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Mine is lowered on stock bolts and I have seen some on the ground ,All I am going to say is were do you live and can you drive on the roads in this Corvette way lowered , Right now I AM GOING TO THE GRAGE TO CHECK THE BOTTOM OF MY 04 TO SEE WHAT DAMAGE I Have FROM A RUN this past weekend and mine is lowered on stock bolts ,Just saying be carful lowering it ..
i hear ya.
i had my mustang dropped a good 2.25" static... but i would hit the subframe braces usually rather than anything else...
i'm just not sure where i'm at yet with the vette. which starts lower stock.
Thanks!. everything in me wants to slam it. But i have to figure out the plan first. whether or not i'm going to do coilovers or swap mono's or what.
I lowered mine with aftermarket bolts and Billstein shocks and I love the stance. It would be the icing on the cake to the looks of your ride, but don't go too low or you will be on the bump stops. I slammed mine in the rear and had to come back up as the ride was killing me. Coilovers are next on my wish list but I have been able to get by very economically for now. As far as damaging the bottom, driving techniques and prudence can keep you from avoiding damage. taking speed bumps or laydown curbs, approaches, etc..at severe angles and at a crawl helps. You will figure it out I am sure!
I lowered mine with aftermarket bolts and Billstein shocks and I love the stance. It would be the icing on the cake to the looks of your ride, but don't go too low or you will be on the bump stops. I slammed mine in the rear and had to come back up as the ride was killing me. Coilovers are next on my wish list but I have been able to get by very economically for now. As far as damaging the bottom, driving techniques and prudence can keep you from avoiding damage. taking speed bumps or laydown curbs, approaches, etc..at severe angles and at a crawl helps. You will figure it out I am sure!
That's kinda my dilemma. drop it now and align it or just wait and do coilovers this fall/winter.
non catted shown
Going to probably do an ECS mail tune for now until the blower goes on over the winter and i'll have OST do a tune then in the spring...
Cool , better watch those TX . speed guys they might talk you into some big HP then what you going to do .. You know or maybe not we here in the big state of TX have is what is called Hp wars ,you will need $%^&** HP to even keep up . I have friends with ^&*( HP saying things like : will I guess that will have to do for now .. It' scary around here .. NO numbers the man might be watching .. Keeping big HP to the ground is a problem in a C-5 but can be fixed ,just have to put some money in the rear end of the thing ..
I installed TS headers and catted x this winter, really like them. Just a few tips if you install yourself; 1. Both headers go in from the top if you remove valve covers and starter on pass side (I know some don't have to remove starter just unbolt, mine had to come off completely) when you reinstall the starter leave the pass header hanging by the front bolt, put starter back in and tighten 2 starter bolts, you can't get to them after the header is installed. 2. Leave everything loose, especially the header bolts just barely started and install the x pipe on the loose headers, install everything all the way back then last tighten the header bolts, re-torque after driving for a day. 3. Make sure header flanges are flat and flanges that bolt up to the axle back, mine were not so I took them to the local machine shop for a touch up. Good luck, you will really enjoy the headers and the sound/power increase.
Forgot; steering shaft has to be unbolted in the front, don't let the steering wheel move while unbolted, install DS header from top then reattach steering shaft bolt.
Last edited by tombrammer; 03-29-2018 at 12:49 PM.
I installed TS headers and catted x this winter, really like them. Just a few tips if you install yourself; 1. Both headers go in from the top if you remove valve covers and starter on pass side (I know some don't have to remove starter just unbolt, mine had to come off completely) when you reinstall the starter leave the pass header hanging by the front bolt, put starter back in and tighten 2 starter bolts, you can't get to them after the header is installed. 2. Leave everything loose, especially the header bolts just barely started and install the x pipe on the loose headers, install everything all the way back then last tighten the header bolts, re-torque after driving for a day. 3. Make sure header flanges are flat and flanges that bolt up to the axle back, mine were not so I took them to the local machine shop for a touch up. Good luck, you will really enjoy the headers and the sound/power increase.
