danny99

Hey fellas, long story short, I need your expert opinions on two environments of storage:

1st storage setting is a fully enclosed indoor space ($320 a month)

2nd storage setting is a parking deck garage space (Less than $70 a month)

My dad is very paranoid and wants me to store it in the enclosed garage storage center and pay the outrageous $320 a month, his reasoning is "because its warm" there.

I would prefer the parking garage because it is cheaper. It is not fully enclosed, as with most parking garages, the walls have openings or breezeway holes, I am not sure what the term is exactly. But there are spots in the garage where I can tuck it away in a dark corner away from most of the weather elements, if not all of them.

The only concern would be the drop in temperature.

Whats your guys' thoughts? Can the parking garage suffice despite the breezeways? There are other sports and classic cars in there as well, so i don't see why not.

Side question: Would i just keep the negative cable disconnected on the battery during the cold winter season ? Should I bother to take frequent trips to the garage and start it up weekly?

grantv

I don't get it. Is this your car? Did he give it to you? If it's yours, it's your choice. Just sayin'
As for lot choice, I see no issue with either. The cold weather is fine. Is it a secure lot? Cameras? I'd not pay $320/month regardless. I'd go with the open garage, it's completely fine IMO. My garage is fully enclosed, but the garage door has leaks, the rear exit door a bit also, it drops below freezing. No problem.
And I'd not start it until spring at all, pull the battery out and store it out of the car somewhere (that one somewhere warm if possible).

captaineddie

$320 is a lot of money, especially when you consider the car is going to be stored for several months. I believe I'd go with the $70 option.

Fcar 98

Of the 20 years of ownership my corvette has been in a cold garage for 16 of them with no problems. I do run it if the roads are clean and dry. Not just starting it but running it for at least 20 to 30 highway miles. If you have no way to use a tender i would take the battery out of the car. Mine sits with the battery connected and no tender, but again i try to run the car as much as possible.

lavaheadache

if you were close to me I'd rent a bay for a fraction of that.

CJ1957

Where are you located? I agree with disconnecting and removing the battery or attach a battery tender to it in the car. Also, I’d place a breathable car cover on it too.

I’ve stored my cars outside but covered and it’s not that bad. I’ve also stored in a climate control facility that was very pricey but it really took good care of the car.

If you can recon a good spot in the outside storage place to keep away from most of the elements and possibly near an electrical outlet, it should be fine. I’d still throw a cover on it.

JR-01

Temp drop is not a problem if you prepare properly. I, too, would remove the battery and put it in your basement on a tender. You might want to do a little more checking. You might find a spot that better fits your needs.

bobs77vet

there are not many mice in cold cement parking garages....so thats in your favor.

ArmchairArchitect

You'd be saving $3,000 a year if you choose the outdoor space. Here's the easy way to decide- will the outdoor spot cause more than $3,000 in extra maintenance, paint correction, or damage per year? Highly doubt it.

If you choose to store it outside, I would buy the best cover you can buy. Something not only waterproof/breathable, but with microfiber/fleece lining so it won't scratch your paint as it moves around. This goes for whether it's indoor or outdoor, but possibly also add foam padding (eg. "bumper bully" type devices or just foam pipe insulation taped to the cover) in high risk areas around the car to help prevent damage from others (eg. doors opening, bad parkers), although the fiberglass body is more resilient than metal for minor impacts. But this

Using silicon grease (or 303, or Gummi Pflege) will help preserve any rubbers or plastic subject to deterioration/drying out.

Other than than, see threads on this forum about proper storage. I wouldn't start it up unless we're talking several months of non-use. Cold starts (meaning not up to operating temperate) starts create 90% of wear in motors. So I'd disconnect the battery and do the other storage measures.

deejbee

I owned a 2002 Camaro SS that I kept in a C-Can over the winter, and it gets COLD here (northern Canada)

I never started it over the winter. Parked it, disconnected the battery (both terminals) went back in the spring, reconnected the batter, started it up and drove away.

It never, ever suffered damage, ran perfectly, fired up first try, didn't leak... only issue was the tires would get flat spots but they would go away after driving for a little while.

If I HAD to I would park our C5 in cold weather. My only worry would be mice. Fortunately I have cheap indoor heated storage for it so I don't have to worry about it.

I think my reasoning is that I can drive by dealer storage lots here where they have $50 000 brand new trucks and cars parked outside, uncovered, in the elements over winter covered in snow and they obviously don't run them all... so if that is good enough for them, good enough for me. Plus, as stated above, I have never had any issues.

Vetteman Jack

$320/month is quite a bit for a closed storage space. Might want to check around a bit more to see if you can find something more reasonable. If not, pay the $70 and take your chances. Just be sure your insurance would cover the car should something happen while stored in the open garage.

Corvette#2

As long as the open garage is secure, and it's not exposed to snow or rain, I wouldn't worry about the cold. It shouldn't hurt the car. $320 is a lot to pay for a parking space.

grampi50

Are you sure about that? Almost everything I've seen over the years says NOT to use silicone based products on vehicle rubber (tires, door/window seals, etc.) as it destroys the UV properties of the rubber. Many say to use Vaseline on door and window seals, and non-silicone based tire dressings...

JR-01

GM recommends silicone grease for treating weatherstripping.

dbgoodwin

I'm not joking when I tell you that you would be paying more a month for your car storage than I am my mortgage, if you had it stored inside.

Time for a C-5

I don't like either option. Is there something in between? I'm paying $100 a month for storage in a building that's kept a little above freezing. I've used non-climate controlled storage in the past w/out concern but I would certainly want an enclosed space.

deejbee

RE: Treating weather stripping

Try find AC Delco 10953014 "Silicone Emulsion" if you can still find it, or even if they still make it.

If it is still around, it works well.

dmaxx3500

what-ever you do,take the battery out and take it home and on a trickle-charger/tender

grampi50

Then someone is wrong...either GM, or the scores of people over the years who have said silicone is bad for rubber and plastics...

JR-01

Many of the more knowledgeable people here recommend silicone grease. I have been here awhile now and have not seen anyone say not to use it. Some prefer other things, though.