these cars so I am trying to find out what's what still.

Thanks!

twokbolt

How many miles on your car? You might want to check out your torque tube couplers. Good idea doing all that over the winter. That way you can take your time.

slow_pokeC5

142k miles. She's a driver! lol

evolmotorsprt

+1 on this and also the torque tube bearings. I did the whole rebuild kit from RPM. You may also want to consider the RAM Aluminum Flywheel. It makes the LS7 clutch assembly weigh the same as the stock LS6 assembly. Drivability it exactly the same as the stock LS6 unit.

Goodluck!

slow_pokeC5

I'll probably stick with a steel flywheel however I am still researching clutches. I may go with a different option and resurface my stock flywheel. I don't have money to throw around so I have to be frugal to a point when doing things.

~Josh

For the same money as the LuK check out Tick Perfomance in the c5 twin disk section there's the McLeod twin that uses your stock flywheel for $750. Butter smooth, holds insane power and has been on the market for years with good reviews. Research it I'm putting that in mine.

Also, if changing the slave, add the $50 remote bleeder to the factory slave (also on Tick's site).

With those miles change the rear main seal and consider new bearings for the torque tube. $200 -If the rubber couplers are suspect, change them. Buy once, cry once.

slow_pokeC5

I think I might actually go with a MONSTER clutch setup Stage 2 with the lightweight billet STEEL flywheel. I am not a fan of aluminum as I have had issues in the past. It's about $100 more total than yours, but comes with Slave, Remote Bleeder, and Bolts for PP and Flywheel.

As far as the torque tube, I was looking at going with the Billet couplers from RPM as well as all new bearings. Worth doing for sure since Ill be in there.

And a rear main seal was a given. I have an oil leak at the rear of the motor at the moment and I suspect that may be what it is.

Proletariat designs

+1 on the remote bleeder. I would also suggest a tick performance master cylinder as well. but I understand the budget and you don't have to pull the drive line to replace it, so it can wait. I have an ls7 clutch and flywheel in mine. After putting ~4,500 miles I wish I'd have gotten a lighter flywheel. I feels a little heavier than the stock one, but not bad by any means. Good luck with the install. I had my engine out with jack stands. took a while but its not really that bad.

Edit: Forgot to tell you, I called and spoke with monster about their clutches. They steered me toward a ls7 or a twin disc like the mcleod. They did not suggest their clutches for a mainly street car, even with my track plans. Extremely helpful company to talk to, would recommend giving them a call for sure.

~Josh

Do some research on the billet couplers before you jump.

I'm going with OEM. The new GM coupler part number is: 88894026

glbeauchamp

If not already done---VALVE SPRINGS!!!!

slow_pokeC5

Interesting regarding Monster... I am shocked they would lead you towards something like that.

I'm still torn on the clutch. I am pretty sure ill NEVER see more than 450rwtq and 475rwhp, this car is a street/track car. It wont see hard launches on slicks so I dont feel like I need something super crazy but I want to make sure I won't have to do this again for a very long time and want a clutch that can handle some good abuse on an autocross track. I do NOT want an aluminum flywheel. I've had issues in the past as I have mentioned and I really don't want any issues to cause me to have to re do this. Billet Steel is the only way I will go.

Truthfully, what I would like to do is resurface my OEM flyhweel and get a good clutch to work with the stock flywheel to keep cost fairly low. Unfortunately it seems that SPEC is the only option to do that frugally and I do not trust spec.

The adjustable master is on my radar, but you're right. Since it doesn't have to get swapped in while the driveline is out, I was just going to put an OE replacement in for now.

slow_pokeC5

I've read a bunch about that. I have been researching info since I plan to do a cam next summer sometime depending on how my budget is. I would like to just put upgraded springs in now but don't want to wipe out the stock cam with the increased pressure.

slow_pokeC5

Billet no good? I will have to look into that. I was looking at Billet or Prothane, again for purposes of never having to worry about it. Its not a DD.

~Josh

Some guys do a solid rear, some do both. Lots of arguments against why you shouldn't.

Basically, it's said the shock and also harmonics kill the transmission. Also the guys that only do the rear say that puts the shock load on the one remaining coupler and it deteriorates faster. I've heard of the prothane coming apart rather quickly, and I don't trust the BMW couplers sold on Tick's site because it was meant for the cheesy BMW 318i which was a weakling.

The factory couplers have cord wound inside kind of like a tire. Pretty tough yet has the cushion that was obviously called for by the engineers who designed the car. OEM couplers can be found for $135 each on gmpartsdirect.com

Not cheap, but that's what I'm going with.

Proletariat designs

Monster may be great for you if it's not a dd. They told me if I did go monster I'd need to do a couple of hard launches to help with the clutch chatter. Since I dd mine and only track it in the summer they thought a stock style clutch would give me better street manners and hold up to my power levels. Again really nice company to talk to. Got to respect a company that doesn't up sell you into a product they doesn't really suit the customer.

BigBossMY03Z

I went with a Mantic ER2 clutch in my Z06, highly recommend it. I don't do any track driving, but it is rated for lightly modded Z06s so should handle what you mentioned with ease. I think it's good up to 480 hp and around 550 ft/lbs of tq. Still feels like the stock clutch in driveability, and it's a lightened steel flywheel. I did this over going with an LS7 clutch and would happily do so again.

slow_pokeC5

Do you have a link to the correct clutch?

BigBossMY03Z

Sure, I bought it from ECS link here. Comes in a big wooden crate too (nice touch).

slow_pokeC5

Awesome! Thanks!

slow_pokeC5

When it comes to the slave cylinder, is there any real benefit to an aftermarket piece, or will a Dorman replacement do just fine for my use? I know I know search... lol I'm working on it lol