When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My turn.... ARH header install questions (parts and supplies)
I recently picked up a set of used ARH headers (1 3/4"), mid pipes, high flow cats and x pipe. I plan on installing these myself, with a little help from some friends. Plan is to use jack stands in my garage, taking my time (winter project). Headers are currently at a local shop getting ceramic coated. Over the next few weeks, I plan to get the car up on the stands and start the removal process of the factory manifolds and h pipe. Car already has a Corsa Extreme axle back. My questions aren't about the install itself (I've read nearly all the posts on installs over the past several years and have a good handle on what/how to attack it). My questions mainly focus on what else I should do while in the process.
First, because this is a used set, I wasn't sure if I need to get these bolts (circled in yellow)? The original owner thought it was all factory hardware that was used, and I'm not sure myself. (picture is from an older post from Patches, but I have the exact same set up)
Next, my car has 66k miles, and to my knowledge, has original plugs and wires. Should I replace them now, while I'm right there? Probably wouldn't hurt, so if I do, what is the recommended replacement plug and wires? Keeping in mind, the headers are getting ceramic coated, so would I need additional heat protection? I've seen others go with NGK Iridum plugs and Taylor Thunder Volt 50 wires or similar. Would my local AutoZone or O'Reilly's carry these or would I be better ordering on line? I plan on reusing the factory exhaust gasket however I will probably replace the gaskets where the x pipe connects to the axle back (I'll look at the ones there now, since the axle back was installed not long ago (maybe 3000 miles).
Additionally, my car is a '99. Will I need the newer style dipstick and tube? I thought I read the older style mounts to the manifold and the newer style mounts to the block? Is that true? If I do need the newer style, what would be the best option of ordering one? On line or local Chevy dealer?
I've read a few posts about harness extenders for the O2 sensors. Do I really need these? I tried to follow along with some replies in different threads, but got confused. As mentioned, my car is a '99 and this se up came off of a '00 so it does have the extra bungs (again, as pictured above).
What else? RTV gasket? Heat tape around the starter? Any other replacements or protections I should do? The car will be retuned after install. I have a Chuck COW tune now, and already spoke to Chuck and we'll fine tune it again after all is said and done. I'd like to have all parts and supplies on hand once I start so there's no delay's once I get going.
In addition to the ceramic coating I suggest using heat socks for the spark plug wires and velcro heat protection for the starter wires and the brake lines along with some reflective heat tape for electrical connectors. Summit Racing sells their own heat protection for the wires and lines which offers the best protection and at a great price. I use Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm spark plug wires which can withstand heat up to 600 degrees F and still added spark plug wire heat shields over each wire for additional heat protection of up to 1800 degrees F in case of contact with the header tubes due to of the thickness of my wires. I have Kooks headers so I did not need extenders for the O2 sensors or have to change the dipstick and tube. Kooks supplied all new hardware. I suggest contacting ARH for all new hardware.
I suggest changing the plugs and wires. If the wires are original they will most likely come part when you remove them and you will not be able to use them. Removing and replacing the old spark plugs is a breeze with exhaust manifolds out of the way
My advice is to buy starter heat shielding from Jegs/Summit. The insulation will be crispy within 5k miles. Next time you mess with starter wiring the insulation will crackle and leave loose wiring.
Also, wrap the fresh ceramic coated pipes with lengths of masking tape. You will scratch the hell out of them trying to install and you’ll wish you’d spent $6 on a roll of tape and gave a damn.
Wire wheel the factory hardened crusty funk off the manifold bolts before putting on fresh liquid funk. Better yet use ARP manifold studs (but those require 12 point sockets to fasten their fasteners, not everyone has that)..
In addition to the ceramic coating I suggest using heat socks for the spark plug wires and velcro heat protection for the starter wires and the brake lines along with some reflective heat tape for electrical connectors. Summit Racing sells their own heat protection for the wires and lines which offers the best protection and at a great price. I use Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm spark plug wires which can withstand heat up to 600 degrees F and still added spark plug wire heat shields over each wire for additional heat protection of up to 1800 degrees F in case of contact with the header tubes due to of the thickness of my wires. I have Kooks headers so I did not need extenders for the O2 sensors or have to change the dipstick and tube. Kooks supplied all new hardware. I suggest contacting ARH for all new hardware.
Thanks Mike. I actually tried to email ARH before I picked up the headers, and never heard back. I have since forgot (until now) to follow up. This time, I'll just call.
Your post was one I was reading, and referenced the Thunder Volt wires from. I suppose it's easier to take the extra precautions now, while everything is "exposed" rather than waiting for something to happen, then fixing it.
Anyway, I was able to find out what was included with the new set, and what I should need. None of which they will sell me direct. I can call or go to a local dealer of theirs and get it there. Four bolts and nuts (that I can get at any hardware store) and a pair of harness extensions for the rear O2 sensors. I've read the bungs can be plugged and the sensors tuned off. I've also read the extensions are needed. I also asked about the dip stick and tube specific to the early C5's, and he said they didn't sell or include that. *edit to add* spoke to the previous owner that I bought from, and he didn't use or need the harness extensions.
