Best Low-Profile Harbor Freight Floor Jack?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Best Low-Profile Harbor Freight Floor Jack?
Sorry, I searched for a thread about this and couldn't find it. I need a new floor jack to get under my C5 and I see HF has a bunch of them. Recommendations? Alternate makes? This would be for 'shade tree mechanic' use so not looking to spend big bucks for a jack that can be used in a commercial setting.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Drifting
I have 2 of the 1.5 ton alum jacks and a 3 ton "low profile heavy duty" steel jack (all HF).
The alum ones are nice in that they are light and I used to take them with me to track events, perfect for that. Problem with them is they do not lift very high, for big jobs where you need more ground clearance (or you just want the car higher up to give you more space to roll around under).
The 3 ton steel jack is great all around, its just heavier. Not a big deal for around the garage use, but if you were regularly picking it up and taking it places, that would get old. It actually has a lower minimum height than the 1.5 alum jacks and can fit in some spots that I can't get the alum ones without first lifting up the suspension a little or something. My car is lowered on stock bolts, nothing crazy, but a little lower than stock.
The ultimate solution is one of their 3 ton alum jacks (which I don't have), but you're going to be paying close to double what the steel version is. If I could only have one I would get something like this, or even just the regular steel low profile jack.
I actually find having multiple jacks very useful on the C5. My current technique I dont have to drive up onto wood blocks or anything, I lift the car slightly at the front 2 side lifting points with the 2 alum jacks, then I can slide the big steel one in from the front on the big crossmember and lift it up to desired height. For the rear, the steel jack fits in just fine under the rear crossmember from directly behind.
The alum ones are nice in that they are light and I used to take them with me to track events, perfect for that. Problem with them is they do not lift very high, for big jobs where you need more ground clearance (or you just want the car higher up to give you more space to roll around under).
The 3 ton steel jack is great all around, its just heavier. Not a big deal for around the garage use, but if you were regularly picking it up and taking it places, that would get old. It actually has a lower minimum height than the 1.5 alum jacks and can fit in some spots that I can't get the alum ones without first lifting up the suspension a little or something. My car is lowered on stock bolts, nothing crazy, but a little lower than stock.
The ultimate solution is one of their 3 ton alum jacks (which I don't have), but you're going to be paying close to double what the steel version is. If I could only have one I would get something like this, or even just the regular steel low profile jack.
I actually find having multiple jacks very useful on the C5. My current technique I dont have to drive up onto wood blocks or anything, I lift the car slightly at the front 2 side lifting points with the 2 alum jacks, then I can slide the big steel one in from the front on the big crossmember and lift it up to desired height. For the rear, the steel jack fits in just fine under the rear crossmember from directly behind.
#3
Race Director
i can answer this one......i have the C5 cross beam adapters and regular 20" floor jack.....do i use it NO......i have the elite engineering rocker rails installed and i use the 1.5 ton HF low profile aluminum jack with like a 15" max height and small jack stands to get the car up. i have replaced all four shocks, both sway bars, changed the oil all with the little jack, my preference is not to use a creeper just the garage floor on a mat. this is not high enough if you use a creeper
i do have the big stuff but its not my go to jack
so if i didnt have any jacks at all.....and i had storage for a bigger jack....and I didnt mind spending more $$$ i guess i would go with a 20" high low profile aluminum or steel jack that would cover all situations.
i do have the big stuff but its not my go to jack
so if i didnt have any jacks at all.....and i had storage for a bigger jack....and I didnt mind spending more $$$ i guess i would go with a 20" high low profile aluminum or steel jack that would cover all situations.
Last edited by bobs77vet; 07-03-2018 at 12:13 PM.
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ArmchairArchitect (07-03-2018)
#4
Drifting
I have their Pittsburgh 3 ton jack. It does a good job for C5 stuff and for any other stuff I have around the garage. It can't fit directly under the front of my C5 because it's lowered slightly so what I do is raise the rear up directly in the middle using a jig, get it on stands, then raise each side up front and get them on stands. You could probably use some ramps or homemade ramps out of wood to help raising the front. I made some jacking pucks that slip into the mounting surface of the jack when you remove the jack pad head which helps with the front. All said I can get the car in the air on stands in roughly ten minutes.
It's a good budget level slim jack and honestly HF's jacks are some of the better things they sell there.
It's a good budget level slim jack and honestly HF's jacks are some of the better things they sell there.
#5
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I have two of the Pittsburgh Racing 2.5 Ton Aluminum rapid pump floor jacks (Item 62309) that I got from Harbor Freight. Both work great and you can find them on sale for a decent price.
#8
Racer
I use a steel low pro 3 ton for the rear, and the 2 ton aluminum low pro for the front. front must be driven up onto some 3/4" or 1" plywood to clear the air dam with the jack most of the time.
They don't lift the car super high, but I made a set of custom long steel ramps out of expanded metal reinforced with 1/2 steel stock to get the front end in the air. The jack is just a helper tool now. The ramps allow Corvette airdams to clear (just barely) and they are easy to store (as they come apart, they are only bolted together)
Just an idea if you are going to spend any amount of time under the car, ramps are much safer than jack stands and jacks.
#9
Melting Slicks
I bought one of their 1.5 Alum racing jacks with rapid pump - the $79.99 jpb. Gets under a lowered car, no issues, EXCEPT very difficult to do a slow gentle lowering as rapid up=rapid down., My old HD 3 ton jack is much more controllable, but I have to drive the car up onto pieces of 2" by to get it under. But, I have one of those jack adapters for it that fit in place of the usual jack cradle, and locks into the C5 frame. When it's in place, nothing is going anywhere.
#10
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Dark Sarcasm (07-05-2018)
#12
Burning Brakes
Whatever HF floor jack you buy make sure to check the fluid level and bleed the air out of the system before you use it.
Last edited by DBS99MagRedCoupe; 07-05-2018 at 09:38 PM.