Ring let go - Car Value?
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
80lb/hr w/Snow Meth. Kit............it still popped after 1500miles.
If it has a bad ring then it probably has a broken piston ring-land. If so then probably a scored cylinder as well. If the groove is deep enough then it will need to be bored out in all 8 cylinders.
At that point you might as well do the right thing for a FI car and go with forged internals (383 stroker). Better yet, a LS3 stroker.
Do a compression test on cylinder 7 and post the results. #7 is the furthest one back in the intake and has a tenancy to run the leanest with FI as the air rushes back. Broken ring-lands are often a result of a lean condition.
What injectors are you using?
At that point you might as well do the right thing for a FI car and go with forged internals (383 stroker). Better yet, a LS3 stroker.
Do a compression test on cylinder 7 and post the results. #7 is the furthest one back in the intake and has a tenancy to run the leanest with FI as the air rushes back. Broken ring-lands are often a result of a lean condition.
What injectors are you using?
#23
Melting Slicks
I'll pay 8k without the blower, headers and exhaust if the car is red or white. Serious offer.
Last edited by Shaolin Crane; 11-26-2017 at 02:10 AM.
#24
Race Director
My tuner fixed a drop-off of FP around 5800 rpms after I installed my A&A kit (includes in tank FP and #80s) with stock pulley 3.8 IIRC. He added a BAP from an unneeded Magnacharger that seems to work great. He also tweaked the tune to add fuel to #7 and a little less to #s 5 and 6. Stock block with Trickflow heads and no meth. Compression is an unfortunate 11:1. I got 8lbs on the dyno runs, which returned 589 RWHP SAE on his Mustang, and 643 same on a Dynojet @ 2800 ft. elevation. Plenty of FP all the way to redline, but it only has seen redline on the dyno, especially since I added the SC. Just too much on street tires, and I 've never raced. I too would get a built shortblock if needed, but I doubt it given how I drive.
#25
Melting Slicks
If it has a bad ring then it probably has a broken piston ring-land. If so then probably a scored cylinder as well. If the groove is deep enough then it will need to be bored out in all 8 cylinders.
At that point you might as well do the right thing for a FI car and go with forged internals (383 stroker). Better yet, a LS3 stroker.
Do a compression test on cylinder 7 and post the results. #7 is the furthest one back in the intake and has a tenancy to run the leanest with FI as the air rushes back. Broken ring-lands are often a result of a lean condition.
What injectors are you using?
At that point you might as well do the right thing for a FI car and go with forged internals (383 stroker). Better yet, a LS3 stroker.
Do a compression test on cylinder 7 and post the results. #7 is the furthest one back in the intake and has a tenancy to run the leanest with FI as the air rushes back. Broken ring-lands are often a result of a lean condition.
What injectors are you using?
Better a little rich than lean anyday
Last edited by skydiven4fun; 11-26-2017 at 06:35 PM.
#26
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You could just replace one piston and have it retuned so it doesn't happen again, that would be your least expensive way out of this. We have done that a handful of times over the years, never an issue, all still on the road as far as i know.
#27
Stop thinking about the car for a while, rebuild or swap the short block with forged components. You put too much money, time and effort on this car to sell it at this point, fix it and enjoy the car.
*My advise, if you can't do the rebuild or swap yourself do not look for LS3 short blocks, stick to LS1 to make things less expensive and easiers.
*My advise, if you can't do the rebuild or swap yourself do not look for LS3 short blocks, stick to LS1 to make things less expensive and easiers.
#28
I don't want to discourage but to answer your question, If you dismantle and seller by parts you may get $5k-$6k quick, a non running car has no value for most customers.
I have see other people here not able to sell they supercharger kit for $4k, this mean you only getting half of what it cost you if lucky.
I have see other people here not able to sell they supercharger kit for $4k, this mean you only getting half of what it cost you if lucky.
#29
Drifting
#30
Melting Slicks
Ok you have two choices for getting it fixed cheap
1. Car-part.com has a 2000 ls1 with good compression with 100k on it for $1200 buy that swap your heads and cam and your back in business from there you can take apart the hurt motor and part out the good parts or you can rebuild it taking your time...go to different shop (I’m in your area and can tell you who to avoid) and back off your tune a hair.
2. Even though it might seem like a downgrade you can pick up 5.3 junkyard short blocks for 300-500 and they will take all the abuse you throw at them...stock these motors will hold over 800 hp and since you are boosted you can just go smaller on your pulley and end up with more power.
I was in your shoes last year, and this year I spun a bearing on my 2000 coupe so yeah...
1. Car-part.com has a 2000 ls1 with good compression with 100k on it for $1200 buy that swap your heads and cam and your back in business from there you can take apart the hurt motor and part out the good parts or you can rebuild it taking your time...go to different shop (I’m in your area and can tell you who to avoid) and back off your tune a hair.
2. Even though it might seem like a downgrade you can pick up 5.3 junkyard short blocks for 300-500 and they will take all the abuse you throw at them...stock these motors will hold over 800 hp and since you are boosted you can just go smaller on your pulley and end up with more power.
I was in your shoes last year, and this year I spun a bearing on my 2000 coupe so yeah...
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies.
As for comments related to miles, I would think people would want to know the miles on the trans. and rear, not just the engine. That is the reason I mention miles.
Again, thanks for the guidance.
As for comments related to miles, I would think people would want to know the miles on the trans. and rear, not just the engine. That is the reason I mention miles.
Again, thanks for the guidance.