bigmackloud

Thanks for the kind words (and for subscribing). Definitely appreciated.


I'm working on an official "1st Start-Up" video for the channel, but just for you guys here's a teaser clip I recorded on my phone last night. I washed it (had 1.5 years of garage dust on it), and took it out for it's maiden voyage last night!

This video is unlisted, so you won't find it on my channel. Just for you guys.

Titan 4 cam, XS Power LT headers 3" catted x-pipe, 2.5" Corsa mufflers/axle-back. It's louder than I remembered, haha. And this cam definitely has more chop than the TR 220/220 cam that was in it before.


Tommy - Can't wait to hear yours running soon!!

tommypenguin

Your car sounds awesome! How did you drive it on your first few runs? When’s the dyno day? Did you load a base tune for the new cam?

I’m a bit torn on how I will go about breaking in my car this time. I’ve read it’s VERY important to do a few redline pulls in the first few miles to seat rings. Also know it’s important to do at least one heat cycle. Would love to get your opinion or others on how to break in the motor. Last time I babied the car and only did light throttle to red line a handful of times in first gear to keep engine load down.

Thinking this time getting it up to running temp with the heater on to get the fans to going. Turn off, let it cool down, look for leaks and change oil/filter. Then start it up and get to running temp and go for a drive. Should be fine to do a few 1st gear redline pulls as the only major changes to my build are I’m running dished pistons and forged rods. Was going to put the low boost 6psi pulley on for the break in pulls. Then swap the 8 or 10psi pulley on before hitting the dyno. Lastly will swap oil and filter at 50 and 500miles before the dyno. Please feel free to critique the plan.



As for progress been slow going this week. I forgot I stripped a valley cover bolt at some point and had to order a helicoil to fix, it’s m8 x 1.25 if anyone needs to know. Got that on and have done a couple wire repairs and adding some insulation. Going to go hardcore tonight and this weekend. All that is left is the suspension, intake, supercharger and PS/Alternator.

bigmackloud

I've read several different opinions on engine break-in, etc. Some say break it in like you plan to drive (ie run it hard). Others do several heat cycles, etc. Not entirely sure which is "best."

My first drive was rather cautious. Tried to vary the rpms and engine loads. I've read that the vacuum on decel is also important for ring seating. Also, I've literally had the entire car apart, so it's also a shake down run to make sure nothing in the suspension/brakes is loose, etc.

It's kind of a catch 22. I installed a new clutch and Monster recommends 500 miles of stop/go driving to temper the clutch material by heat cycling. Otherwise it won't hold its rated power. So WOT redline pulls seem like a bad idea until then. I also have larger injectors to go in it when I hit the dyno, as I'm likely to run out of fuel with the stock injectors. So again, I don't want to get too crazy.

I'm still running the tune I had before, which had long tubes and a smaller cam. So it seems to run well enough for the moment, though the new motor has better heads, larger cam, and higher compression. My main issue is that it doesn't like to idle when I come to a stop sign. So I haven't ventured into traffic yet. Not sure if it's still doing the idle relearn and adjusting short/long term fuel trims.

The weather is going to be nice for the next few days so I'm going to take it out a bit more.


Tommy - It's crazy how many small details there are to do. It's the little stuff that really eats up your time, like extending wiring, or adding heat insulation, and zip tying wires so they don't sit on the headers. Those details have to be done, but they're not as satisfying as installing the big items. Good luck this weekend!

Route99

I'm a see and do it type myself. Always works better for me than just verbal. Thanks for the videos!

4XLR8N

Engine break-in is like discussions about the best oil...everyone has an opinion...

What I was taught way back when, and what I have followed to this day, for a new engine is:

Vary engine rpm, never running a constant speed for too long (more than 10 minutes)

NEVER lug the engine (important even after break-in, but especially important during)

Use engine braking to reverse the load on internal components

Do not run engine past 3500 rpm during break-in

Change out break-in oil after 500 miles

Change oil again at 1500 miles

Now, these are the rules I follow for street engines. Race engines would be a different story.

I consider the break-in period to be 1500 miles.

Never had a mechanical engine problem using this method.

