A&A Vortech C5 Supercharger Build Thread by Toys4Life C5
#161
Safety Car
This is the best compromise I can come to with mine... note it's not connected at the TB side. If I force the tube into the TB coupler, it will come off the IC outlet. If I pull the alum pipe out of the long silicone piece, the alum pipe will 'bulge' up significantly, surely coming in contact with hood.
Best solution I think in my case I think might be a 4" long coupler at the TB. I found some 4" and 4.7" couplers on ebay.
I agree the angle of alum piece seems a little off in my case, a little less sharp of angle would work better in my case I believe., it points too far "down".
Best solution I think in my case I think might be a 4" long coupler at the TB. I found some 4" and 4.7" couplers on ebay.
I agree the angle of alum piece seems a little off in my case, a little less sharp of angle would work better in my case I believe., it points too far "down".
#162
Drifting
I sent Josh a quick email... I'll see what he says, but I already have a longer coupler in my Amazon cart, just waiting to hear back first. I could force mine to fit together, but it will bulge up and probably rub on the hood... probably a workable solution, but I want to get it right now. It looks like maybe the standard pipe with the MAF in place might fit a little better. You have an extra couple couplers in there which will give you more 'wiggle room' on things.
As far as MAF vs SD.... I think at lower power levels MAF is feasible but I would do what your tuner recommends, it's going to be what he does most often and is most comfortable with and you'll probably get the best tune that way.
My car even with just a mild cam, I can tell it's way easier to tune things going speed density, just converting it over and not tweaking anything really the light load was much smoother. The downside to speed density is it's much more sensitive to hardware changes on the engine-- you change headers, intercooler piping setup, intake setup etc, you're definitely going to want to do a quick re-tune. MAF is much more forgiving (but after those mods a re-tune would still be ideal). Hope that helps.
As far as MAF vs SD.... I think at lower power levels MAF is feasible but I would do what your tuner recommends, it's going to be what he does most often and is most comfortable with and you'll probably get the best tune that way.
My car even with just a mild cam, I can tell it's way easier to tune things going speed density, just converting it over and not tweaking anything really the light load was much smoother. The downside to speed density is it's much more sensitive to hardware changes on the engine-- you change headers, intercooler piping setup, intake setup etc, you're definitely going to want to do a quick re-tune. MAF is much more forgiving (but after those mods a re-tune would still be ideal). Hope that helps.
#163
Drifting
Josh hooked me up with a tech and he described his process/technique to get it to fit.
-Connect the long silicone piece to the intercooler outlet, and angle that thing back (towards radiator/condenser) as much as possible until it's almost touching....then clamp it down.
-Install intake/ air bridge / dongle if you haven't already, to include the crankcase breather hose in the air filter
-Install the top shroud now and get everything aligned, push the shroud back towards radiator etc. The shroud may contact the long silicone hose a bit, that's ok. (he said they are revising the instructions to move this step up... in the current instructions this step is later)
- Install TB coupler and now install the big alum piece in, slowly working it down to make sure the front end of low enough and you still have it seated in the TB coupler. Maybe go ahead and clamp it down at TB side and then just muscle the front end into place, then clamp it.
I think the key is angling the big silicone coupler as far back as possible and get it clamped and secured so you can still muscle it around without it coming off.
I also recommend spraying the pipes/inside of couplers with silicone spray or similar prior to install. They fit VERY snug which is a good thing once it's all dried and assembled, but assembling is a bit of a bear sometimes. Almost all of the thick 4/5 ply couplers are like this.
I think I'm still going to go ahead and order the longer TB coupler reducer just in case. Amazon prime and I can have it here by Friday and on hand just in case over the weekend.
-Connect the long silicone piece to the intercooler outlet, and angle that thing back (towards radiator/condenser) as much as possible until it's almost touching....then clamp it down.
