Time to trash the Blose system..
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Time to trash the Blose system..
I’m posting this here too, because there hasn’t been any feedback in the audio forum, and we all know there’s much more traffic in c5gen, and I’m certain many of y’all have done audio mods..
So I’m fixin’ to start on my audio upgrade.. got a few questions..
Got 95% of what I’ll be installing ordered and on the way.. been trying to learn as much as possible before I tackle this project & tried to keep the budget around $1600’ish..
Here’s what I’m going with.. car is a 2000 coupe:
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4” h/u
Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Components w/ crossovers mounted to speaker plate & tweeters mounted in door pulls
JL C2 650 coax rears
JL 12W0V3-4 sub
Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp to power all speakers and sub
Flush mount sub box
Metra bezel
Natika backup camera
I also ordered 36’ sq ft of dynamat for various insulation, a knukoncepts 4 ga. amp installation kit, a Dewalt angle drill adapter to drill out factory bracket rivets, 50ft of 12 ga. speaker wire, adapter plates for components, an Alpine sub dB control ****, a metal grill to protect the sub, and 2 6.5 speaker spacers (Incase needed for rear coax)..
Now what I can’t seem to find anywhere is installation brackets for new h/u.. can’t find them on Amazon or eBay.. what should I do about that? Are they not required?
Since I’m powering all speakers off the amp, I’m assuming I need to run 3 separate RCA cables to the amp to individually control the fronts, rears, and sub.. that sound correct?
And what about connecting the power wire to the battery.. I believe my battery is a Duralast Gold with side posts only.. not sure if additional posts can be added to the top or not.. do y’all have any recommendations or preferred methods to cleanly connect to the battery?
I plan on mounting the amp vertically to the back wall under the hatch.. seems like a safe place to screw into.. do most folks run the backup camera through that rear wall/carpet area?
Lemme know what y’all think so far! All tips and advice are welcomed! I’m hoping this will go as smoothly as possible but like always “hope for the best, expect the worst”
So I’m fixin’ to start on my audio upgrade.. got a few questions..
Got 95% of what I’ll be installing ordered and on the way.. been trying to learn as much as possible before I tackle this project & tried to keep the budget around $1600’ish..
Here’s what I’m going with.. car is a 2000 coupe:
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4” h/u
Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Components w/ crossovers mounted to speaker plate & tweeters mounted in door pulls
JL C2 650 coax rears
JL 12W0V3-4 sub
Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp to power all speakers and sub
Flush mount sub box
Metra bezel
Natika backup camera
I also ordered 36’ sq ft of dynamat for various insulation, a knukoncepts 4 ga. amp installation kit, a Dewalt angle drill adapter to drill out factory bracket rivets, 50ft of 12 ga. speaker wire, adapter plates for components, an Alpine sub dB control ****, a metal grill to protect the sub, and 2 6.5 speaker spacers (Incase needed for rear coax)..
Now what I can’t seem to find anywhere is installation brackets for new h/u.. can’t find them on Amazon or eBay.. what should I do about that? Are they not required?
Since I’m powering all speakers off the amp, I’m assuming I need to run 3 separate RCA cables to the amp to individually control the fronts, rears, and sub.. that sound correct?
And what about connecting the power wire to the battery.. I believe my battery is a Duralast Gold with side posts only.. not sure if additional posts can be added to the top or not.. do y’all have any recommendations or preferred methods to cleanly connect to the battery?
I plan on mounting the amp vertically to the back wall under the hatch.. seems like a safe place to screw into.. do most folks run the backup camera through that rear wall/carpet area?
Lemme know what y’all think so far! All tips and advice are welcomed! I’m hoping this will go as smoothly as possible but like always “hope for the best, expect the worst”
#2
I had Dennis at Double D put mine in... he did a great job. I'm not real system savy. That aside, what he did and from what I've read of the forum is you do not want to screw in anything...he glued a mounting board to the wall in back of the passengers seat (I have a 'vert) and mounted the amp to that. Fear of puncturing the gas tank. That would be a bit of a mess.
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OleStraightStick (02-14-2018)
#3
Melting Slicks
You can power your amp from the bolt next to the fuse box in front of the battery location. its hot.
Also, there is a small opening/vent if you will on the driver side rear quarter panel behind the carpeting above the cubby hole area that will allow access to the outside of the car. You can run your wiring through there and remove the driver side taillight to access the cable.
