[Z06] The Oklahoma Z Build
Despite my not following closely I always knew of him and his ongoing support for racing and our hobby. He'd been around forever kind of like MCM and come up the same way.... From the bottom. So he always had my respect.
Now I am not one of the most rip roaring drag strip guys out there. Probably because I have to drive too far to get to one! So my right foot may not always do the man justice but I hope Kyle approves this apparent semi-clone I'm building of his Unicorn as I wager he'd be down with it.
It needs saying that rumors for whatever they're worth point to a sad end. If any of y'all find yourself needing to talk sh*t out, I'll pick up if you reach out. It has come close to happening once through the forum here before in fact and I was glad to be a hand.
Last edited by Tusc; May 7, 2026 at 12:31 AM.
The only headache was minor and that was that I needed to cut all the grounds to the bolt up near the passenger top corner. I'll have to remake them when I reinstall. Everything else was pretty straightforward.
I definitely have the space to run the 3lb air tank on one side of the rear. I had bought mounting options for the pump to also connect to the bracket around the tank but I don't think the space exists so I will keep them separated. With the battery intended for the passenger rear compartment I believe I will also put the pump to that same side to offset the overweight driver. I definitely want to keep the pump external from the cabin though I am considering options to pass the various hoses through so that service is easy if needed. Having the tank in the trunk would be a good move in that regard. It currently has a 12" bass tube taking up the center trunk space which came with the car. I'm not decided on keeping that or being rid of it yet. Most of me says I won't need it or want it, but I still want to hear it and judge for myself. So the 3lb AVS tank can go outside the driver trunk wall, down in the center trunk compartment, or even centrally mounted to the floor just behind the cabin separator while also serving as a hard mount to hold that separator in place. Any of these can work well. I still prefer the external concept, so I'll explore port management so that I might keep most working pieces aiming towards the center of the rear end where I can pull the license plate frame or a brake light for access.
Ports needed:
- psi switch
- water drain
- charge
- discharge
This tank has 6 ports. Two at either end, one centrally which becomes the drain, and another one horizontal at center to be capped or used for other. I am wondering if I can port the switch to the discharge fittings to make this all work.
The pump I'll make a bracket off the bumper for. I got enough tank, and an overpowered pump vs the demand with intent of minimal recharge needs. So maybe I flush it and recharge when I start the car be default and rely on the switch when driving. I may also wish to run a small gauge somewhere. The pump I know will be noisy. If it kicks on while driving I'd like to hear it as little as possible while still allowing it to breathe, so my thought it so box it in and sound deaden it while keeping on its spring loaded rubber mounts. There is an aluminum plate I have in mind which is extruded and has more air between each side than metal. I feel these plus some heavy butyl deadener may aid in reducing the noise and vibration a bit. I know I will still hear it but I'll feel better for the effort to reduce volume. The video below gives a rough estimation.... I wager mine would be somewhere between since I have a single 410ss pump.