-Install intake/ air bridge / dongle if you haven't already, to include the crankcase breather hose in the air filter
-Install the top shroud now and get everything aligned, push the shroud back towards radiator etc. The shroud may contact the long silicone hose a bit, that's ok. (he said they are revising the instructions to move this step up... in the current instructions this step is later)
- Install TB coupler and now install the big alum piece in, slowly working it down to make sure the front end of low enough and you still have it seated in the TB coupler. Maybe go ahead and clamp it down at TB side and then just muscle the front end into place, then clamp it.
I think the key is angling the big silicone coupler as far back as possible and get it clamped and secured so you can still muscle it around without it coming off.
I also recommend spraying the pipes/inside of couplers with silicone spray or similar prior to install. They fit VERY snug which is a good thing once it's all dried and assembled, but assembling is a bit of a bear sometimes. Almost all of the thick 4/5 ply couplers are like this.
I think I'm still going to go ahead and order the longer TB coupler reducer just in case. Amazon prime and I can have it here by Friday and on hand just in case over the weekend.
Last edited by aaronc7; 01-09-2019 at 12:48 PM.
#164
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '21
Josh hooked me up with a tech and he described his process/technique to get it to fit.
-Connect the long silicone piece to the intercooler outlet, and angle that thing back (towards radiator/condenser) as much as possible until it's almost touching....then clamp it down.
-Install intake/ air bridge / dongle if you haven't already, to include the crankcase breather hose in the air filter
-Install the top shroud now and get everything aligned, push the shroud back towards radiator etc. The shroud may contact the long silicone hose a bit, that's ok. (he said they are revising the instructions to move this step up... in the current instructions this step is later)
- Install TB coupler and now install the big alum piece in, slowly working it down to make sure the front end of low enough and you still have it seated in the TB coupler. Maybe go ahead and clamp it down at TB side and then just muscle the front end into place, then clamp it.
I think the key is angling the big silicone coupler as far back as possible and get it clamped and secured so you can still muscle it around without it coming off.
I think I'm still going to go ahead and order the longer TB coupler reducer just in case. Amazon prime and I can have it here by Friday and on hand just in case over the weekend.
-Connect the long silicone piece to the intercooler outlet, and angle that thing back (towards radiator/condenser) as much as possible until it's almost touching....then clamp it down.
-Install intake/ air bridge / dongle if you haven't already, to include the crankcase breather hose in the air filter
-Install the top shroud now and get everything aligned, push the shroud back towards radiator etc. The shroud may contact the long silicone hose a bit, that's ok. (he said they are revising the instructions to move this step up... in the current instructions this step is later)
- Install TB coupler and now install the big alum piece in, slowly working it down to make sure the front end of low enough and you still have it seated in the TB coupler. Maybe go ahead and clamp it down at TB side and then just muscle the front end into place, then clamp it.
I think the key is angling the big silicone coupler as far back as possible and get it clamped and secured so you can still muscle it around without it coming off.
I think I'm still going to go ahead and order the longer TB coupler reducer just in case. Amazon prime and I can have it here by Friday and on hand just in case over the weekend.
#165
Drifting
Ebay has the most selection. I searched ' 3.5" 4" coupler reducer long ' and there were a few for ~$30. The black one I saw on there had a very sharp diameter transition...not sure if its actual photo of item, but I didn't like that. There is a blue one that looks perfect, but I don't want blue.
I ended up getting this one "HPS brand on amazon. It's a little pricer, but prime shipping. I've used HPS clamps before (because prime shipping and needed it quick)...they were very nice, just a little pricey. This clamp says it's 4" long and was $40 when I got it...I think I got the last one or something because now it's showing $60+. I'd guess it will come back down.
edit: here's the ebay ones, I guess ebay is unblocked at work now, woohoo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-to-3-5-Si...frcectupt=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-to-4-In...frcectupt=true
They're sold by the same vendor, I actually sent them a message about the black one.... I'll let you know what they say about the transition.