Forgot; steering shaft has to be unbolted in the front, don't let the steering wheel move while unbolted, install DS header from top then reattach steering shaft bolt.
awesome thank you! i was hoping someone who had them would chime in. i watched some videos on youtube but nobody with the texas speed ones made a vid.
i'm not sure when i'll get to putting them on. if we get a stretch of crummy weather i'll probably do it over the course of a couple evenings. being that the car is so new to me i'm dying to drive it lol.
also, did you just put a straight edge on the flange to check it?
Thanks man! the instruction is a huge help. i was hoping i'd be able to go in through the top and not through the bottom.
Yes, they were not too far off, yours may be fine. I also welded the rear 02 bungs for the rear 02 sensors as my tuner said it would be much better to run with them in than just deleting them from the tune. I used a mail order tuner from the forum which worked out fine.
Yes, they were not too far off, yours may be fine. I also welded the rear 02 bungs for the rear 02 sensors as my tuner said it would be much better to run with them in than just deleting them from the tune. I used a mail order tuner from the forum which worked out fine.
you know i didn't even realize they don't have bungs for the downstream o2's on there. what direction did you point your o2? I'll do the same. I live in an emissions state. and like many people "i have a guy" but i like to keep my stuff legit when i can. also i figured the cats would help with drone and what not. my mustang droned horribly without cats but was fine with. Figured i'd try and stay as legal as i could and try and avoid that.
Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; 03-29-2018 at 01:06 PM.
Alright so the long tubes get here tomorrow. Yesterday i spent about 2 hours driving around in this and i just can't take this shifter anymore. I put it up for sale. (it's a hurst). I ordered a C6 shifter for a more factory feel.
and i figured while i was at it, I might as well get to some of the other outstanding stuff i wanted to do inside so...
I ripped the dash out to do the HUD. Since i was halfway there anyway.
that jigsaw made quick and clean work of trimming the dash for the bezel.
Figuring out how to drill holes for these bolts was a pain too.
I ended up using self tapping bolts and the electric ratchet. It was still a bit of a pain but i don't know how guys were getting a drill in there. This was basically against the glass (very very close)
but i got it in and up and running:
pretty cool you can just add these for less than 300 bucks in ebay parts.
Next on the list for the inside is the bluetooth module for the factory radio and the new shifter.
you know i didn't even realize they don't have bungs for the downstream o2's on there. what direction did you point your o2? I'll do the same. I live in an emissions state. and like many people "i have a guy" but i like to keep my stuff legit when i can. also i figured the cats would help with drone and what not. my mustang droned horribly without cats but was fine with. Figured i'd try and stay as legal as i could and try and avoid that.
I angled the rear 02's toward the inside and just guessed, it turned out pretty good. I stuck an old 02 with the bung screwed on in the hole I drilled to keep weld splatter out of the threads while welding the bung on the x pipes.
I angled the rear 02's toward the inside and just guessed, it turned out pretty good. I stuck an old 02 with the bung screwed on in the hole I drilled to keep weld splatter out of the threads while welding the bung on the x pipes.
Thats what i was going to do. did the harnesses reach ok?
Just ordered the Aldan American Phantom Adjustable Coilover System with the short bodies. so it'll be a 1.5" drop (or lower if i want it). i'm a little nervous about that but i figured i wanted at least a 1" drop. the long bodies max out at 1.5... soooooooo i just went for the short bodies.
Just ordered the Aldan American Phantom Adjustable Coilover System with the short bodies. so it'll be a 1.5" drop (or lower if i want it). i'm a little nervous about that but i figured i wanted at least a 1" drop. the long bodies max out at 1.5... soooooooo i just went for the short bodies.
Nice build thread going on. Looking good. I want these same Coilovers also. Which spring rate did you go with for the front and rear. I’m nervous with our roads in Pa.
Nice build thread going on. Looking good. I want these same Coilovers also. Which spring rate did you go with for the front and rear. I’m nervous with our roads in Pa.
So after talking to them i ended up doing the shorter shock bodies. so since i went shorter i went with the 550/650 track springs.
if you look up you'll see the mustang i had which was really slammed. i wanted an inch which is about max on the longer shock length but min on the shorter ones. So rather than max out the longer shocks i went shorter and i have room to drop if I want...
also, as far as pa roads... ya they suck. But a pothole is a pothole. Whether i'm dropped 1" or not at all. (i'm near pittsburgh)
Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; 04-03-2018 at 04:00 PM.
03-26-2018, 09:25 AM
