I don't think I understand the intent with what you're building. Will the compressor be running so long/hard that cooling off the air is beneficial to downstream consumption?

You already have ways to drain the tank, and unless the compressor is running close to 100% duty cycle, why is cooling the air off beneficial? You can't touch the lines with the bumper installed, and everything is far enough away from the bumper to avoid paint damage

For the intermittent duty of the system, I genuinely think foregoing the cooling is the appropriate path forward. Occam's Razor

Willing to be convinced otherwise

 

I won't try to convince you because I'm probably overcomplicating a simple system. I am sure it won't be run too often, or so I hope, but when it is it will probably go for a few minutes to raise 60psi up to 145. I just don't want hassles down range with the mac valves or gates if water becomes an issue on a car I intend to drive a ton with regular use.

The only things not guaranteed to be bulletproof are the many fittings along the way.

 

All the new fittings have now been attached and sealed save for the ends going out to the PTFE lines. Did the cad work for the mounts. Played with pump placement and I believe we have an optimal spot for the cooler.

Now to figure out HOW to mount the cooler in this odd spot with a mild standoff.

 

Let's see. What's new. I'm still figuring out how to mount the cooler and fan. I realize I should have bought a pre made fan combination with a shroud and built in mounting points. It looks like I now need to get some aluminum sheet and make exactly that and I still am not sure how to solidly secure that to this simple cooler. The fan is easy once the shroud is made and cut. More custom work eh?

I got the tank and the compressor mounts cut out and quickly cleaned up so I don't slice myself badly on them. Nothing artful as they will never be seen, just some solid units. The plan is to Rivnut the bumper in three places for each. Then drill out probably slightly larger holes in the plates to allow final mounting angle perfection.

I also got the Huron manifolds and the HPT turbine housings out of storage and ground off the edges where the white lightning ceramic coating from Swain Tech had formed ridges. Any seal should be unimpeded now.

One such seal will be oem GM/Delco MLS exhaust gaskets which I just purchased new as well. Forty bucks of security well spent. I wager the Huron manifolds are very straight and won't need anything like Cometic 30 or 45 unless I make some major tuning mistakes! Don't mess with what works still applies. I probably could have bought Mahle which is reputed to be comparable to oem for even less cost though.

The hope is that I can get the tank system largely mounted and lines routed, and then the battery setup also mounted and routed in the rear and have much or that wrapped up short of small details. One now annoying one being that cooler mount setup.

With those things achieved, attention goes back to the engine, buttoning it up, grinding and fixing pieces for the new exhaust setup and then mounting the turbos.

At that point momentum shifts into endgame. Wiring will be the biggest/slowest part. Fmic, charge tubes, air intake tubes, cooling system, suspension, brakes, fuel, A/C, intake/tb is ready to go, oil cooling and lines, Mac valves and air control.

I probably need to verify I have all the right needed vehicle speed, 2x turbine speed, 2x manifold psi sensors and get those ordered this week so they don't complicate installs down the road.

The basic mechanic work is easy and fast. The custom stuff is often the stumbler.

 

I invited a buddy to go hit a car show tonight. He got here and said instead let's put some time on the Z06, so he set about pre-wiring those bussed fuse and relay boxes and I got the compressor mount fitted, drilled and tapped. The more I looked at it I realized I don't need to rivnut or try to align anything. Once the plate is in place I'll just sink some M8 bolts straight through the plate and the bumper top and then nylock them from inside the bumper as long as a ratchet can reach the bolt heads inside. I might need to counter sink the plate. We'll see. I'm trying to make it simpler than getting a bunch of holes to line up with some rivnuts.

I also put what was to be final coats of black on the new accessory bracket for the Z06. And then when I moved the assembly to let it dry the cardboard shifted and messed up the only visible part. I'll let it cure, sand it and finish it up later.

