[Z06] LS6 clutch Carnage.
#1
Cruising
Thread Starter
LS6 clutch Carnage.
Included are some pics of the clutch removed from my 2002 C5 Z06. I am pretty confident the culprit for all the damage was an improperly adjusted Tick master cylinder. The clutch and slave both went out on a 6500PRM 2-3 shift on the first day of my ownership. I have since installed a lift in my garage to fix it myself in comfort.
Broken LS6 pressure plate.
Fingers dislodged after ring break.
Does the torque tube pilot look normal? The wear does not seem to have taken any material besides the outer coating. I change the pilot bearing with the LUK included bearing.
Fingers dislodged after ring break.
Does the torque tube pilot look normal? The wear does not seem to have taken any material besides the outer coating. I change the pilot bearing with the LUK included bearing.
#2
Race Director
The thing about the standard Tick MC is the extra flow makes the clutch hit harder. You do that on the stock clutch, and you see what happens. I'm going back to a stock MC to make my car more enjoyable to drive. With me, and a RPS dual disc, the rear end shrapneled instead of the clutch. Also, first hard shift with SC.
#3
Cruising
Thread Starter
I will try to get some pics of the OEM slave cylinder also. The inner seal blew out completely. The clutch would not stroke at all.
I was able to move the car into the baseplate 2 post lift bay by starting in 1st gear and idling in. It was dropped in the driveway by a rollback flatbed tow truck. He took 45 minutes to get it on the back at stock ride height. I don't think he would have been able to load it if I was lowered at all. I have been working alone due to being new to Ohio and my work schedule.
I was able to move the car into the baseplate 2 post lift bay by starting in 1st gear and idling in. It was dropped in the driveway by a rollback flatbed tow truck. He took 45 minutes to get it on the back at stock ride height. I don't think he would have been able to load it if I was lowered at all. I have been working alone due to being new to Ohio and my work schedule.
#5
Pro
The thing about the standard Tick MC is the extra flow makes the clutch hit harder. You do that on the stock clutch, and you see what happens. I'm going back to a stock MC to make my car more enjoyable to drive. With me, and a RPS dual disc, the rear end shrapneled instead of the clutch. Also, first hard shift with SC.
I have it and it's awful..
Last edited by Brit dex; 09-18-2017 at 01:55 PM.
#6
Race Director
Very strong clutch, but with a Tick MC is like a light switch, with about 1/4" of engagement window. It'd be really hard on the driveline if I raced the car. I'm going back to stock hydraulics. I also have a Centerforce TO bearing on the GM slave. I forgot to add; lots of people complain of clutch chatter, or general noise, but I have none of those problems.
Last edited by zeevette; 09-18-2017 at 02:54 PM.
#7
Pro
Very strong clutch, but with a Tick MC is like a light switch, with about 1/4" of engagement window. It'd be really hard on the driveline if I raced the car. I'm going back to stock hydraulics. I also have a Centerforce TO bearing on the GM slave. I forgot to add; lots of people complain of clutch chatter, or general noise, but I have none of those problems.
But find I'm riding it at high revs to pull away.. Sometimes it hooks and goes , but have had some hairy moments pulling out and being stranded in no mans land .
I'm wondering if I'm just not used to it, or maybe change it out.. Only had car few weeks.. It's fine once moving.. Was starting to wonder if shifter was lined up right, or fluids somewhere..
#8
Drifting
Included are some pics of the clutch removed from my 2002 C5 Z06. I am pretty confident the culprit for all the damage was an improperly adjusted Tick master cylinder. The clutch and slave both went out on a 6500PRM 2-3 shift on the first day of my ownership. I have since installed a lift in my garage to fix it myself in comfort.
Broken LS6 pressure plate.
Fingers dislodged after ring break.
Does the torque tube pilot look normal? The wear does not seem to have taken any material besides the outer coating. I change the pilot bearing with the LUK included bearing.
Fingers dislodged after ring break.
Does the torque tube pilot look normal? The wear does not seem to have taken any material besides the outer coating. I change the pilot bearing with the LUK included bearing.
Mark.
