Clutch choices
03-16-2018, 01:43 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Clutch choices
I'm just gathering information, seems my clutch slave is on it's way out and with all the work to get to it, might as well add a remote bleeder, new flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing.
The car is still stock, most likely I'm not going to do any mods to increase power, but you never know.
Is the C5 Z06 clutch setup better, or is it the same as C5?
Don't think C6 Z06 (LS7) would be right as it is heavy and may cause it to feel slower.
The car almost has 90K and the clutch doesn't slip but digging that deep it seems smart to replace while in there for the slave.
Also what is a good bleeder to add?
The car is still stock, most likely I'm not going to do any mods to increase power, but you never know.
Is the C5 Z06 clutch setup better, or is it the same as C5?
Don't think C6 Z06 (LS7) would be right as it is heavy and may cause it to feel slower.
The car almost has 90K and the clutch doesn't slip but digging that deep it seems smart to replace while in there for the slave.
Also what is a good bleeder to add?
03-16-2018, 03:38 PM
#2
1)
The stock LS1 clutch is fine for stock LS1 power. The stock LS6 clutch is "better" (more clamping force, etc), totally streetable.
The best value is indeed a stock clutch.
If you are certain you are going to add more power, budget a clutch for that power. If you're waffling about it ... just get an LS6 clutch and call it a day. Realistically, people do full heads-cam-ehxaust-tune-etc (425-450 rwhp at sea level, depending on choices) and drive on a stock LS6 clutch for the next 90k miles without any issues.
The LS6 clutch isn't really lighter or fancier, it's just designed to hold a fair bit more power.
Clutch life also depends on what you do; road course vs drag racing vs street (and even on street, whether you like to do clutch drops etc.) If you got a stock clutch to 90k, you can get another stock clutch to another 90k, no problem.
2)
Basically any bleeder will do fine. Something from (eg) Tick, or one of the vendors/brands that you can buy on Tick's website. A bleeder is just a bleeder. Some in theory allow for one-person operation but just assume it'll take two people.
3)
Don't forget the torque tube couplers and bearings. It's insurance. Not cheap insurance, but insurance. Chances are your rubber couplers are stiff and crappy at this point, anyways.
Bearings and couplers will put a somewhat unexpected dent in your budget. No doubt about it.
The stock LS1 clutch is fine for stock LS1 power. The stock LS6 clutch is "better" (more clamping force, etc), totally streetable.
The best value is indeed a stock clutch.
If you are certain you are going to add more power, budget a clutch for that power. If you're waffling about it ... just get an LS6 clutch and call it a day. Realistically, people do full heads-cam-ehxaust-tune-etc (425-450 rwhp at sea level, depending on choices) and drive on a stock LS6 clutch for the next 90k miles without any issues.
The LS6 clutch isn't really lighter or fancier, it's just designed to hold a fair bit more power.
Clutch life also depends on what you do; road course vs drag racing vs street (and even on street, whether you like to do clutch drops etc.) If you got a stock clutch to 90k, you can get another stock clutch to another 90k, no problem.
2)
Basically any bleeder will do fine. Something from (eg) Tick, or one of the vendors/brands that you can buy on Tick's website. A bleeder is just a bleeder. Some in theory allow for one-person operation but just assume it'll take two people.
3)
Don't forget the torque tube couplers and bearings. It's insurance. Not cheap insurance, but insurance. Chances are your rubber couplers are stiff and crappy at this point, anyways.
Bearings and couplers will put a somewhat unexpected dent in your budget. No doubt about it.
03-16-2018, 10:52 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
LS6 setup it is, any certain brands?
If I do mods the plan would most likely be CNC ported 799 heads, FAST intake, a new/better throttle body and injectors if needed, cam, long tube headers with high flow cats, and a Vararam.
Mail order or dyno tune.
Thought of a supercharger as a alternative such as A and A and headers.
It's hard to choose.
This would be in the future and I would get a new convertible top (original top has some tears) installed before doing mods.
I try to be gentle on the clutch, no WOT until clutch pedal is fully released.
Never taken to any racetrack and most likely never will.
I'm 40 years old now (got the car when I was 25), probably the #1 reason I finally decided stock is fine with me, if I mod it's only for fun, and not to be serious about trying to outrun other fast cars.
The LS6 clutch will help if I do up the power, if not it should drive just like stock, hopefully.
If I do mods the plan would most likely be CNC ported 799 heads, FAST intake, a new/better throttle body and injectors if needed, cam, long tube headers with high flow cats, and a Vararam.
Mail order or dyno tune.
Thought of a supercharger as a alternative such as A and A and headers.
It's hard to choose.
This would be in the future and I would get a new convertible top (original top has some tears) installed before doing mods.
I try to be gentle on the clutch, no WOT until clutch pedal is fully released.
Never taken to any racetrack and most likely never will.
I'm 40 years old now (got the car when I was 25), probably the #1 reason I finally decided stock is fine with me, if I mod it's only for fun, and not to be serious about trying to outrun other fast cars.
The LS6 clutch will help if I do up the power, if not it should drive just like stock, hopefully.
03-16-2018, 11:54 PM
#5
Night Owl for life
Member Since: Nov 2003
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good stuff to know.