I ended up getting this one "HPS brand on amazon. It's a little pricer, but prime shipping. I've used HPS clamps before (because prime shipping and needed it quick)...they were very nice, just a little pricey. This clamp says it's 4" long and was $40 when I got it...I think I got the last one or something because now it's showing $60+. I'd guess it will come back down.
edit: here's the ebay ones, I guess ebay is unblocked at work now, woohoo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-to-3-5-Si...frcectupt=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-to-4-In...frcectupt=true
They're sold by the same vendor, I actually sent them a message about the black one.... I'll let you know what they say about the transition.
Last edited by aaronc7; 01-09-2019 at 01:09 PM.
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Toys4Life C5 (01-10-2019)
#166
I installed my A&A kit about 5-7 years ago, without using a laser, and it works fine. In fact, it works so fine that I rarely drive it anymore. If I'm in traffic, and try to give it more than about 1/4 throttle, it goes sideways fast. Thinking about doing a Mustang meet cars and coffee because I've got a potential crowd plow.
#167
Safety Car
I sent Josh a quick email... I'll see what he says, but I already have a longer coupler in my Amazon cart, just waiting to hear back first. I could force mine to fit together, but it will bulge up and probably rub on the hood... probably a workable solution, but I want to get it right now. It looks like maybe the standard pipe with the MAF in place might fit a little better. You have an extra couple couplers in there which will give you more 'wiggle room' on things.
As far as MAF vs SD.... I think at lower power levels MAF is feasible but I would do what your tuner recommends, it's going to be what he does most often and is most comfortable with and you'll probably get the best tune that way.
My car even with just a mild cam, I can tell it's way easier to tune things going speed density, just converting it over and not tweaking anything really the light load was much smoother. The downside to speed density is it's much more sensitive to hardware changes on the engine-- you change headers, intercooler piping setup, intake setup etc, you're definitely going to want to do a quick re-tune. MAF is much more forgiving (but after those mods a re-tune would still be ideal). Hope that helps.
As far as MAF vs SD.... I think at lower power levels MAF is feasible but I would do what your tuner recommends, it's going to be what he does most often and is most comfortable with and you'll probably get the best tune that way.
My car even with just a mild cam, I can tell it's way easier to tune things going speed density, just converting it over and not tweaking anything really the light load was much smoother. The downside to speed density is it's much more sensitive to hardware changes on the engine-- you change headers, intercooler piping setup, intake setup etc, you're definitely going to want to do a quick re-tune. MAF is much more forgiving (but after those mods a re-tune would still be ideal). Hope that helps.
#168
Drifting
I fumbled around with mine some more using the technique I posted and still not really happy with the end result. It's do-able I think but a bit tight/stretched. Another thing to consider is if you don't really tug the pipe towards the engine/throttle body, it's going to rub really good against the top shroud (so either way you're going to have to align that front coupler as far back as possible). That top shroud was a lot tighter fit than I was expecting, too. Definitely test fit that before you clamp down the intake and the charge pipe going to TB.
My pipe is at a shop right now getting a few bungs welded on, but I should have a quick turnaround and the 4" longer TB coupler gets here tomorrow.
My pipe is at a shop right now getting a few bungs welded on, but I should have a quick turnaround and the 4" longer TB coupler gets here tomorrow.
#169
Drifting
Edit:
HPS HTSR-350-400-L4-BLK
Is the coupler I got and it fits fine. The 4" side at the throttle body is a little loose but once you start to tighten the clamp down it's just fine.
Being 4" long it makes fitment and adjustment a lot easier.
HPS HTSR-350-400-L4-BLK
Is the coupler I got and it fits fine. The 4" side at the throttle body is a little loose but once you start to tighten the clamp down it's just fine.
Being 4" long it makes fitment and adjustment a lot easier.
Last edited by aaronc7; 01-13-2019 at 03:00 AM.
#170
Race Director
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#171
Drifting
Love that place, I've bought tons of alum tubing and couplers from them from previous turbo builds.
Sadly all of their couplers are 3" in length. At least they have a nice chart with all of the info on it.
Sadly all of their couplers are 3" in length. At least they have a nice chart with all of the info on it.
