klp

I've replaced the front running/turn signal lamp 3 times in less than 3 months. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this to happen?

GranBichus

Hmmm.... it might be that the alternator regulator is a bit high, but you can look into buying high intensity yellow LEDs for the side markers. Those won't burn as easily and they will last a lifetime.

klp

Thanks for the feedback. I've never heard of high intensity yellow LEDs. Do you have any idea where I might get them?

GranBichus

Autozone is where I've seen them. They also make them with high intensity red LEDs for brake lights. I've heard mixed opinions for pattern on the red ones though.

The bulb is really a pack of 8 bright yellow LEDs. Since I've done the headlight conversion I might do something like this to try it out as well.

0DinoZ

Have you noticed any condensation in the light housing at all? Many times the seals will leak, and the moisture will get into the housing and short out the sockets.

Denney

I would expect that if the alternator output was high (voltage wise) one would expect to see not only the marker lights go out, but others would have shortened lives, as well. I would lean toward the moisture possibility (I have seen some badly sealed lamp housings literally fill with water before), but that should be obvious when you examine the socket upon replacement. I would probably lean more toward bad bulb manufacturer then anything else (assuming there isn't a moisture problem)...

Denney

I would more likely lean toward a manufacturer issue with the bulbs you are buying. Maybe try another brand? (unless you do find moisture remnants in the housing)...

Stangkiller

As told to me by a tech at a GM dealership, he said that he's seen a lot burning out, and took a look at my socket for the bulb, which was burnt looking, pryed the wires in closer, and i haven't had a problem since!

LoneStarFRC

The bulbs are too close to the plastic housing and the heat melts it directly over the bulb. Water gets in and pops the bulbs. All this speculation about alternators, over voltages etc are wrong. Common problem. HTH

0vetteshop

ALLEGRO

Start with the cheaper remedies and work upward toward the big $$$'s until you find happiness!

0vetteshop

When you remove the bulb put your finger inside the bulb whole and feel the inside of the lamp above were the bulb would be.If the surface is not smooth the bulb heat has burnt a crack inside the lamp allowing water to drip on the bulb.I have replaced a gazillion lamps for this concern

klp

Thanks for all of the feedback. Last time I replaced it, the bulb was actually broken as if it had burst. Water dripping on a hot bulb makes good sense to me. I will check the housing to see if there are signs of leaks. I'm guessing that LEDs do not burn near as hot as the lamps, so I'll try those too.

Thanks again!!

LoneStarFRC

Either way you still need to repair/replace the housing(s) or you will still be getting water in. When you replace the housing, I would recommend taking the extra step of running a small thin bead of clear silicone around the outside edge where the two halves are joined.

MyBlueC5

Are these bulbs like the regular (eg. 1157, etc) style bulbs? The reason I ask is if you ever buy bulbs like that and they have a brass end, they're junk. The good ones are from companies like Sylvania and have a silver bottom.

I'm not sure what style bulbs you're using but we used to have a problem in the bodyshop every time we used the cheaper bulbs... now we only use the silver tipped bottoms. (remember, I'm talking about the older style bulbs)

HTH's,

Mark

Zpreston

I agree so What's the solution?
I've had the car 25k miles now
And it just started doing this . Put
3 bulbs in a month. Rainy Florida
Of course and water must be getting in. I guess I need a new
Housing ?

brucemac64

The drivers side parklight on mine kept blowing also. After replacing three of them I got mad...jacked the car up..took off the front tire and began taking off panels and finally got to the parking light assembly. Took it totally out of the car and there was a small hole burned in the top of the plastic housing and water would drip down on it and blow or bust the bulb. I simply got gasket sealant and plugged the hole and put it back in!!!!
That was 3 months ago and have driven in several rainstorms and no problem.....and best of all......NO COST FIX !!!!

Vetteman Jack

The solution is to either get a new housing or patch the current one like was mentioned above. Either way, perhaps look into getting new LED bulbs for the DRL/turn signals. The LEDs will burn much cooler and not affect the plastic housing. Just be sure you get a bypass module so you do not have any hyper flash issues.

donald4972

Sorry, I have pictures of this, but can't find them right now.

When you remove the 'housing' which holds the lights, you also have to remove the 'bracket', which holds the housing to the car. My memory is that it's just two screws, and a spring holding it to the car.

Interesting enough, there is a perfect hole, in the bracket, which is exactly over the top of the light bulb, and where the bulb melts the housing, creating the crack in the plastic. This crack, is what allows moisture from rain, or car wash , etc, into the housing. Then burnt blown bulb results.
I used a hole saw, and cut a perfect 1 inch hole in the housing (new one, or re-use the old one) where the crack is. Then, you buy at hardware store, an pvc end cap; about 1 inch diameter. Just the exact size so it fits through the hole in the bracket. (this is the type of end cap you would use to dead end a water pipe, if you had pvc type plumbing).

You JB Weld this pvc plastic end cap over the hole you cut, which is exactly where the bulb burnt through it. By doing this, you effectively, move the roof of the housing, directly over the bulb, an inch or more further away from the bulb. This clearance allows the heat to dissapate, and will not melt the end cap piece of pvc.
Now, your 'modified' bulb housing, fits too the bracket (which attaches to the car with two screws and a spring, exactly as before.

But now, the end cap you JB Welded onto it, fits up through the hole which is already there in the bracket. I think engineers which 'designed this part', left the hole there in the bracket, to allow the heat to leave the area from the bulb. But needed to raise the roof of the housing a little; which you have now done by adding the plastic pvc end cap.
I did this years ago on my C5 on both sides, and then helped another guy fix his this same way. Only one side had burnt through, but you could easily see where the other side had been too hot, and would eventually melt a crack in the bulb housing. So might as well modify/fix both, in the same manner. Buy two end caps, and some JB Weld, is all you need. A marker to mark the hole you are about to drill, to exactly match up with the hole in the bracket.

When you get the bracket and bulb housing out of the car, you'll easily see exactly what I"m trying to describe. And you 'll see the crack burnt through yours, as well, over the bulb.

It seems a permanent fix, has lasted a long time now. And it only takes an hour or two. It gets easier each time you do it, as with many things. But you want to give the weld, a little time to set up, before re-installing. I left mine over night.

If you only buy a new bulb housing, and replace it; you will eventually melt through it again, just as before.

If I can find the pictures I have, I'll post them up later.

Here is a link to the pictures I was referring to:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...r-lamps-2.html

Don

rws.1

you can also "patch" the whole with RTV outside and stick some heat shield tape on the underside of the housing.,