Also, there is a small opening/vent if you will on the driver side rear quarter panel behind the carpeting above the cubby hole area that will allow access to the outside of the car. You can run your wiring through there and remove the driver side taillight to access the cable.
Last edited by chris308; 02-14-2018 at 06:39 PM.
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#6
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I had Dennis at Double D put mine in... he did a great job. I'm not real system savy. That aside, what he did and from what I've read of the forum is you do not want to screw in anything...he glued a mounting board to the wall in back of the passengers seat (I have a 'vert) and mounted the amp to that. Fear of puncturing the gas tank. That would be a bit of a mess.
You can power your amp from the bolt next to the fuse box in front of the battery location. its hot.
Also, there is a small opening/vent if you will on the driver side rear quarter panel behind the carpeting above the cubby hole area that will allow access to the outside of the car. You can run your wiring through there and remove the driver side taillight to access the cable.
Also, there is a small opening/vent if you will on the driver side rear quarter panel behind the carpeting above the cubby hole area that will allow access to the outside of the car. You can run your wiring through there and remove the driver side taillight to access the cable.
Yea I reckon I’ll be heading to Lowes to get stuff to rig something up
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Lol I definitely hear y’all on that.. the factory system sucks so much *** I leave mine turned wayyy down most of the time too.. but I wanna bring her up to modern times with some decent sound, phone connectivity, cosmetics, and a lil bit of the cool factor
#9
Pro
Member Since: Dec 2017
Location: Carol Stream (Chicago suburbs) IL
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I don't mean any disrespect here, I only mean to clarify that the reason the radio is off on my car, is because I enjoy driving it. I enjoy really good sound systems as much as the next person- but in my world they are best suited for home sound systems and in the automotive realm luxury vehicles. A Corvette is a sports car- one that in my opinion might arguably be better off with radio delete as the best option.
Good luck in your project.
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#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Actually, I think you miss the point. The factory stereo in my C5 is more than I need. It is off 99% of the time I am driving because I don't want the driving experience polluted by music.
I don't mean any disrespect here, I only mean to clarify that the reason the radio is off on my car, is because I enjoy driving it. I enjoy really good sound systems as much as the next person- but in my world they are best suited for home sound systems and in the automotive realm luxury vehicles. A Corvette is a sports car- one that in my opinion might arguably be better off with radio delete as the best option.
Good luck in your project.
I don't mean any disrespect here, I only mean to clarify that the reason the radio is off on my car, is because I enjoy driving it. I enjoy really good sound systems as much as the next person- but in my world they are best suited for home sound systems and in the automotive realm luxury vehicles. A Corvette is a sports car- one that in my opinion might arguably be better off with radio delete as the best option.
Good luck in your project.
#11
Night Owl for life
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On the other hand, some of us use our c5s as a daily driver and don't want to be stuck in the stone age.
Sometimes you need more than a loud exhaust and a CD player during your "driving experience"/daily commute.
Sometimes you need more than a loud exhaust and a CD player during your "driving experience"/daily commute.
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#13
Drifting
I’m waiting for a bezel from vette nuts but I though the bezels came with mounting hardware for the HU. I just checked on amazon and you can buy a mounting kit for less than $20.
#14
Instructor
Yea I would definitely be doing that if I were mounting it near the tank.. I’m talking about the very back wall, dead center, right below the rear hatch latch.. seems like a good place to me
Excellent I’ll keep that in mind!
Yea I reckon I’ll be heading to Lowes to get stuff to rig something up
Excellent I’ll keep that in mind!
Yea I reckon I’ll be heading to Lowes to get stuff to rig something up
I am in on the DD panel buy(dreadful group purchase)from Vettenuts and i could order brackets for the DD din installation through them but could be that you must buy there panel to get acces to brackets.
#17
Le Mans Master
http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l..._detail&p=1764
Last edited by jrprich; 02-15-2018 at 11:07 AM.
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EVLGTO (02-16-2018)
#19
I can certainly understand where the OP is coming from. I used to be big time into car audio, but my days of crawling around in car interiors to run wires and whatnot are long gone. Besides, I've lost a lot of my hearing due to high end audio systems. Now days I either listen to talk radio, or listen to the music I have on my phone with ear buds...sometimes just listening to the sound of a V-8 is enough music for me...
#20