So, I may or may not be able to have everything on hand when I'm ready to start. Sounds like a few things will be a wait and see, after parts start getting installed. Which is fine, because the car won't be out again until late April.
Now, off to Summit Racing, JEGS and other sites to see about wrap, shields, wires....
NGK plugs
MSD wires
Anti-seize compound and dielectric grease
You can buy stainless hardware at Lowe's or Ace Hardware .... since ARH won't sell you a set of hardware
I recently picked up a set of used ARH headers (1 3/4"), mid pipes, high flow cats and x pipe. I plan on installing these myself, with a little help from some friends. Plan is to use jack stands in my garage, taking my time (winter project). Headers are currently at a local shop getting ceramic coated. Over the next few weeks, I plan to get the car up on the stands and start the removal process of the factory manifolds and h pipe. Car already has a Corsa Extreme axle back. My questions aren't about the install itself (I've read nearly all the posts on installs over the past several years and have a good handle on what/how to attack it). My questions mainly focus on what else I should do while in the process.
First, because this is a used set, I wasn't sure if I need to get these bolts (circled in yellow)? The original owner thought it was all factory hardware that was used, and I'm not sure myself. (picture is from an older post from Patches, but I have the exact same set up)
Next, my car has 66k miles, and to my knowledge, has original plugs and wires. Should I replace them now, while I'm right there? Probably wouldn't hurt, so if I do, what is the recommended replacement plug and wires? Keeping in mind, the headers are getting ceramic coated, so would I need additional heat protection? I've seen others go with NGK Iridum plugs and Taylor Thunder Volt 50 wires or similar. Would my local AutoZone or O'Reilly's carry these or would I be better ordering on line? I plan on reusing the factory exhaust gasket however I will probably replace the gaskets where the x pipe connects to the axle back (I'll look at the ones there now, since the axle back was installed not long ago (maybe 3000 miles).
Additionally, my car is a '99. Will I need the newer style dipstick and tube? I thought I read the older style mounts to the manifold and the newer style mounts to the block? Is that true? If I do need the newer style, what would be the best option of ordering one? On line or local Chevy dealer?
I've read a few posts about harness extenders for the O2 sensors. Do I really need these? I tried to follow along with some replies in different threads, but got confused. As mentioned, my car is a '99 and this se up came off of a '00 so it does have the extra bungs (again, as pictured above).
What else? RTV gasket? Heat tape around the starter? Any other replacements or protections I should do? The car will be retuned after install. I have a Chuck COW tune now, and already spoke to Chuck and we'll fine tune it again after all is said and done. I'd like to have all parts and supplies on hand once I start so there's no delay's once I get going.
Thank you! A great tune gets even better with FREE RE-TUNE updates when you add headers.
So words of wisdom here....
Make sure you use the original GM manifold gaskets and bolts and always use a small amount of permatex orange high temp
silicone on both sides of the gaskets. That will guarantee they never leak or blow out.
On C5s there is sometimes a benefit to use the longer REAR sensors in the front holes connected where the FRONT harnesses connect
with a gender changer. I always hate saying this online because it is most often mis-interpreted and causes big headaches.
What we want is to take the ORIGINAL REAR O2 SENSORS (longer cables and higher wattage heater inside) and install them in the FRONT
sensor holes on the headers. You will need a short conversion adapter to connect the longer sensors to the appropriate original FRONT sensor
harness. YES, WE ARE USING THE ORIGINAL REAR SENSORS IN THE FRONT HOLES CONNECTED TO THE ORIGINAL PLUGS FOR THE
FRONT SENSORS WITH A CONVERSION CONNECTOR.
Other advice.... DO NOT coat headers because it does virtually nothing for you but cost you money and the coatings usually don't last or survive your
install.... HEADER WRAP is a very bad idea and starter heat shields are typically unnecessary, but both of these items can make more trouble than they
are worth. DO NOT USE MSD plug wires. They have a high failure rate. Stock plugs and wires are BEST for most header installations.
Reputable brands such as American Racing Headers are the BEST and will not cause problems with plug wire interference.
Bill give me a call later and I will give you the part numbers for the heat shielding I used.
use anti-seize compound and dielectric grease.
Masking tape is great for protecting the ceramic coating. I waxed my fenders, used plastic wrap over them then taped the fender covers to my fenders with blue painters tape and plenty of blankets over the windshield cowl and intake manifold. Use of blue painters tape over any exposed edges is a good idea.
Other advice.... DO NOT coat headers because it does virtually nothing for you but cost you money and the coatings usually don't last or survive your
install....
OP, Don't listen to this piece of advice at all. Coating your headers is a HUGE deal. It keeps so much heat in your pipes that it's worth it. Your engine bay will not hold nearly as much residual heat, and you'll find that you'll be able to actually work on your engine pretty quick after shutting it off. I can run my car hard and then literally get in there and pull spark plugs without gloves within 10-15 minutes of turning the car off. Yet all of the cast parts close to the engine are hot for nearly an hour (looking at you alternator bracket). The heat soak I was getting during autocross was getting to be obnoxious. My wheels were getting way more heat than they needed, and I couldn't do any suspension adjustments without letting the whole car cool down a bit. After my header install with the ceramic coating, all of that went away.
