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105k and done. My LS 1 ate it.

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Old 10-18-2017, 09:26 PM   #1
Nyt_Muves
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Default 105k and done. My LS 1 ate it.

So I have poured a ton of money into this car lately. Even after all new gaskets and seals it was dripping. Replaced the PCV assembly and it improved but didn’t completely cure it. It has a brand new rear main seal. Still dripping. Had them do a leak down test. #1 cylinder at 80% loss. Pics attached. I’m stunned. Never abused it. Never beat on it cold. Religious with oil changes. You can see inside the engine is spotless. Bottom line I love the car. It’s clean. It’s pretty. It’s something dad and I enjoyed together. Since I buried him 2 weeks ago that seems even more important. So I am trying to look at this as an opportunity instead of a problem. So with 105k I’m going to go the rebuild route. Maybe a better cam and some head work. May need to bore so pistons. So I’m up for suggestions. Wouldn’t mind more power but reliability and cost are factors.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:55 PM   #2
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Swap in an LS3 . It’s not that hard. Most bang for the buck. There are several vendors that sell low mile used LS3’s here and on the auction site.

Last edited by Sids04; 10-18-2017 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:59 PM   #3
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Dump it and move on
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allieboy
Dump it and move on
Problem is I have already upgraded the drivetrain to the tune of thousands. If I dump it then I have nothing.
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sids04
Swap in an LS3 . It’s not that hard. Most bang for the buck. There are several vendors that sell low mile used LS3’s here and on the auction site.
I thought that would be very difficult.
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:46 PM   #6
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wanna buy a low mile LS6 w/forged internals? needs an intake, new knock sensor plate and some accessories but otherwise good to go...even has a fairly new LS7 clutch
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:48 PM   #7
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Check with Forum vendor VetteNutts for a replacement LS1:
http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l=product_list&c=3
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pewter99
wanna buy a low mile LS6 w/forged internals? needs an intake, new knock sensor plate and some accessories but otherwise good to go...even has a fairly new LS7 clutch
Very possibly. What does it take to swap in? Where is it? I’m happy to pick it up but I’m in phoenix.
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:53 PM   #9
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I rebuilt mine last year. If I had to do it over I may have gone with a stroaker LS2 or 3 if naturally aspirated or forged internals for FE.

You need to think about your future goals and budget.
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike98SilVert
Check with Forum vendor VetteNutts for a replacement LS1:
http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l=product_list&c=3
This may be the way too. Im pricing rebuild options right now.
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob 02
I rebuilt mine last year. If I had to do it over I may have gone with a stroaker LS2 or 3 if naturally aspirated or forged internals for FE.

You need to think about your future goals and budget.
Daily driver. Occasional track day. I was shocked it had this issue at all. I was usually really easy on it and all I had heard for years was how durable these engines are. Still idles smooth. Runs great. The dripping rear main was the only sign of trouble.

I already have the McLeod twin disk and flywheel and the Zip 4.10 rear end. I know the drivetrain will handle whatever I do but I wasn’t planning on this right now. Oh well.

Last edited by Nyt_Muves; 10-18-2017 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyt_Muves View Post
Very possibly. What does it take to swap in? Where is it? I’m happy to pick it up but I’m in phoenix.
It was in my 99, parting out my car, it is currently sitting on a pallet at the shop where I had it removed, same shop that built it. Probably a few hundred to get it shipped to AZ from FL.
If its something you want to consider we can discuss some numbers and find out about shipping


I was running a Maggie MP112 on this and sold it separately...

motor has about 14K on it before I decided to part the car. Ran and drove perfectly up till the day it was pulled. It is currently setting on a pallet at Powertech Performance in St. Pete FL where it was built, installed and subsequently removed. Joe the owner at Powertech built this motor and could answer any questions I cannot.

here is what was done / installed per my receipt in no particular order

New GM LS6 block
Bore and hone block
Balance complete rotating assy-crank-rods-pistons-flywheel-damper
Clevite main bearing
Clevite rod bearings
OEM LS7 lifter set
High volume oil pump
Complete engine gasket set
Katech C5R timing chain set
ARP cylinder head stud kit
243 heads
Eagle forged steel crankshaft
Wiseco forged alum pistons with rings, pins, locks
Eagle forged H-beam connecting rods w/ARP bolts
Patriot Gold Valve Springs
Titanium Retainers Viton Seals
Coolant Temp sending unit
Oil pressure sending unit
OEM crankshaft damper bolt
OEM lifter guide plates
NGK TR6 plugs
ECS blower cam
INT EXH
273 279 at .050
224 230 LSA 114
valve lift .581 .592
9.5 : 1 comp ratio
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pewter99
It was in my 99, parting out my car, it is currently sitting on a pallet at the shop where I had it removed, same shop that built it. Probably a few hundred to get it shipped to AZ from FL.
If its something you want to consider we can discuss some numbers and find out about shipping


I was running a Maggie MP112 on this and sold it separately...

motor has about 14K on it before I decided to part the car. Ran and drove perfectly up till the day it was pulled. It is currently setting on a pallet at Powertech Performance in St. Pete FL where it was built, installed and subsequently removed. Joe the owner at Powertech built this motor and could answer any questions I cannot.

here is what was done / installed per my receipt in no particular order

New GM LS6 block
Bore and hone block
Balance complete rotating assy-crank-rods-pistons-flywheel-damper
Clevite main bearing
Clevite rod bearings
OEM LS7 lifter set
High volume oil pump
Complete engine gasket set
Katech C5R timing chain set
ARP cylinder head stud kit
243 heads
Eagle forged steel crankshaft
Wiseco forged alum pistons with rings, pins, locks
Eagle forged H-beam connecting rods w/ARP bolts
Patriot Gold Valve Springs
Titanium Retainers – Viton Seals
Coolant Temp sending unit
Oil pressure sending unit
OEM crankshaft damper bolt
OEM lifter guide plates
NGK TR6 plugs
ECS blower cam
INT EXH
273 279 at .050
224 230 LSA 114
valve lift .581 .592
9.5 : 1 comp ratio
Trying to PM you
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyt_Muves View Post
Daily driver. Occasional track day. I was shocked it had this issue at all. I was usually really easy on it and all I had heard for years was how durable these engines are. Still idles smooth. Runs great. The dripping rear main was the only sign of trouble.

I already have the McLeod twin disk and flywheel and the Zip 4.10 rear end. I know the drivetrain will handle whatever I do but I wasn’t planning on this right now. Oh well.
the 4.10's must have been too much for it ???? (sell them to me !!!!)
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyt_Muves View Post
t I wasn’t planning on this right now. Oh well.
neither was I no one ever says, "hey today is a good day to have my motor take a ****"
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:11 PM   #16
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Trying to PM you
I got a friend request but no message
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:13 PM   #17
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I've got almost the identical cam that's in Pewters engine and I love it. Perfect amount of rumble and much stronger than stock LS6.
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:20 PM   #18
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I cant tell from your pics but what happened? Did one of the roller lifters fail?
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:30 PM   #19
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105k is way premature. I would want to factor out any possible causes that might end up in the new engine.

Mine had a bent connecting rod due to hydro-locking. The rest of the engine was rebuildable. I ended up going with 799 heads and LS6 cam and some mild mods. I know that is too mild for most track guys but I drive it on the street.

The above forged engine would be a good candidate if you ever think you might want FE or nitrus.
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackzo6
I cant tell from your pics but what happened? Did one of the roller lifters fail?
Not sure. Haven’t pulled the head yet. I’ve never cracked a ring ever before.
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