YMMV

tommypenguin

That's comparable to how I did it last time. Probably over thinking it... This is a street application that will really only get pushed when merging onto the high way and passing cars.

Suspension is back in, wiring underneath is done, oil pump is primed, grounds and sensors are connected.

4XLR8N

Your build is very impressive...thanks for giving us the chance to "come along for the ride"

tommypenguin

Thanks, at this point I just hope it starts. Am so close to finding out going to have to get my car registered and insured so I can legally drive it.

Ran the vent kit, all the plumbing behind the manifold. The vent kit fits with my fast intake it is a tight fit behind the manifold but a little easier with the Hinson 3/8 shorter engine mounts. Fuel is in and dip stick. Was super hard to get the bolt. In for the dip stick on the ls3 pan. ,Next up more wire clean up, up top then power steering, water pump and alternator probably tomorrow.

Then radiator, tb, supercharger, and interior. A day spent working with fluids and turn key time. Not going to hit my may 1st goal, probably be a couple days late.



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tommypenguin

Power steering, alternator, water pump, coil packs, plug wires and throttle body are in. Radiator and supercharger next.

bigmackloud

Tommy - Awesome progress! It feels so good seeing big chunks go back together.

I drove mine around a bit this weekend. Runs awesome except the idle at stoplights. Still finicky, but does seem to be getting a little better as I get some miles on it. But I'm not confident enough to drive it to work yet, as my commute is an hour of stop-n-roll traffic. My nerves can't take that yet, haha.

I've got 50 miles on it now, so I'm going to drop the oil and cut open the filter. Hopefully don't see anything crazy.

I'll also say that I'm really impressed with how quiet the valvetrain is. I did the Straub trunnion upgrade and it really reduced the rocker/lifter noise.

tommypenguin

That’s awesome everything is going well, hopefully the filter looks good after cutting it open. My valve train has always had the ls1 sewing machine noise to it. I’ve never researched the trunnion upgrade till you mentioned it. It’s a fairly cheap upgrade to do and cheap insurance, any chance you made a video on how to install them into the rocker or can refer me to a step by step? Sounds like I need a harbor freight arbor press, will research more tonight.

Now you have me debating on if I should hold off on my engine startup to pop out the rockers and do the upgrade. It doesn’t change any of the rocker geometry, sounds like it is good insurance. Luckily if I decide to do the upgrade I can continue forward and do everything else in the interim and just pull the coil packs and valve covers. Seems like I can’t stop finding things to add for safety.

bigmackloud

I sure did. It's really not difficult to do. I used a HF arbor press. A hydraulic press would be fine too, just gotta be careful you don't apply too much pressure if something isn't moving. I didn't use it, but I later saw that Comp makes a trunnion install tool to help keep things lined up. I was already finished so I didn't dig into it too much, but you might look into it a bit.

I hear ya on the constant list of upgrades. I'm the world's worst for the "might as well" disease. I've got something apart, so I "might as well" upgrade X while I'm in there, haha.

tommypenguin

Right on, glad you posted the video! Thanks, will watch it tonight. If anyone asks I will blame you for holding me up on trying to turn the key

I'm going to do the trunnion upgrade before starting the motor. If my needle bearings failed I would be kicking myself. I called straub and the kit is on backorder, I placed an order but was told in could be a couple of weeks.

I know to stay away from comp cams for the trunnion upgrade. What made you select them over BTR or CHE? If BTR or CHE is good quality I might forego waiting for straub to go with a different brand.

In the interim while waiting for that will toss the radiator and supercharger in the car. Also get the interior back together and pull the fuel pump and relay fuses. If time permits will take the intake manifold off and wrap all of my AN fittings for the steam vent kit in teflon tape.

bigmackloud

I didn't research the CHE or BTR that closely but I believe they are all VERY similar. Honestly it's not an overly complicated design. I would do a basic comparison, and then probably go with what is available now.