 

Many times we tend to over complicate the simple things. I know for me, I get hung up on the nuance and then end up in analysis paralysis. At the end of the day, I should have just done the simple thing and been done. I also know the pain of the fresh paint thing...

 

I mean, my air tank could probably be a small pump on a 1 gallon tank. But now I've got a unit that can run a nail gun.

 

LOL, that is funny. It is just for the waste gates on the turbos, right? Because couldn't that just be a BOV?

 

No. Opposite function. I'm not trying to let the air out, but trying to air the domes up. Then I can run a low psi spring and cruise around with less boost and power but demand it by using the gates/tank to pressurize the domes. This also gives the ecu direct control for traction by gear.

 

Showing my ignorance of TT setups I guess!

 

It's been a learning experience here and will continue to be.

 

Here is that plate I tapped before going away. It looks to fit securely and I'll accept that as proof of concept. I left the ground bolt in place. The plate probably needs two or three bolts put through it and tb bumper to secure it and keep it from rattling. That will be next.

 

::Slaps bumper::

There. That's not going anywhere.

It is now a structural part of the car basically.

In the second picture can anyone help me identify the 3 cut wires and the plug from near the radio antenna?

 

Once I got into it I just stuck it through. Without exaggeration this plate and the tank had to go together and come apart nearly twenty-five times in order to get the fitment correct at each step. And I still think I'll need to pull the sensor off the regulator and rotate the regulator 90 degrees.... But I'll wait and see.

The tank is solid and the accessory clearance of the tub is absolutely minimal. Enough that any bounces won't knock them together. And I'll probably come back later and rig a support for the accessories now that the tank is locked in.

I also got the engine accessory bracket finished for now.

 

I know your weren't spraying that in the kitchen but were you using the oven to bake the finish?

 

Possibly not a bad idea, though my wife might strangle me. I put enough layers on that it will take a bit to cure in this relative humidity. The paint has a nice textured layer courtesy of all the pollen and wind outside but it passes QC for me. I just have a thing about refinishing these when I have the chance. I should do the one for the coupe as well but I really need to hit that one with a scrub brush and aluminum brightener to get a fair surface.

 

Grumble

I held the bumper foam support up and realized the regulator **** must be vertical to have clearance. I pulled the line sensor and plugged it, but in turning the regulator to face down I'm thinking the fitting is that slight bit loose where it will leak. I'm not eager to remove everything to be able to re-set and adjust all the attachments off the tank. It's going to sit for now. I might try to flip it 180 which I can do without yanking the assembly but I don't think it will tighten down that far.

Custom work is only worth it when it's completed.

Edit: a little anger got that thing rotated 180. If there are any leaks when I test the system it won't be from that junction. Now I just need to add a 6AN tee or extension with a 1/8" port to get the line pressure sensor in place.

The next headache is the cooler mounting and placement and if I can use/keep the fan for it or not.

I got an elbow to run the pump intake's air line straight up and then another elbow bulkhead to pass the line into the trunk. I can always reverse it later but I thought as an air source that filter will never need changing and if it ever does it is easily accessible to install it all to the top corner of the trunk where it won't be seen.

 

General puttering doing other things in the shop earlier and cleaning up, but then I got the remote tank purge solenoid rigged up with the air lines. I've got it riding on some orgavyl as a base so it doesn't make much vibration noise and has a soft base. I also wrapped it in enough epdm strip to make a cable clamp snug it up tight. Later I will drill the tub wall and use a washer/bolt combo to lock it in place.

If you see the lip on the tank mounting plate I had intended to have the solenoid placed there but I did not account for the tank dimensions and low height vs the solenoid so it was banished to the bumper.

I still need to figure out how to mount the cooler. I guess that's next.

PTC air hose is very easy to work with. Parts of the kit came with adapters for it, but I find that either dot approved parts are better or when they have the part sizes I need a brand on amazon called Tailonz has very strong springs and so far great engagement. I have them at the bottom of the tank and the inlet to the solenoid. The exit is a piece which came with the kit.