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Blackmachdown's 2001 Z06 Build log, from stock to Twin Turbo to N/A

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Blackmachdown's 2001 Z06 Build log, from stock to Twin Turbo to N/A

Old 10-09-2018, 11:45 AM
  #21  
workmanw
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Great thread Ralph! Amazing numbers. I wonder if you would have been happier with the stock UPP turbos, or BB turbos in the stock size. They may have made less power but also would have had much less lag, increasing the fun to drive factor on the street. I was originally going to go with the UPP set up myself, cause twin turbos are just sexy! Too bad about the wheel hitting the pipe and cracking the paint. I was still fantasizing about the UPP but my wheels are an inch taller in overall diameter than stock, which is causing me issues in the rear and I know it won't work up front if you hit with the stock 17's. Seeing this definitely makes me feel better about the do overs I have done when something didn't work or look the way I thought that it would, or another idea came along. Thanks for sharing, keep it going!

-PS: On your overheating issue, you might want to consider an electric water pump. I converted mine and instead of staying at 200+ and cooking even worse in traffic, it now stays at 181 and even cools down at idle. This solution is probably not ideal for road course or sustained high rev driving, but for street and 1/4 mile, (maybe even 1/2 mile) it's perfect. Car can be cooled down by idling in between runs, will sit in traffic all day long on the hottest days with the AC on, and it even frees up a few ponies as a bonus. I highly recommend if your usage matches.
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:04 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by workmanw View Post
Great thread Ralph! Amazing numbers. I wonder if you would have been happier with the stock UPP turbos, or BB turbos in the stock size. They may have made less power but also would have had much less lag, increasing the fun to drive factor on the street. I was originally going to go with the UPP set up myself, cause twin turbos are just sexy! Too bad about the wheel hitting the pipe and cracking the paint. I was still fantasizing about the UPP but my wheels are an inch taller in overall diameter than stock, which is causing me issues in the rear and I know it won't work up front if you hit with the stock 17's. Seeing this definitely makes me feel better about the do overs I have done when something didn't work or look the way I thought that it would, or another idea came along. Thanks for sharing, keep it going!

-PS: On your overheating issue, you might want to consider an electric water pump. I converted mine and instead of staying at 200+ and cooking even worse in traffic, it now stays at 181 and even cools down at idle. This solution is probably not ideal for road course or sustained high rev driving, but for street and 1/4 mile, (maybe even 1/2 mile) it's perfect. Car can be cooled down by idling in between runs, will sit in traffic all day long on the hottest days with the AC on, and it even frees up a few ponies as a bonus. I highly recommend if your usage matches.
Thanks for the compliments Wayne! Hindsight being 20/20 I would have most definitely been happier if I wouldn't have gone crazy chasing a number. My big mistake was thinking that all I needed to do was crank the boost controller until I see the numbers I want. Forums, Facebook Groups, Youtube and other social media sites made it seem like having a large horspower car is super easy to take care of, and I found out that for me it wasn't the truth. My mechanical ability, knowledge of motors and turbos made it so that I had to rely on other shops to work on my car. I should have realized that and kept the power at a place where I wasn't taxing everything as hard as I was.

Regardless of whether I kept the kit or not, I truly think now was the time to swap over back to N/A. I want to the car to be way more street friendly than she is and way more reliable. All my decisions going forward on this project are in the interest in reliability.

My overheating issues are two-fold, number 1 I am running an iron block which holds the heat in more than an aluminum block. #2 I am also running the factory radiator which is very inadequate on boosted motors to begin with. I have upgraded the radiator and have gone back to an aluminum block so I should go back to seeing low temps in the summer.

I got some more updates to come!
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:46 PM
  #23  
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Quick update today 10/9/18-

Car is on the lift now!


The shop has already removed the turbo kit


The motor is disconnected from everything and ready to come out


Previously when UPP had the car they had noticed some areas where the harness was cut and they did repair it correctly. So I had the new shop go in and start double checking the harnesses and look for any upcoming potential issues.

So far they found my clutch is worn out


Is that bad?


Rather than go out and have monster send me a new friction plate, I decided to go back to a more sensible clutch, I decided on going with their lt1-s twin disk. That is arriving on Thursday.

