C5 Led sequential front turn signal build
10-10-2017, 01:25 AM
#21
Drifting
If your concern was separating out DRL, turn, and parking lights, I assure you, it was that easy 
I know because I wired up separate DRL relays into the passenger footwell fusebox to run my own DRL setup. The DRL relays turn on with the car, and turn off with the parking lights and turn signals, just like OEM function.
I know because I wired up separate DRL relays into the passenger footwell fusebox to run my own DRL setup. The DRL relays turn on with the car, and turn off with the parking lights and turn signals, just like OEM function.
10-10-2017, 01:40 AM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
If your concern was separating out DRL, turn, and parking lights, I assure you, it was that easy
I know because I wired up separate DRL relays into the passenger footwell fusebox to run my own DRL setup. The DRL relays turn on with the car, and turn off with the parking lights and turn signals, just like OEM function.
I know because I wired up separate DRL relays into the passenger footwell fusebox to run my own DRL setup. The DRL relays turn on with the car, and turn off with the parking lights and turn signals, just like OEM function.
10-10-2017, 01:58 AM
#23
Drifting
I have no need to get in a pissing match with you here.....but against my better judgment here goes anyhow. There is a bit more going on here than you describe. There is a micro computer with 5 different inputs....one of them attached to a wireless reciever mounted at the back of the car. I have over 20 channels of independent control, and the ability to execute just about any sequence that I care to program. If I could have done all of that "just by adding 2 wires" I would have. I modded my car years ago with white drl's and you are right it isn't that complicated, but this is not that, not even close. If you can pull all this off with 2 wires by all means do it and show the world how dumb I am. I will be the first to applaud you!
I'm not going to pretend to have a clue on what you did from microcontroller to LEDs (though I do have a pretty good idea), and you probably didn't want the microcontroller sitting in the engine bay anyways, hence ripping out half the interior.
10-10-2017, 10:23 AM
#24
Le Mans Master
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Oldtimer
Nebraska, I’ve seen some led’s added to the stock housings, but they were just adhered to the exterior. Not my way of doing things.
How did you take the housing apart and then reassemble it?
How did you take the housing apart and then reassemble it?
10-10-2017, 11:05 AM
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
It was not very elegant, hence the lack of pictures. I basically used a dremel to slice open and to remove a large section on the back of the housing to allow me to insert the Drl strip as well as the turn signal strip. Once those were secured in place I closed up the back of the housings with a strip of ABS plastic and lots of hot glue. I was using Aftermarket light modification that are sealed with some type of solvent glue that has melted the front and back of the housing together into one, but the factory housings I removed appear to be made in the same way. Some lights are held together with a butyl adhesive that can be softened in the oven and then pried open but that is not the case with these.
10-10-2017, 01:36 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
Very well done. A bit retro-futuristic for me (reminds me of KITT car from the David Hasselhoff show), but pretty darn creative.
10-10-2017, 03:21 PM
#27
Le Mans Master
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Oldtimer
It was not very elegant, hence the lack of pictures. I basically used a dremel to slice open and to remove a large section on the back of the housing to allow me to insert the Drl strip as well as the turn signal strip. Once those were secured in place I closed up the back of the housings with a strip of ABS plastic and lots of hot glue. I was using Aftermarket light modification that are sealed with some type of solvent glue that has melted the front and back of the housing together into one, but the factory housings I removed appear to be made in the same way. Some lights are held together with a butyl adhesive that can be softened in the oven and then pried open but that is not the case with these.
for. Sort of a ‘ship in the bottle” approach, but the led strips sometimes have a mind of their own, coupled with the only fastening method is adhesive...so I’m still 
Last edited by chasboy; 10-10-2017 at 03:22 PM.
10-10-2017, 04:59 PM
#28
Race Director
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2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Very cool!
From your brief overview, I can appreciate all the thought, planning, and effort that went into this. Congratulations on a job well done!
From your brief overview, I can appreciate all the thought, planning, and effort that went into this. Congratulations on a job well done!
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NebraskaTrevor (10-10-2017)
10-10-2017, 05:41 PM
#29
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16'-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-
'23-'24
sorry, there is zero chance of that. Not only were the lights themselves a ton of work to make, but they are nowhere near a plug and play application...as they would probably need to be in order to be marketable. I had to remove most of my interior, the console, the airbag and steering wheel, and the instrument cluster to complete the necessary wiring. There is just no way that somebody else is going to be willing to do all that, or if they are then they would likely just build a set themselves. Thanks for the interest though.