I am 120k+ on my original 2000 clutch. not having issues but not sure how long a stock clutch generally lasts.
03-17-2018, 02:05 AM
#6
Team Owner
if you can find a C5Z06 clutch you will be paying more than the LS7 setup thats if you can even find one....just go with the LS7 stuff its a direct fit
Gene at Cultrag usually has a package deal going you may have to call him...make sure you tell him you are a CF member
Gene at Cultrag usually has a package deal going you may have to call him...make sure you tell him you are a CF member
03-17-2018, 06:17 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
if you can find a C5Z06 clutch you will be paying more than the LS7 setup thats if you can even find one....just go with the LS7 stuff its a direct fit
Gene at Cultrag usually has a package deal going you may have to call him...make sure you tell him you are a CF member
Gene at Cultrag usually has a package deal going you may have to call him...make sure you tell him you are a CF member
03-17-2018, 04:06 PM
#10
Banned Scam/Spammer
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
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Have your factory LS1/6 flywheel resurfaced and use this twin disk clutch. Smooth as butter and holds 800 rwhp for $750
http://www.tickperformance.com/mcleo...-capacity-800/
Get the remote slave bleeder will thank me later.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-firebird-ls1/
If you get that Mcleod clutch its designed to use the factory style master cylinder, do NOT use the Tick master cylinder with it. Personally I think the tick cylinder sucks dick regardless what clutch it's used with. Pedal effort is 33% stiffer. I hate it. Pushing the tick master cylinder in traffic is what I imagine it feels like emotionally to screw a mentally retarded girl.
http://www.tickperformance.com/mcleo...-capacity-800/
Get the remote slave bleeder will thank me later.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-firebird-ls1/
If you get that Mcleod clutch its designed to use the factory style master cylinder, do NOT use the Tick master cylinder with it. Personally I think the tick cylinder sucks dick regardless what clutch it's used with. Pedal effort is 33% stiffer. I hate it. Pushing the tick master cylinder in traffic is what I imagine it feels like emotionally to screw a mentally retarded girl.
03-17-2018, 06:07 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
03-17-2018, 09:33 PM
#14
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I personally hate the stock clutches but if you don't mod the car or race it then it will be ok for normal cruising... if you do mod the car such as heads/cam as mentioned in your post and you actually plan to use the added power (example - making a 1-4 gear pull) then I would stay away from a stock clutch and if you add a supercharger RUN away from a stock clutch
Last edited by neutron82; 03-17-2018 at 09:33 PM.
03-18-2018, 11:47 AM
#15
Pro
Have your factory LS1/6 flywheel resurfaced and use this twin disk clutch. Smooth as butter and holds 800 rwhp for $750
http://www.tickperformance.com/mcleo...-capacity-800/
Get the remote slave bleeder will thank me later.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-firebird-ls1/
If you get that Mcleod clutch its designed to use the factory style master cylinder, do NOT use the Tick master cylinder with it. Personally I think the tick cylinder sucks dick regardless what clutch it's used with. Pedal effort is 33% stiffer. I hate it. Pushing the tick master cylinder in traffic is what I imagine it feels like emotionally to screw a mentally retarded girl.
http://www.tickperformance.com/mcleo...-capacity-800/
Get the remote slave bleeder will thank me later.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-firebird-ls1/
If you get that Mcleod clutch its designed to use the factory style master cylinder, do NOT use the Tick master cylinder with it. Personally I think the tick cylinder sucks dick regardless what clutch it's used with. Pedal effort is 33% stiffer. I hate it. Pushing the tick master cylinder in traffic is what I imagine it feels like emotionally to screw a mentally retarded girl.
03-18-2018, 12:23 PM
#16
Pro
Absolutely,
I have the MMS RPS BC2, had new stock hydraulics installed,
didn't like the way it released at ~6000 RPM, had a Tick .750" Bore Master Replacement, pedal pressure feels the same but with smoother release/engagement.
03-20-2018, 09:57 AM
#17
Racer
I also just changed my stock clutch and even though I wanted the Mantic Er2, cost made me lean more towards the ls7 clutch kit. After a day or 2 of 'breaking it in', it feels just like stock. So far pretty happy with it. Especially because I do want to add some more power to it.
03-20-2018, 02:15 PM
#18
Pro
I also just changed my stock clutch and even though I wanted the Mantic Er2, cost made me lean more towards the ls7 clutch kit. After a day or 2 of 'breaking it in', it feels just like stock. So far pretty happy with it. Especially because I do want to add some more power to it.
03-20-2018, 03:42 PM
#19
Instructor
Just ordered a monster lt1s twin disk for my heads cam intake Z. Uses factory c7 organic disks so it will drive like stock but ha for 700rwtq. Could justify paying 3k for an RPS clutch when I wanted stock like driveability.
03-20-2018, 10:48 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Definatey go bigger than stock if you think you may add power. My stock clutch stopped holding immediately after (mild) cam/heads. I've had a level2 Monster clutch with a steel flywheel in for a season. Two thumbs up...nice engagement and only slightly heavier than stock pedal. My set-up is no where near the 550tq it's rated to hold.