They also found that my motor mounts where melting



I went ahead and ordered some Hinson motor mounts and trans mount. I ended up going with the shorter motor mounts so that in the future if i want to run a ported MSD for more power I don't have to worry too much about cutting the cowl.

Lastly we looked at the differential because I was leaking fluid out the side. It looks like one axle is about a hair further out than the other, so we think something serious might be wrong. The shop hasn't pulled the diff cover yet to see whats going on. Im hoping its just a seal or an axle (i have a spare). If not then I will probably upgrade to a stage 2 diff from RPM

I am going to be running LS7 Fuel rail covers (I mean why wouldn't you) I used the Mighty Mouse Catch can install thread to figure out where to drill the covers since I am running a wetsump motor. I dropped them off at my buddies paint shop to have them sanded down smooth and painted to match the exterior of the car, I also did the same with the Haltech intake as well.


I will be heading to the shop on Thursday or Friday to drop off the remaining parts. From their it should be a short time before the car is ready...its just too bad the weather is starting to drop here in Colorado.

Last edited by blackmachdown; 10-09-2018 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:39 AM
  #24  
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What caused the motor mounts to melt? Was it proximity to the turbos? Something I ran into that you might want to consider while you're working with the rear end, C5 wheels are not centered in the rear wheel arch. Going with a taller tire causes rubbing of the front of the rear tire to the fender well when you hit a dip if the car is lowered. A C6 rear cradle will move the rear wheel back 1/2" centering the wheel. I'm not totally clear on all that you need for the swap, for 6 speeds I don't think that it's that much, you definitely need an adaptor to lengthen the transaxle for an automatic. I went a different route on mine (more on that when it's done ;-) ), but I will probably still do it when funds allow.
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by workmanw View Post
What caused the motor mounts to melt? Was it proximity to the turbos? Something I ran into that you might want to consider while you're working with the rear end, C5 wheels are not centered in the rear wheel arch. Going with a taller tire causes rubbing of the front of the rear tire to the fender well when you hit a dip if the car is lowered. A C6 rear cradle will move the rear wheel back 1/2" centering the wheel. I'm not totally clear on all that you need for the swap, for 6 speeds I don't think that it's that much, you definitely need an adaptor to lengthen the transaxle for an automatic. I went a different route on mine (more on that when it's done ;-) ), but I will probably still do it when funds allow.
my front and rear tires still have the same diameter as stock so I donít worry about that so much. I did have to when I was running your old wheels on the coupe and the 35 tire on 19. I had to raise the rear up to compensate.

As for the motor mounts I think it was from the manifolds getting hot. My turbos sit in the fenders so its kind of isolated from the engine bay.
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:33 PM
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Great post brother....
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:36 PM
  #27  
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Ok bare with me on this update Iím typing this out on my tablet

dropped off what I hope is the last round of parts to the shop

Old motor has been pulled out


I am going to try and sell it locally but at the same time I could save it for another project. Any ideas on what you guys think I could get for it?
runs with no issues (have video)
lq4 bored over .030
stock crank
texas speed torquer v2 cam
texas speed/wiseco forged rods and pistons (9.5:1 with the 317 heads)
317 heads with tsp.660 valve springs and retainers
Will come with an ls6 intake
everything has less than 3k miles




Here is the new motor ready to be installed


Issa a 5.3 but I keep her clean


you think these heads will give it away?



Car is on the lift with no cradle

Engine bay needs a good cleaning!

So here is what worries me:


There is a ton of oil all over that side of the car. We know we will have to replace a seal, but what worries me is the axle is out just a hair. Rpm said until you hear noise donít panic, but since Iím already at the point where the car is in the shop I have a huge case of ďwhile youíre in thereĒ itis, guess Iíll just replace the seal and see when it goes.

Now, I knew my car had mufflers on it, but what I didnít realize was they were put after the x crossover on my pipe before the back. Basically my catback is just over the axle straight pipes. Car is going to be too loud for me, so I was thinking of switching it up. I canít decide if I want to pony up for a new 3 inch catback or, do 3 inch cut outs before the cutback and then neck down to a 2.5 inch system. Was thinking basic ti exhaust or maybe a nice quiet magnaflow or borla system.



Last edited by blackmachdown; 10-12-2018 at 12:40 PM.
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