So I just got back from talking with the Geek Squad stereo install tech at Best Buy and he said that with the Bose system - "You either replace it all or nothing." The factory head unit can't drive the door speakers on its own and there is no "drop-in amp" for the doors that will work with the factory head unit (which I want to keep) - I'm tempted to believe him.

Has anyone tried removing the factory amp from the Bose speaker unit and remounting it onto the "maple cutouts" (which I've already bought) to drive replacement speakers?

Regarding the rear speakers - are they too driven by an amp? One separate from that in the door?

 

Not a sterophobe by any means, but I did replace my door and rear speakers a year before I replaced the head unit with a double din.

Not sure if that's what you're looking for.

 

The twiddlers in the door are driven directly by the head unit (after some processing by the amp). The rear speakers are driven directly by the head unit. Only the 8" subwoofers are driven by the special Bose amp. The stock amps, which are in the doors attached to the door speaker mounting plate, cannot be used to drive any other speaker as far as I know.

 

When you say "I replaced the door speakers" exactly what was replaced? You yanked the entire Bose speaker unit and replaced both speakers and amp - or you replaced one or the other speaker in the integrated Bose unit?

 

That seems to be the killer - I was hoping the Bose amp could be used to drive an aftermarket speaker (with possible wire cutting/soldering/etc)....

 

While chasing this - I did find another interesting article...

https://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_1...ne-2-2003.html

 

More info about this convoluted system....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...e-wiring-tips/

 

Here's what I remember... Dennis at DD had a speaker upgrade package for the C5's. I bought that package and it was purely pull out the old speaker install the new speaker. I have the boxes tucked away. If it would help I'll dig them out and let you know what I installed.

 

I went with the JL speaker upgrade kit from Dennis as well. For my convertible, the speakers were:

JL C2-350X 3.5" Front Coax Speakers

JL C2-525X 5.25" Rear Coax Speakers

Metra 72-4568 GM Speaker Connectors

Now, do know that the 5.25" are for the verts only, the coupes need the C2 650X 6.5"

I will say that this upgrade made a very nice improvement in overall clarity and volume. For the $225 or so, this is a very highly recommended mod.

 

BTW, I just found Dennis's post on this:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...w-choices.html

 

I get it - we are just replacing the speakers that are driven directly by the head unit - and leaving the bigger one in the door alone - I can deal with that.

Anyone want to buy a set of "new in the wrap" maple speaker cutouts

 

His web page seems to be kaput?

 

I began answering your questions when I realized I already had done it in the other thread you opened last month asking basically the same. I guess you missed the information provided, or you just didn't trust it.

There is a lot of misinformation on this subject and the proof is that out of the 2 articles you found, only the 2nd one is providing accurate information. Never has been more true the old advice of taking with a grain of salt (or a lot!) when the (mis)information is coming from the same source that is looking at a "potential" sale.

You would do a disservice to yourself believing him. Of course you can take everything out and replace all from scratch, but you can also:

1. Replace just the headunit, leaving the rest of the system intact using
   • Axxess XSVI-2004
     Axxess XSVI-2004
     (this one preserves the RAP feature)
   • Pac Audio ROEM-VET1
     Pac Audio ROEM-VET1
2. Keep the headunit, but replace everything else adding a multichannel external amp driving new speakers through new wires by using
   • PAC AOEM-VET1
     PAC AOEM-VET1
3. Replace just the 4 twiddlers with 2-way coaxial speakers leaving the rest of the system intact
   • Post No. 5 (from previous thread)
4. Combine 1 and 3

The powered subwoofers are part of the Bose system and they are handled by the Bose Signal Processor (located by the gas pedal). It is better not to mess with them because they are tightly integrated with the system and have an uncommon impedance. On the other hand, I have not seen another subwoofer that physically fits.

This is how the front 3.5" twiddlers are replaced (there is no need for new mounting plates):



As previously explained, all 4 twiddlers are directly driven by the headunit. There are no other amps besides the built-in 4-channel amp inside the headunit and the 2 subwoofer amps in the doors.

From the linked article:
Independent confirmation that upgrading the 4 twiddlers makes a noticeable and worthwhile upgrade: Post No. 8 from previous thread.

 

I now understand what's going on and I'm just going to go with the Double-D kit

 

Those were the speakers I recommended you before. Later on I found out Mrmagloo had them as well, and his recommendation came with first hand experience.

I was wondering what you ended up doing because you never came back to your old thread. Let us know how it goes

JL Audio Evolution™ C2 Series 2-way car speakers:

• C2-350X (3-1/2")
• C2-525X (5-1/4")
• C2-650X (6-1/2")

You are going to need

this kit

this kit

as well. One kit will do both rears.

 

Thanks - this is going to be a fairly comprehensive "door project"

- Replace balky drivers side switch (add LED lights both sides)
- Replace inner and outer weatherstrips (found used inners on ebay)
- Replace front "twiddlers" (and rear while I'm at it)

Will post updates...

 

Sounds like fun!

If you buy the speaker harness I mentioned above, replacing the rear twiddlers becomes just plug-and-play and you won't have to cut or splice anything. Just attach the spade connectors to the new 2-way coaxial speakers and plug the other end to the OEM connectors that were attached to the old rear twiddlers. One kit will do both rears.

My understanding is that the wires to the front 3.5" twiddlers are soldered, so you would have to desolder them and then solder again to the new 2-way coaxial speakers.

Just a word of caution here: Bose does use the same narrow/wide spade terminals in its speakers that other manufacturers use, BUT they don't follow the common standard, so their polarity is REVERSED.

Pay attention to the + and - signs in ALL speakers terminals and, for example, use a red permanent marker to identify the + wire in each speaker before unplugging or desoldering anything. Then make sure your new connections are done keeping the CORRECT polarity.

 

Most of the speakers I've looked at have 2 mounting points not 4 - has anyone had an issue with these 2-point speakers?

 

Mine was mounted with two screws. No issues at all. 3.5s are small and not that heavy.

 

Okay guys, I've decided to replace my front and rear twiddlers on my '02 coupe with the JL set, which are now on order along with the wire adapters. Questions: do the speaker grills pop off and, if they do, can I change out the speakers without removing the door panels or the trim around the rears? The door panels seem pretty easy, but the rear not so much. My record with those white plastic tabs is not great and I'd like to avoid them if possible.

Thanks!

Barney