The literature I read when I bought my RST is its good for 800. (The RXT is 1000)

Should be more than capable of handling most cars on the forum.

I’ve not taken mine off after instal but I had my stock flywheel resurfaced. Some of the appeal was the cost factor and dumping money on a flywheel negates the purpose. This is advertised as an 800hp clutch so 550rwhp is well within the margin.

My flywheel had a couple blue spots but after machining it was solid raw/white metal all across. If you decide on this clutch get a metal alignment tool as the plastic version won’t keep both disks perfectly aligned when tightening the pressure plate. Makes it impossible to stab the input shaft of the torque tube past both disks. Got a metal tool and retorqued the PP and then the TT installed like butter.

Also make sure the McLeod will install onto the dowels of your flywheel. Best to check this on the ground BEFORE you have the flywheel mounted to the crank. Ask me how I know. I ended up taking the FW off, knocking out the dowels and tapering the tips slightly so the holes in the McLeod plate would slide over. Tap the pins back in the flywheel, test fit on the ground and THEN install the flywheel onto the engine.

You’ve just learned the easy way.

1) a year but not driven much
2) don’t know, street tuned not dyno tuned
3)redline/weekend toy
4)pedal was on the floor with the stock (2nd new LS6) clutch after maybe 6 gear changes wide open. Drive easy for 5 minutes and maybe one or two shifts before limp pedal. Let the car cool off and repeat. I’m sure some of the 2nd and 3rd gear issues I found when I took the box apart is due to procrastinating in changing the clutch sooner. It wasn’t a daily and time went by, but each time you scratch the gear the slider is grinding and damaging the engagement teeth on the gear. Each gear cost $330 from the cheapest place to get oem Tremec.

I have no regrets with the RST aside from learning what I’ve mentioned the hard way.

5) Side note- my old c6z had an RXT when I bought it and it was flawless. Sold the car when I bought my old c5z back.

6) forgot to mention to install a remote speed bleeder when you swap the clutch. I got mine from Tick ($50)

still putting it all together after tearing the transmission back out to rebuild it.

So my car is stock, and I will need a clutch sooner or later, maybe transmission work also, trouble getting in gears at times.

I want to do it myself(the clutch job, not rebuild t56) even though it seems complicated, and only want to do it once, hey the clutch from when the car was built in 1998 still works with no slipping. Lol

Anyways, I was thinking why not upgrade the clutch, in case I do want to do mods, that a and a supercharger kit sounds like a nice way to go, or even if it is always stock, this clutch, the 800hp one can't cause any trouble?
Reuse stock flywheel, does it need to be resurfaced, this would eliminate the balance issue of a new flywheel and clutch?

"But is a multi-disc clutch overkill for a stock or near-stock Corvette? Not necessarily, says Taylor. “Our base model RST clutch holds up to 800 horsepower. I’ve actually recommended this clutch for stock C5’s just because of the drivability and light pedal effort.”

For those of you unfamiliar with McLeod and their offerings, ‘RST’ means ‘Red’s Street Twin.’ “We developed it back in 2006, and it has become the most popular clutch that we sell today, by far,” Red claims. “It is patented, and will bolt to most OE flywheels. The adapter ring is what’s patented. The beauty of the RST package is that it is a modular clutch assembly. It’s a complete bolted-together package that means you don’t even have to take the flywheel off the car to resurface it. You can just leave it alone. You just take the clutch out of the box, set it on the dowel pins, torque down the six bolts, and it’s already lined up on the spline. All you have to do then in slide the transmission back in, and away you go. There’s no need to align the splines because they’ve already done it for you, and the clutch has its own surface.”

Hints and Tips

• Clutch installation: “One thing I like to do when I’m installing any double disc – right before I tighten down the pressure plate, and I still have the line-up tool through the disc, I like to rotate the tool in either direction, it doesn’t matter which. And what that does is align the leading edges of the splines on each disc, and makes installing the transmission much easier. What happens if you just throw the disc up there is that it is possible to have one disc preloaded one way, and the other disc preloaded the other, and even through you can get the line-up tool in and out, it will make getting the transmission in there very tight.”
• Reusing parts: “Always check your pilot bushings – C6’s have a pilot bearing rather than a bushing. Just get a slide hammer or puller and go to town. Even Harbor Freight sells a nice puller that’s really inexpensive. The replacements are very inexpensive, and just plain cheap insurance against a whole host of problems. You don’t want to skimp on a $10 part, and cost yourself 10 hours trying to R&R the clutch.”
• Diagnosing clutch chatter:“80% of the time the problem is with the clutch, usually the disc. That means that the other 20% of the time the problem is something else: motor mounts, transmission mounts, pilot bushing, misaligned bell housing. So when you have a chatter in your clutch, there are several other things that you need to take a look at besides just the clutch.”
• Flywheel surface finish: “I’ve come across guys who are so proud of their polish job that they’ve done on their flywheel, making it look like chrome. But that will cause chatter, because the flywheel is a seat-in surface and there needs to be plenty of bite to it. You don’t want your flywheel to be perfectly smooth; it needs to have some texture to it for the clutch to properly seat.”

I found this while doing a search for putting a stronger than stock clutch on a C5, I think having the good clutch and transmission rebuilt (if needed) the chance for engine mods would go way up.

In my mind, it makes sense to have a good clutch and good shifting transmission before adding cam, heads, FAST intake etc, or A and A supercharger.

Have been stalling on clutch and transmission work because it seems like such a big job.

I find the clutch to be fairly quiet once broken in. I’ve ran an RST in the car for about 3.5yrs now. At first install I had botched the pilot bearing. It was quite noisy.

If there’s noise now it’s quite minimal. Faint if it’s more than stock; where the OG throw out rattles anyhow. I run the updated 05 design and a McLeod billet flywheel at stock weight. Another unmentioned is this is an SFI rated part. I’d trust it FAR more than increasing a high output clamping load on a stock flywheel.

The car sees a fair amount of abuse. It just takes it. On my current lower power levels it’ll slip slightly on slicks from a 5500 rpm launch; or at least stink but grip. For an under 400whp bolt on car I’d recommend it to anyone. The reduced throw to engagement also prevents the high rpm lockout.

My friend ran an RST in an heavy 800+whp s197 car for awhile. Never missed a beat.