Though I will say I had a question during the install and called Straub... and the owner/designer himself answered the phone and provided tech support. That's super rare these days. So while I highly recommend Straub, I also completely understand not wanting to wait on back-ordered parts.

tommypenguin

Watched your video last night, looked super easy to install the trunnion kit. You are right, I did the research last night and found that BTR, Summit and Straub make a comparable kits. The main feature is to go with a bushing design and not a bearing. BTR was sold out but I did find a seller on ebay that offers brand new BTR sets for sale installed into the rockers. Given I would need to buy an arbor press and snap ring pliers I figured I would just order from him and forego picking up the tools this time around.

To avoid any more back tracking I ordered an offset 1 1/16 wrench and snap on 1 1/16 crowfoot socket. Hoping one of them allows me to rotate the crank with my ARP crank bolt with the steering rack in place to get the cam on base lobe for removing/installing rockers. Otherwise I will have to remove ABS bracket, power steering cooler and steering rack to slip out of the way to get a socket on arp crank bolt.

Have to hold up on installing the radiator and supercharger in lieu of possibly having to move the steering rack. Will do interior tonight and get the steam vent fittings wrapped in Teflon tape.

Cleaned the garage for a couple hours last night and dissembled the engine stand. Should have built a workbench prior to doing this job, such is life when moving into a new home. Only have time for so many projects.

bigmackloud

Yea, I always look for an excuse to buy a tool, but often it doesn't actually save much money or time. So pre-loaded rockers sounds like a good route to keep the project moving.


A while back I built a 4'x4' work table. The primary purpose was to be an out-feed table for my table saw, but for the past year it's been my work bench for engine parts. I used Melamine plywood, and it's worked out really well. Very durable surface and cleans up easily with brake cleaner. My wife has completely given up on parking in the garage, haha. One side is the Corvette, and the other bay is my work table, part boxes, tires, engine hoist, etc.

tommypenguin

Am no stranger to making excuses to buy tools 😊 This round of engine building I bought a bore gauge, micrometer set, nice balancer installer tool, precision flat edge, comp valve spring tool, pin kit, and many more. I’m trying to minimize the ones that take up a lot of space. My wife will not allow for her car to be parked outside and with the heat coming in I don’t want to park my genesis outside either.

Given my house had built in cabinets and I’m using all the rest of the space, my only real option for a workbench is to build a wall mounted folding one. I have blue printed how I will do it but have put it on the back burner. Bummer in phoenix they don’t do basements very often.

Got the interior back together last night and pulled the intake manifold again. Teflon taped the coolant vent fittings. Hit a minor snag last night, noticed that I punctured my intercooler coupler pipe from the air dam screw at some point prior to the motor build had to order a replacement coupler from A&A. Was likely causing a small boost leak. Might have to pull the bumper to install the coupler. This week has felt like 2 steps forward and 1 step back. I’m done targeting a date at this point, it will get done when it gets done, waited this long am not going to rush.

tommypenguin

WelpWelp, with my offset wrench on the crank I can’t turn the crank more than like a 1/8 of an inch with the steering rack in the way. Have no choice but to move the steering rack out of the way. Glad I didn’t put the radiator in would be more back tracking.

Also noticed the clip on my evap purge line is broken to manifold. Need to run to the store today and pickup some fuel 3/8 fuel line to replace that hose. Will get the steering rack back out of the way tonight and get a socket on the crank bolt. Might bleed the clutch tonight with the remote bleeder if time permits.

Robrote

tommypenguin

Got a socket on the crank. I had the hardest time getting the tie rods out of the LCAs. It has been a piece of cake previously, any tips on how to easily remove? I ended up having to pull the control arm/shock on the passenger side disconnecting. Then I was able to lift the steering rack up and pull forward enough to slip my socket and rachet on the crank bolt.

Pulled the first rocker off in anticipation of the new rockers with trunnion kit coming in today. Replaced the evap line hose with fuel line hose.

Used the speed bleeder for the clutch, that has got to be one of the best mods out there. Fill up an empty water bottle with a little break fluid, crack open the speed bleeder end, put the bleeder hose end in the water bottle with brake fluid submerging the end of the bleeder. Fill clutch reservoir, pump clutch pedal 10 times, fill reservoir and repeat. I went through probably 12 ouces of fluid, then tighten bleeder and verify you have firm clutch pedal pressure.

Hope to have the rockers and steering rack back together tonight.