#10
Cruising
Thread Starter
I sure hope not. It would be hard to tell from corrosion due to the cars construction. The frame and hardware seems normal for the cars age. I do know the BCM was recently replaced. It is also an Ohio car where the roads are salted in the winter, so hopefully that was the cause of the pressure plate surface rust.
#11
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Check the run-out at the end/tip of the input shaft where it engages the pilot bearing.
My clutch went at 6500rpm as well years ago and the shaft was slightly bent. Had a little wobble to it when rotated. A new shaft from GM is $500+. Ouch.
Old shaft as it came out of the car.
Notice the updated shaft (on the right) GM now offers has a little more meat in certain spots. Stronger. I also replaced all the bearings and couplers while I had the torque tube apart.
My clutch went at 6500rpm as well years ago and the shaft was slightly bent. Had a little wobble to it when rotated. A new shaft from GM is $500+. Ouch.
Old shaft as it came out of the car.
Notice the updated shaft (on the right) GM now offers has a little more meat in certain spots. Stronger. I also replaced all the bearings and couplers while I had the torque tube apart.
#12
Burning Brakes
Very strong clutch, but with a Tick MC is like a light switch, with about 1/4" of engagement window. It'd be really hard on the driveline if I raced the car. I'm going back to stock hydraulics. I also have a Centerforce TO bearing on the GM slave. I forgot to add; lots of people complain of clutch chatter, or general noise, but I have none of those problems.
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zeevette (09-21-2017)
#13
Cruising
Thread Starter
Thanks for the information and pictures. I will definitely check it. If the shaft is OK I should be back on the road Thursday. If not, I'll be rebuilding my torque tube also once the parts come in.
#15
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Another clutch was installed after the explosion without checking for run-out as mentioned and now many years (but just 3k miles) later when I took everything apart I noticed the pilot bearing needles were gone and the input shaft no longer had support. That made me investigate further.
That wobbling made the clutch heat up when run hard and the fingers of the pressure plate got heat fatigued and started to slip. Drive easy for 10 minutes and you can get a good couple gears and then issues again.
So the input was damaged when the 1st clutch went, and then un-diagnosed it was the cause for the 2nd clutch going.
Now it's all new, I'm upgrading to a twin disk, so things should be good.
Since you had yours explode like mine did initially that's why I offered the suggestion to look closely.
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Z06inOH (09-20-2017)
#16
Drifting
Check the run-out at the end/tip of the input shaft where it engages the pilot bearing.
My clutch went at 6500rpm as well years ago and the shaft was slightly bent. Had a little wobble to it when rotated. A new shaft from GM is $500+. Ouch.
Old shaft as it came out of the car.
Notice the updated shaft (on the right) GM now offers has a little more meat in certain spots. Stronger. I also replaced all the bearings and couplers while I had the torque tube apart.
My clutch went at 6500rpm as well years ago and the shaft was slightly bent. Had a little wobble to it when rotated. A new shaft from GM is $500+. Ouch.
Old shaft as it came out of the car.
Notice the updated shaft (on the right) GM now offers has a little more meat in certain spots. Stronger. I also replaced all the bearings and couplers while I had the torque tube apart.
So do check the run-out. I bought two use TT's and both were bent.
Mark.
#18
Cruising
Thread Starter
The run-out seemed fine without disassembly. (Checked for play and with a straight edge as well as rotation with the half shafts disconnected.) I installed a new pilot bearing supplied with the LS7 clutch kit. I will also make sure to minimize the throw of the adjustable master cylinder. I just have a few more details to finish up before I can test out the car.
#19
Cruising
Thread Starter
Back on the road
I installed a new LS7 clutch kit from Rock Auto. (Flywheel, pilot bearing, pressure plate, PP bolts) The clutch slave was from AdvanceAuto Parts. While I had the rear end dropped I changed the diff and transmission fluid. Both were black and seemed a little burnt with no evidence of water. I went with Mobil 1 LS 75W90 and Carquest DEX/MERC (Dexron 3 rated). I also upgraded to Stoptech stainless brake lines and used my new pressure bleeder. The pedal is super firm after 1 bleeding session and with no help.
Last edited by Z06inOH; 09-23-2017 at 08:34 PM. Reason: Misspelling