#172
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tried ebay?... I had to buy a longer coupler for my setup but I can't remember where I bought it from lol
#173
Safety Car
I searched high and low man. There were several 4.0-4.7" inch options in the 3.5->4.0 couplers but less for whatever reason in 3.75->3.50.
A few of the ebay ads don't list a length but based on the pic, looks like it might be ~4" long.... but it could also just be a generic photo. I emailed a few other vendors, we'll see if they actually reply.
Otherwise I think I'm going to go my ghettoriffic route and stick half of the original coupler inside this new one. It should actually be a tight fit, I just hope it won't create too much of a blunt 'wall' for the incoming air. Will probably work just fine.
A few of the ebay ads don't list a length but based on the pic, looks like it might be ~4" long.... but it could also just be a generic photo. I emailed a few other vendors, we'll see if they actually reply.
Otherwise I think I'm going to go my ghettoriffic route and stick half of the original coupler inside this new one. It should actually be a tight fit, I just hope it won't create too much of a blunt 'wall' for the incoming air. Will probably work just fine.
#174
Drifting
Hey guys sorry for the back and forth on this but I think the coupler I ordered will work great.
Finally got to spend some time with it today and the TB side is loose but once you start to turn the clamp on it it's fine. I will run this. The extra inch in length makes fitment way easier
I went back and edited previous posts about it not fitting to avoid confusion
Part number: HPS HTSR-350-400-L4-BLK
Finally got to spend some time with it today and the TB side is loose but once you start to turn the clamp on it it's fine. I will run this. The extra inch in length makes fitment way easier
I went back and edited previous posts about it not fitting to avoid confusion
Part number: HPS HTSR-350-400-L4-BLK
Last edited by aaronc7; 01-13-2019 at 10:33 AM.
#175
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '21
Hey guys sorry for the back and forth on this but I think the coupler I ordered will work great.
Finally got to spend some time with it today and the TB side is loose but once you start to turn the clamp on it it's fine. I will run this. The extra inch in length makes fitment way easier
Part number
HPS HTSR-350-400-L4-BLK
Finally got to spend some time with it today and the TB side is loose but once you start to turn the clamp on it it's fine. I will run this. The extra inch in length makes fitment way easier
Part number
HPS HTSR-350-400-L4-BLK
#176
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meth I would assume
#177
Drifting
That's correct-- 3/8 NPT for IAT and 1/8 NPT for the meth nozzles; I have one more on the passenger side.
They sell a harness to break out MAF and IAT, but makes the wires so much longer than they need to be, so I may just go back and cut/colder the 2 wires out of the 5 wire MAF plug.
They sell a harness to break out MAF and IAT, but makes the wires so much longer than they need to be, so I may just go back and cut/colder the 2 wires out of the 5 wire MAF plug.
#178
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that's what I do, it looks so much cleaner and you lessen your chances of failure by wiring it directly... I have ran into problems with other parts on the car where the wires were not crimped properly in the connectors and caused issues
#179
Safety Car
that looks great. I appreciate the fact that if I run into the same issue I now know what to buy. Question for you though. Can you please tell me if the air filter is leaning on the condenser or does it hang without touching? The reason I ask is because I have a tranny cooler mounted in that exact spot. My tranny temps run very cool. So cool that I was not very concerned with having the air filter block a portion of the tranny cooler but again I now question if I can even fit the air filter, tranny cooler, and then condenser in that spot.
Last edited by tabbruzz; 01-13-2019 at 10:32 AM.
#180
Drifting
that looks great. I appreciate the fact that if I run into the same issue I now know what to buy. Question for you though. Can you please tell me if the air filter is leaning on the condenser or does it hang without touching? The reason I ask is because I have a tranny cooler mounted in that exact spot. My tranny temps run very cool. So cool that I was not very concerned with having the air filter block a portion of the tranny cooler but again I now question if I can even fit the air filter, tranny cooler, and then condenser in that spot.