I'm willing to drop my Vette off in Lincoln for the winter. You can do both the front and rear of my 02
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NebraskaTrevor (10-10-2017)
10-10-2017, 07:27 PM
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
I’ve been trying to find a way to do this but without the headache of the sequentials, which I give you a for. Sort of a ‘ship in the bottle” approach, but the led strips sometimes have a mind of their own, coupled with the only fastening method is adhesive...so I’m still
for. Sort of a ‘ship in the bottle” approach, but the led strips sometimes have a mind of their own, coupled with the only fastening method is adhesive...so I’m still
10-10-2017, 08:11 PM
#31
Beautiful, and to me a perfect type of modification. Almost factory looking but knocks your socks off with functionality. A sh**pot better than louvers on the taillights. Well done...knewblewkorvette...your car can be first behind mine 
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NebraskaTrevor (10-10-2017)
10-11-2017, 08:33 AM
#32
Instructor
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NebraskaTrevor (10-11-2017)
10-11-2017, 09:05 AM
#33
Melting Slicks
Since there's more than a few references to the KITT car, maybe you should make it talk to you now! All kidding aside, VERY nice work sir!
All kidding aside, VERY nice work sir!
Last edited by CactusCat; 10-11-2017 at 09:05 AM.
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NebraskaTrevor (10-11-2017)
10-11-2017, 04:07 PM
#34
Instructor
it is....I used a cob strip, and I also had to use a limiting device for the voltage to keep it at 11.7vdc which turns out to be the perfect voltage for good brightness along with long life by keeping it cool. Our cars regularly exceed 14.2 vdc at speeds above idle and the led strips just don't survive long at that voltage, especially when it is crammed in a sealed housing with out much chance of convection or air flow cooling it off. I found some adjustable voltage regulators on Amazon that work great. Anything from 12 to 24 vdc input gives me a perfect 11.7 vdc out to the lights.
What did you use, and do you need one for each strip, or somehow regulate the overall feed voltage?
10-11-2017, 04:16 PM
#35
Instructor
Thread Starter
Could you give me some advice on which voltage regulators to use? I have just replaced my taillights with LED's strips, the cheap kind from ebay. Love the look (see elsewhere on this esteemed forum), but I am a little concerned about voltages to these strip leds.
What did you use, and do you need one for each strip, or somehow regulate the overall feed voltage?
What did you use, and do you need one for each strip, or somehow regulate the overall feed voltage?
They are cheap and work very well. I adjusted mine to supply 11.7vdc to the entire white drl assembly as a whole. The other amber led chips used for the turn signals are some fancy little units that each have their own driver built in that can accept up to 18vdc so I did not do any regulation of the voltage to each of the amber elements. Any adjustable dc buck bust converter that can handle the required current should work well. The one that I provided the link to is a very nice, enclosed waterproof unit. Once I got the little trim pot set I sealed it with hot glue for waterproofing as well as to maintain the position of the trim pot.
10-11-2017, 04:40 PM
#36
Instructor
Hi there. I used these....https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C0...S31RCEJA7PQYWK
Thanks!!
Andy
10-11-2017, 04:43 PM
#37
Drifting
For regular US spec cars, you should have one on each pair of taillights. Each pair is on a separate circuit for turn signal function.
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NebraskaTrevor (10-11-2017)
10-11-2017, 08:15 PM
#38
Instructor
I put a similar question out on Amazon, where I got my hyperflash unit, and asked whether the hyperflash also regulates the voltage and hence a regulator is not required. The answer can back affirmative - the HF regulates both flash speed and voltage. I'm not completely convinced about that, so I'll put a multimeter on this weekend, it's got me curious now.
10-11-2017, 08:37 PM
#39
Instructor
Thread Starter
I put a similar question out on Amazon, where I got my hyperflash unit, and asked whether the hyperflash also regulates the voltage and hence a regulator is not required. The answer can back affirmative - the HF regulates both flash speed and voltage. I'm not completely convinced about that, so I'll put a multimeter on this weekend, it's got me curious now.
