Johnc5z

Hey guys, I’ve got a stock 2002 z06 with 63k miles and I’m looking to upgrade some things. I just got a Monster stage 2 single disc, Texas speed headers and x pipe, and a vr-b2 intake, all of which are sitting around waiting to be installed. I have a friend who works at cam motion camshafts who wants to make me a custom 228/232 on a 113+4 with a .612/.603 lift. He said he would get me .660 dual springs with steel retainers, the trunnion upgrade with the CHE bushings, hardened 5/16ths pushrods, and I was hoping to get some ls7 lifters and retainers. Is there anything I’m missing for this build? Also, what is the best place to go for the lifters? I also wanted to know, with the monster clutch would I need an upgraded master/slave cylinder? I know these topics have been covered before but I haven’t seen any threads that really answer all of my questions. Sorry for the long post, I appreciate any help or guidance you guys can give me.

Car Rookie

Yes, slave for sure. The master can be done anytime. I would replace torque tube couplers and bearings while you have it out. Also, think about doing the upper and lower ball joints, bushings and rear diff mount. Do as much as possible, you really only want to take it apart once. And of course, replace all fluids. I just did all this in my car.

Toys4Life C5

I just put in a monster lt1s recently. My couplers looked like new so I left them. Turns out the earlier torque tubes have smaller couplers and the later ones are bigger and as a result - hold up much better. Good times. Get the remote clutch bleeder for sure.

493lszosix

If your going to the trouble to pull the heads and replace the lifters then go with something good like a Johnson 2110, the ls7 are no better than your stock ones, c5r timing chain, new aftermarket balancer if you haven’t already replaced it, thinner head gasket will help hp/tq but then you might be getting into flycutting the pistons and not looking to go to that extent, good luck with the build!

neutron82

might as well replace the oil pump since it will be off anyway and I would go for a thicker pushrod if possible, manton makes some really nice 11/32 diameter .120 wall thickness pushrods

Johnc5z

You don’t have to take the torque tube away to get to the master? And will the stock slave be okay?

Johnc5z

I was thinking an Upgraded oil pump might be necessary, I only have around 25-35psi at a warm idle. How do I know what length pushrods will be best for my setup? I’d like to do everything at once and be able to drive it later that week but I understand there are things to consider when getting deep in the heart of the car like this.

Johnc5z

Did you have to upgrade your slave cylinder?

~Josh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnc5z

Did you have to upgrade your slave cylinder?

Your slave cylinder is butted up against your clutch internally. You always change the slave, typically with a new GM unit and add the remote bleeder. I used the one from Tick.

Also your torque tube has bearings and rubber couplers within, at the very least change the front bearing, but if anyone has taken it apart you typically refresh the whole thing.

I changed clutch, slave/master (factory GM both), fully rebuilt torque tube, new cv joints, new hubs, new ball joints, rebuilt transmission, new sway bar bushings, tunnel plate with heat shield, and the mentioned remote slave bleeder.

Johnc5z

Alright so I’m getting the slave cylinder and bleeder kit from tick, do I need the shim kit?

~Josh

You won’t need the shim kit.

Time for a C-5

I have a Level 2 single disk Monster with a mild H/C build. It's not much heavier than stock and only a little grabier. Mine works fine with the stock master but for sure do the slave, remote bleeder and torque tube bushings. Consider a Hinson trans mount while the rear is apart. Personally I would skip the lifters until you're ready to do the heads. A 4.10 gear will also up the fun factor on a N/A build.