So good call on getting them coated. I've had multiple sets and it has helped keep them in good shape for years.
I am looking to run approx. the same setup with my Extremes. I am worried it will be way too loud. Would be curious what it sounds like when done.
I worried about the same thing. I figure if it's THAT bad, I can sell the extremes and/or trade for something a little less (like the sports or the Ti set up). We'll see in April/May when the car comes back out of hibernation.
Mike, pleasure talking with you yesterday.... all 8 times
For those keeping track, headers are at the shop already getting ceramic coated. I figured it was cheap "insurance" regarding heat. If it helps or not, it's much easier to have it done NOW, before everything gets installed. In addition to that, I ordered the following:
1. Taylor Thunder Volt wires (Summit)
2. boot protectors (Summit)
3. Starter blanket (Summit)
4. a roll of heat tape (1.375" x 15')
5. some heat reflector (with hook and loop fastener) 1/2" - 7/8" x 40" (Summit)
6. NGK Iridium spark plugs (Amazon)
Almost everything from Summit Racing based on suggestions (price and quality). The NGK plugs were nearly $50 LESS on Amazon, so that was a no brainer!
I'm also in the process of pricing out an '01-'04 dipstick and tube. From reading, the older C5's had a mounting bracket on the tube that went to the exhaust manifold, and the '01-'04 mounted to the block. With the headers, there is no location for the old style to bolt to (unless I want to add/weld a bolt, which I do not). Last will be some gaskets (end of the X pipe to the axle back) and *maybe* 4 bolts and nuts (for the flange at the collector and the mid pipe, as noted above in my picture). That *should* about cover everything..... I hope!
Header coatings don't work and don't last..... But they COST really WELL.
Originally Posted by Acid666
OP, Don't listen to this piece of advice at all. Coating your headers is a HUGE deal. It keeps so much heat in your pipes that it's worth it. Your engine bay will not hold nearly as much residual heat, and you'll find that you'll be able to actually work on your engine pretty quick after shutting it off. I can run my car hard and then literally get in there and pull spark plugs without gloves within 10-15 minutes of turning the car off. Yet all of the cast parts close to the engine are hot for nearly an hour (looking at you alternator bracket). The heat soak I was getting during autocross was getting to be obnoxious. My wheels were getting way more heat than they needed, and I couldn't do any suspension adjustments without letting the whole car cool down a bit. After my header install with the ceramic coating, all of that went away.
So good call on getting them coated. I've had multiple sets and it has helped keep them in good shape for years.
Header coatings don't work and don't last..... But they COST really WELL.
Too much heat stays in the pipe and either the header or the coating or BOTH do not last.
NO performance gain....no noticeable reduction in temperature when driving.... Idling in your driveway for an hour,
they might help..... Driving... NO CHANGE.
Buy AMERICAN RACING HEADERS.... or don't get headers.
Coatings will not help cheap headers..... or good ones either.
Header coatings don't work and don't last..... But they COST really WELL.
Too much heat stays in the pipe and either the header or the coating or BOTH do not last.
NO performance gain....no noticeable reduction in temperature when driving.... Idling in your driveway for an hour,
they might help..... Driving... NO CHANGE.
Buy AMERICAN RACING HEADERS.... or don't get headers.
Coatings will not help cheap headers..... or good ones either.
Chuck CoW
*Show us on the headers where he touched you*
Lol. Sorry you had a bad experience with header coating. But physics doesn't care about your opinion.
Too much heat stays in the pipe and either the header or the coating or BOTH do not last.
LOLOL this one's rich. It's SUPPOSED to keep heat inside the pipes where the coating is designed to handle it. And with them being able to withstand temps of up to 2,200° they'll resist thermal cycling and last a lot longer. Keeping that heat in actually helps decrease backpressure, and is better for your catalytic convertor and makes it more effective.
There's a reason people coat turbo parts that get ultra hot. Same for headers. You can say that it's not effective, but I've yet to find something that's 100% regretted ceramic coating in a performance vehicle.
I've already decided to get the headers ceramic coated (they're at the shop now), so the argument related to ME doing them is moot.
All the other parts are arriving. Ordered the wires (Taylor Thunder Volt), starter heat blanket, some reflective heat tape (Velcro and regular) and some boot protectors all from Summit. All delivered Saturday!
I also ordered new spark plugs (NGK iridium 7397) but, I ordered these through Amazon since they were $50 LESS!!!! For the same plugs ($37 on Amazon vs $88 at Summit)!!
Newer style dip stick and tube will be ordered next week (from a local dealer). Final cost is about the same once shipping and taxes are figured in so I'm OK going through a dealership.
As an added bonus, I found a new set of 100% leather sport seat skins. I didn't need new ones since there are no issues with my original set, but I couldn't pass them up for the price. They're black with silver stitching and some minor silver accents (should tie in nicely with the subtle accents I have now on and in the car). I'll post pics of everything once it's all here and ready to go...
01-03-2019, 11:41 AM
My turn.... ARH header install questions (parts and supplies)
use anti-seize compound and dielectric grease.
